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Hello all, anyone ever seen / fitted one of these to your TR, any merit in fitting to original +ve earth side-screen car?

Appreciate better, more complex and therefore more expensive options are available... However, as I’ve got this to hand, I’m tempted to try.. would those of you in the know also fit the (10amp) inline fuse...always carrying a few spares in glove box an or door pocket?

Thanks in anticipation 

Tony

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Yes I've had one of those on a car Tony and it works just fine as a quick means of isolating the battery.  Also a modicum of security if you unscrew the screw-down part entirely and take it with you when you leave the car.  Slightly easier than taking the rotor arm.

The fuse is only necessary if you have some powered device which gets upset by complete loss of volts - any attempt to start the car with the connection removed will blow the fuse. 

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Yes, These can be put on either positive or negative side of the battery, but it's better to put it on whichever side is connected to the body (usually negative these days).

Ed

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Hi Tony,

if you also install it to avoid draining the battery, you should not install a fuse, since then the battery will still be drained. I am planning to install a switch that I can reach from inside the cabinet (through the bulkhead) but this is so much easier to do. So is on my list of things to do...

Cheers,

Waldi

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The negative side is probably safer because the isolator device has exposed metalwork. The battery voltage is low so the risk is not elective shock but the potential risk of something else in the engine bay making inadvertent contact with the isolator and causing a short (such as the battery hold down clamp). It's also worth remembering that with time some oxidation of the isolator contacts may occur. If you try and start the engine the starter motor will be sluggish as if the battery is flat. The cure is to unscrew the isolator and then tighten it up again.

David

 

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Thanks Rob, Ed, and yes Waldi, that was also my original idea (I got scared last year when setting up the carbs and ignition, draining the battery when the starter motor jammed in - first time I’ve ever had that in all the years of old cars).

This really should only take’5 mins’ to fit (and I won’t fit the fuse) basis any time I’m fiddling the bonnet will be up anyway and no need to find place to poke cable through bulkheads.

 

Much appreciated all

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9 minutes ago, WWT338J said:

The negative side is probably safer because the isolator device has exposed metalwork. The battery voltage is low so the risk is not elective shock but the potential risk of something else in the engine bay making inadvertent contact with the isolator and causing a short (such as the battery hold down clamp). It's also worth remembering that with time some oxidation of the isolator contacts may occur. If you try and start the engine the starter motor will be sluggish as if the battery is flat. The cure is to unscrew the isolator and then tighten it up again.

David

 

Thanks David, all good and valid points 

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2 minutes ago, ntc said:

Ever wondered why the key is red ? It should be on the positive lead

That’s what I had fitted on my 71 built, negative earth Elan Sprint.... However, if you look carefully at the photo, it’s blue and only (properly) fits on the negative battery lug..

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9 minutes ago, ntc said:

Ever wondered why the key is red ? It should be on the positive lead

It should be in the earth lead for the reason David outlined above.  Far too exposed to be on the live side, whichever polarity that might be.  

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One thing to realize about the common terminal mounted battery isolators under discussion is that despite the misleading color of the metal, these are not made of brass, but pot metal with a brass finish.  There may be exceptions, but ive never seen one.

Ed

Edited by ed_h
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26 minutes ago, Geko said:

They don't last long: the plastic knob and insulator disintegrate due to wear&tear, heat/cold. A gizmo that should be treated as such. Stay away

That was my experience too.

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I have used at least one for over 20 years without any problems. I agree fit in the negative lead and only use a fuse if you have to maintain a supply to electronic equipment you may have fitted. But remember if you do have electronic equipment that needs a constant supply it will drain the battery over time.

Dave

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10 hours ago, peter clarke said:

A big plus of fitting in the bulkhead is ease of operation (every time i park my car) and speed of operation. With smoke eascaping from under the dash do not panic....just find the key ...get out of the car...open the hood....isolate the battery.

On a sidescreen car thats not a quick option. by the time you locate the "T" key and get the bonnet open and propped it`ll be too late.

Stuart.

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Using Vaseline on the terminals and the screw thread of this Dis-Car-Nect device will assist in preventing corrosion.

And one should apply a smear of Vaseline to the terminals of the battery for the same reason.

Ian Cornish

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22 minutes ago, ntc said:

Wait till you do a battery drop test though one and watch it self destruct 

I had to look that one up. 

not sure it’ll work with our car batteries tho :ph34r:

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