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Hi all

Can someone please advise the grade of Sikaflex to use in gluing the glass into channel? 255 & 256 seem candidates. I did message Allan a few days ago asking which he had used, but not se3n a reply yet. Thanks.

Ian

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On 5/2/2021 at 7:01 PM, meesonia said:

Hi all

Can someone please advise the grade of Sikaflex to use in gluing the glass into channel? 255 & 256 seem candidates. I did message Allan a few days ago asking which he had used, but not se3n a reply yet. Thanks.

Ian

Why do you need to do that, a new rubber and a slight crimping of the lower mounting channel is all you need.

Stuart.

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16 minutes ago, stuart said:

Why do you need to do that, a new rubber and a slight crimping of the lower mounting channel is all you need.

Stuart.

I have found that if the bottom channel is very rusty then it loses its stiffness and can't be crimped against the rubber.

The bottom channel is no longer stocked by Moss and probably all the others.

 

Roger

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25 minutes ago, RogerH said:

I have found that if the bottom channel is very rusty then it loses its stiffness and can't be crimped against the rubber.

The bottom channel is no longer stocked by Moss and probably all the others.

 

Roger

It seems Revingtons have a solution https://www.revingtontr.com/product/afp1015/name/door-glass-channel

Stuart.

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8 minutes ago, RogerH said:

That is interesting. The Rimmer channel is £4 and the Revington channel is £20.

 

Roger

Of course it is! ;):lol:

Stuart.

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Is it also because the Rimmer one is an MG Rover application. Even with the Revington one you still have to swap the Runner.

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So can anyone point me in the direction of a source for larger pivot pins for the regulator arms, I don't have much in the way of local machine shops to turn up such things near me. I can't decide whether to go for a pair of new regulators as they seem to get reasonable reviews or put up with these slightly sloppy ones which are otherwise pretty sound

Many thanks

David 

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So can anyone point me in the direction of a source for larger pivot pins for the regulator arms, I don't have much in the way of local machine shops to turn up such things near me. I can't decide whether to go for a pair of new regulators as they seem to get reasonable reviews or put up with these slightly sloppy ones which are otherwise pretty sound

Many thanks

David 

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10 hours ago, qkingston said:

So can anyone point me in the direction of a source for larger pivot pins for the regulator arms, I don't have much in the way of local machine shops to turn up such things near me. I can't decide whether to go for a pair of new regulators as they seem to get reasonable reviews or put up with these slightly sloppy ones which are otherwise pretty sound

Many thanks

David 

Hi David,

I'm not sure if anybody has ever changed the pivot pins (the hinges at the ends of the arms). 

If you are referring to the central pivot pin (650236) could it be the hole that is opening up. This could be welded back to shape (maybe)

The new Bastuk regulators work well but the four attachment screws are M8

 

Roger

 

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1 hour ago, RogerH said:

The new Bastuk regulators work well but the four attachment screws are M8

 

Roger

 

And the stub for the winder handle is also slightly shorter which makes it "Interesting" to get the securing pin in.

Stuart.

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Thanks chaps, I spoke to the body shop at TRGB and they advised that re-peening the pivot pins (not the central one - thanks Roger) is the most effective route they have found, so I'm going to give that a try first

David

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Hopefully, this is an easy one....the pivot bolt on the window regulator has a number of washers on it; mine has (from the head end)flat-spring-2xflat, is that correct and how many of those fit between the regulator and the back of the door panel? The manuals seem to suggest less washers than that. Many thanks

David

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ok thanks Roger, I remember a post a while ago commenting on how important it was to get the correct washers in here, but couldn't find it :)

David

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  • 1 month later...

Great thread - this is my today-issue (fitted hard top and windows are gappy):).

I understand that the TR5 winder mechanism is different to the TR4/4A .... does anyone know what the difference is and whether swapping a TR4 mechanism for a TR5 would offer any additional adjustment?

Thanks all.

Robert

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2 hours ago, rjs993 said:

Great thread - this is my today-issue (fitted hard top and windows are gappy):).

I understand that the TR5 winder mechanism is different to the TR4/4A .... does anyone know what the difference is and whether swapping a TR4 mechanism for a TR5 would offer any additional adjustment?

Thanks all.

Robert

You cant. The mounts are different, you need to make sure your car has the right windows anyway, often TR5/6 windows got fitted years ago as there was no availability of the correct TR4/4a ones. They sit wrong.

Stuart.

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Interesting - thanks. 

I wonder if that is the problem i.e. the window glass I currently have fitted is wrong (having been fitted when there was no availability of TR4/4A spec glass). Is there some way to tell by looking at the glass that is fitted whether it is TR4/4A or 5/6 (other than that it does not fit properly)?

 

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5 hours ago, rjs993 said:

Interesting - thanks. 

I wonder if that is the problem i.e. the window glass I currently have fitted is wrong (having been fitted when there was no availability of TR4/4A spec glass). Is there some way to tell by looking at the glass that is fitted whether it is TR4/4A or 5/6 (other than that it does not fit properly)?

 

With the hard surrey top on my TR4a it was obvious that there were terrible gaps at the top and the windows were at the wrong angle.  When my car was over at TRGB for a full engine rebuild I got them to check the windows for me.  They replaced the glass with new TR4A ones as mine had obviously had TR5/6 windows fitted at some time.  They are now in the words of Gary at TRGB the best fiiting TR4(a) window he has ever seen.  They now fit perfectly, I'm well pleased.

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