WD TR4 Engine

[ctc77965o]

 

Edited March 10, 2021 by ctc77965o

[stuart]

I wouldnt have bothered with that water pump.

Stuart.

[Lebro]

If only it was that simple !

Strange how the rear crank seal half on the block got suddenly changed for the blue Bastuk one, (note no mandrel used), & then when he was putting the flywheel back on the seal halves were back to being the original ST ones !

Still, a nice little film.

Bob.

[barrytr4]

Hi Mates--Another thing ( yes, I know it's easy to criticise  when someone else is doing the work) but the way he put the main bearing/ block  felt seal placed along the grove would pour out oil, it needs to be soaked in gasket goo and hammered in solid----Barry

[RogerH]

The whole show was put together just to show what was going on.

Everything nice and clean so you can see.

For instance he didn't mention about about bonding the ends of the lip seal together.

If the felt seals were fitted properly you wouldn't have seen them.

It would have been nice if he had explained these things rather than gloss over them.

TV makes what we do look like child's play when we know that even the professionals sweat and curse when working.

 

Roger

[Chris Hubball]

Hi Stuart

I have one of those uprated water pumps from Racetorations sitting on the shelf never got round to fitting it ,I am just about to change my antifreeze and water and thought about fitting it are there any issues with them ?

Cheers Chris

[stuart]

1 minute ago, Chris Hubball said:

Hi Stuart

I have one of those uprated water pumps from Racetorations sitting on the shelf never got round to fitting it ,I am just about to change my antifreeze and water and thought about fitting it are there any issues with them ?

Cheers Chris

They tend to just stir the water rather than move it, They need careful fitment due to clearance problems as well, I wouldnt bother, if the rest of your cooling system is up to snuff then you dont need it.

Stuart.

[barrytr4]

Hi Chums--I know it's only "entertainment" and a "good show" but see how he put the cam chainwheel  without a care, not bothering to check the timing marks ? that's because they are  not there, the next time you the cam gear  it's flipped over to it's right position, I recon' someone else  is  rebuilding that engine, the right way? 

Barry

[TR4Tony VC]

Hi all

I did a lot of work with a flow meter in the water circuit on my TR4 and the outcome was that a nicely toleranced standard pattern pump in a decently fitting housing did the most efficient job in moving water round the system, especially as you got up the rpm range. The multi blade pumps caused a lot of cavitation and did not pump as much water round the circuit as the four blade.

The issue with the pumps available at the time was the quality of the bearing inside which tended to fail quickly if the shaft put any load on them, usually because the fan belt was either too slack or too tight. The thin belt conversion helped with this but I had a batch of pumps remachined and harder shafts and bigger bearings put into them. They lasted very well and in the case of those I kept, still do the job and I can get spares to rebuild them.

I would tend to stick with the standard four blade pump but I would try the alloy water pump housing as they don’t tend to corrode as badly. many of the cast iron ones I’ve seen are pitted on the mating surfaces and around the aperture for the blade and it’s the good fit there that largely governs the rate of flow back into the water circuit, so if the housing is corroded replacing that will do far more than anything else.

regards

Tony