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Front right wheel sticking out about an inch


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Hello everyone,

I've been having this issue since I bought by 76 TR6 here in America, the front right wheel extrudes out to the side for over an inch, as a result the tire rubs the right fender/wing in certain bumps and when I do right hand turns. I showed it to a local Triumph specialist and he advised that the frame is damaged and it needs to be replaced. I agreed, we went on to find a replacement frame, we put the donated frame under the car, but after putting it all back together, and after doing 4 tire alignment, the issue didn't go away. The wheel is still sticking out and I think it is worse.

Any ideas what that could be?

And would you pay the shop in full for this job?

Let me know please if you encountered this before and any ideas are appreciated

Best.

harraz

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PXL_20210312_153219645.MP.jpg

Edited by harraz
clarification
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  • harraz changed the title to Front right wheel sticking out about an inch

That bonnet gap also looks excessive 

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10 hours ago, barkerwilliams said:

Starting with the obvious, have you established that both wheel rims have the same offset?

i.e if front wheels swapped left to right on the car the right side of the car is still the problem.

Alan

 

 

Alan

We tried switching the wheels in the front and still offset.

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If the chassis was bent you would expect that the left side wheel would be further inwards, worth looking at the shim pack on the lower arm and comparing with left side also measure the length of top arm also how much of steering rack thread is showing, the company who changed the chassis should have given it a full check before starting such a big job with the cost that you have been asked to pay.

I would old off paying until they have put it right.

Keith

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Probably no shims on the lower inner wishbone mounts and the top inner wishbone mounting bracket on the wrong way round would give that alignment.Especially as the chassis has been changed. Do you have the turret cross bar fitted?

Stuart.

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On 3/14/2021 at 11:48 AM, Keith Warren said:

If the chassis was bent you would expect that the left side wheel would be further inwards, worth looking at the shim pack on the lower arm and comparing with left side also measure the length of top arm also how much of steering rack thread is showing, the company who changed the chassis should have given it a full check before starting such a big job with the cost that you have been asked to pay.

I would old off paying until they have put it right.

Keith

Hi Keith,

I'm now thinking that the original frame was fine, proof is that after it was replaced the issue wasn't resolved. I'm very upset about it and I think I will be paying for unnecessary work. Would you pay the mechanic in full if you were in this situation?

I think all the hours they spent to replace the frame were not worth it, especially if like everyone saying the issue is with chems and the right suspension in particular.

I think I should pay just for the new frame and any other work they did that I asked for. What do you think, same question to everyone interested in this thread. Don't get me wrong I want to be fair but at the same time I don't like what happened here

Best Regards,

harraz

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I guess in the end it depends what the real reason for the misalignment is. Until you know this it is hard to understand who is to blame.

If the chassis was OK but it is just an incorrectly assembled suspension then a speciallist should have picked this up. But that being said, if it was the direction of the upper wishbone mounts then this has been something that has confused many so if the garage was not a specialist it is easily missed.

If it is the spacers on the lower arms then they should have picked that up even if they were not specialist.

In the end however you have ended up with a refurbed chassis which is fab and if they can fix the wheel simply you could see it as a positive.

(I appreciate that this is a hard thing to do given what must have been a big price tag).

Cheers

Tim

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Haraz,

I would be very disappointed too. But before you can make a sound judgement, you first need confirmation of the cause.

Above several possibilities are given, next step is to check these, preferably together with the shop, and then decide what is required and what is reasonable.

You could ask a local TR technical person to help you if you are not sure how to assess the aspects listed above.

Just my 2 cts.

Waldi

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The upper wishbone mount can be fitted two ways, fitted the wrong way actually causes negative camber not positive, it might be worth seeing which way round they are fitted anyway and if both sides are the same way, plus what shims are fitted to the lower arms both sides. 

Gareth

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13 hours ago, Tony said:

Looks like positive camber which points to the top fulcrum pin being the wrong way round, possibly?

Or a bent vertical post.

As the chassis is a replacement this leads us to all the other bits that were bolted back on from the old ‘frame’

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Did they really change the complete chassis? all these bits would have had to be changed over, I would look very closely at the nuts and bolts, and pipes on the chassis to see if they had been disturbed,

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I know the CTM chassis reuses the front assembly including the turrets and cross members. Usually they have one on the shelf and you deliver your old chassis front end as an exchange. It is unlikely that the new chassis (if from CTM) would have the same issues as the original and I am pretty sure it is all jigged up before it is returned.

Tim

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