meesonia Posted May 2, 2021 Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 Hi all Can someone please advise the grade of Sikaflex to use in gluing the glass into channel? 255 & 256 seem candidates. I did message Allan a few days ago asking which he had used, but not se3n a reply yet. Thanks. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted May 2, 2021 Report Share Posted May 2, 2021 Ian....be careful and check that your glass fits perfectly at the front screen and B pillar before you sikaflex it in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 On 5/2/2021 at 7:01 PM, meesonia said: Hi all Can someone please advise the grade of Sikaflex to use in gluing the glass into channel? 255 & 256 seem candidates. I did message Allan a few days ago asking which he had used, but not se3n a reply yet. Thanks. Ian Why do you need to do that, a new rubber and a slight crimping of the lower mounting channel is all you need. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 16 minutes ago, stuart said: Why do you need to do that, a new rubber and a slight crimping of the lower mounting channel is all you need. Stuart. I have found that if the bottom channel is very rusty then it loses its stiffness and can't be crimped against the rubber. The bottom channel is no longer stocked by Moss and probably all the others. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 25 minutes ago, RogerH said: I have found that if the bottom channel is very rusty then it loses its stiffness and can't be crimped against the rubber. The bottom channel is no longer stocked by Moss and probably all the others. Roger It seems Revingtons have a solution https://www.revingtontr.com/product/afp1015/name/door-glass-channel Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 Well spotted Stuart, They could come in very handy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 3 hours ago, RogerH said: Well spotted Stuart, They could come in very handy. Roger Also at Rimmers but you need to drill off the spot welded brackets. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-AFP1015 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 3 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Also at Rimmers but you need to drill off the spot welded brackets. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-AFP1015 That is interesting. The Rimmer channel is £4 and the Revington channel is £20. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 8 minutes ago, RogerH said: That is interesting. The Rimmer channel is £4 and the Revington channel is £20. Roger Of course it is! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
meesonia Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 Is it also because the Rimmer one is an MG Rover application. Even with the Revington one you still have to swap the Runner. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 4, 2021 Report Share Posted May 4, 2021 Could be had even cheaper. http://mgrovergenuine.co.uk/genuine-mg-rover-parts/mg-rover-afp1015-channel-glass-door/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 10 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Could be had even cheaper. http://mgrovergenuine.co.uk/genuine-mg-rover-parts/mg-rover-afp1015-channel-glass-door/ Thanks Pete. More spares in the garage. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 So can anyone point me in the direction of a source for larger pivot pins for the regulator arms, I don't have much in the way of local machine shops to turn up such things near me. I can't decide whether to go for a pair of new regulators as they seem to get reasonable reviews or put up with these slightly sloppy ones which are otherwise pretty sound Many thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted May 5, 2021 Report Share Posted May 5, 2021 So can anyone point me in the direction of a source for larger pivot pins for the regulator arms, I don't have much in the way of local machine shops to turn up such things near me. I can't decide whether to go for a pair of new regulators as they seem to get reasonable reviews or put up with these slightly sloppy ones which are otherwise pretty sound Many thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 6, 2021 Report Share Posted May 6, 2021 10 hours ago, qkingston said: So can anyone point me in the direction of a source for larger pivot pins for the regulator arms, I don't have much in the way of local machine shops to turn up such things near me. I can't decide whether to go for a pair of new regulators as they seem to get reasonable reviews or put up with these slightly sloppy ones which are otherwise pretty sound Many thanks David Hi David, I'm not sure if anybody has ever changed the pivot pins (the hinges at the ends of the arms). If you are referring to the central pivot pin (650236) could it be the hole that is opening up. This could be welded back to shape (maybe) The new Bastuk regulators work well but the four attachment screws are M8 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 6, 2021 Report Share Posted May 6, 2021 1 hour ago, RogerH said: The new Bastuk regulators work well but the four attachment screws are M8 Roger And the stub for the winder handle is also slightly shorter which makes it "Interesting" to get the securing pin in. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted May 6, 2021 Report Share Posted May 6, 2021 Thanks chaps, I spoke to the body shop at TRGB and they advised that re-peening the pivot pins (not the central one - thanks Roger) is the most effective route they have found, so I'm going to give that a try first David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted May 7, 2021 Report Share Posted May 7, 2021 Hopefully, this is an easy one....the pivot bolt on the window regulator has a number of washers on it; mine has (from the head end)flat-spring-2xflat, is that correct and how many of those fit between the regulator and the back of the door panel? The manuals seem to suggest less washers than that. Many thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 7, 2021 Report Share Posted May 7, 2021 Hi David, there should be a plain washer between the Thackery double washer and the regulator. A plain washer under the nut. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted May 7, 2021 Report Share Posted May 7, 2021 ok thanks Roger, I remember a post a while ago commenting on how important it was to get the correct washers in here, but couldn't find it David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Great thread - this is my today-issue (fitted hard top and windows are gappy):). I understand that the TR5 winder mechanism is different to the TR4/4A .... does anyone know what the difference is and whether swapping a TR4 mechanism for a TR5 would offer any additional adjustment? Thanks all. Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 2 hours ago, rjs993 said: Great thread - this is my today-issue (fitted hard top and windows are gappy):). I understand that the TR5 winder mechanism is different to the TR4/4A .... does anyone know what the difference is and whether swapping a TR4 mechanism for a TR5 would offer any additional adjustment? Thanks all. Robert You cant. The mounts are different, you need to make sure your car has the right windows anyway, often TR5/6 windows got fitted years ago as there was no availability of the correct TR4/4a ones. They sit wrong. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 Interesting - thanks. I wonder if that is the problem i.e. the window glass I currently have fitted is wrong (having been fitted when there was no availability of TR4/4A spec glass). Is there some way to tell by looking at the glass that is fitted whether it is TR4/4A or 5/6 (other than that it does not fit properly)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin Symonds Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 5 hours ago, rjs993 said: Interesting - thanks. I wonder if that is the problem i.e. the window glass I currently have fitted is wrong (having been fitted when there was no availability of TR4/4A spec glass). Is there some way to tell by looking at the glass that is fitted whether it is TR4/4A or 5/6 (other than that it does not fit properly)? With the hard surrey top on my TR4a it was obvious that there were terrible gaps at the top and the windows were at the wrong angle. When my car was over at TRGB for a full engine rebuild I got them to check the windows for me. They replaced the glass with new TR4A ones as mine had obviously had TR5/6 windows fitted at some time. They are now in the words of Gary at TRGB the best fiiting TR4(a) window he has ever seen. They now fit perfectly, I'm well pleased. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted June 11, 2021 Report Share Posted June 11, 2021 Thanks Colin. I am beginning to feel that I have the same problem and that new glass - maybe even a trip to see Gary - is the only solution! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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