Motorsport Mickey Posted March 10, 2021 Report Share Posted March 10, 2021 Stick a warning buzzer on it, you don't miss the noise and you don't have to bother with scanning gauges or seeing a warning light. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted March 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 8 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said: Stick a warning buzzer on it, you don't miss the noise and you don't have to bother with scanning gauges or seeing a warning light. Mick Richards I thought about that after a PM suggestion Mick, but don’t want a buzzer sounding every time I start the car/ ignition on. how do you wire it so it doesn’t sound with just ign on or cranking until above min pressure on the sender. ?? this type of thing ? LED Red Flash Alarm Indicator Signal Warning Light W/Buzzer 80dB DC12V or AC220V https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273557793306 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 11, 2021 Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 (edited) You could always wire it through a relay to disconnect the ignition circuit, or an electric fuel pump if oil pressure was too low. Would cut the engine out. This method was used by major car manufacturers to make their more delicate cars 'driver proof' Think MG Metro Turbo here. No idea how you wire it so the car will start though. Peter W Edited March 11, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted March 11, 2021 Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Hamish said: I thought about that after a PM suggestion Mick, but don’t want a buzzer sounding every time I start the car/ ignition on. how do you wire it so it doesn’t sound with just ign on or cranking until above min pressure on the sender. ?? this type of thing ? LED Red Flash Alarm Indicator Signal Warning Light W/Buzzer 80dB DC12V or AC220V https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273557793306 The standard low oil pressure warning sensors on car (lights etc) work only when very low pressures are experienced (sub 5lbs pressure for example) and having a light showing oil pressure fluctuations at higher pressures is surprisingly annoying. The surge of oil from braking and cornering in competition even with a fully engineered "swinging gate" large capacity winged" works sump on the Rover V8 for example will still allow a flickering light on extreme high g right handers (Redgate corner Donington) with a 28 lbs sensor in place. As with anything you learn to ignore it, the lowered pressures only being momentary and experience showed at the end of season engine rebuilds that the crankshaft bearings did not suffer from the low pressures experienced. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted March 12, 2021 Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 So what pressure should we expect on a Tr5/6 engine at hot tick over ? mine drops to approx 10psi but no sign of the light flickering . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 My TRE pressure sender (and adapter) is set to 20psi. so the light will come on as a warning at or below that pressure. normal it 50 idle 70 when getting a move on. this is my 3a tho. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trumpy Posted March 12, 2021 Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 My 5 achieves that when cold I was told to expect a minimum 10psi / 1k rpm hot. Not sure how acurate a 50yr old gauge is tho’ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted March 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 Ok guys I thought I would provide an update for you as it’s all fitted and working. I made this short video to explain what I did. This doesn’t mean it correct !! I didn’t want a buzzer every time I started the car or just had the ignition on so left it out. the light is only a small led but seems bright enough video’d using an led work light and phone light as the hardtop is on and it was a bit dark. any ignition live feed would do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brenda Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 Well done good video, all we need is for lock down to be over and we can get out for proper runs out, not just to a shop for some goods that we don’t really need. Mike Redrose group Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted March 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 48 minutes ago, brenda said: Well done good video, all we need is for lock down to be over and we can get out for proper runs out, not just to a shop for some goods that we don’t really need. Mike Redrose group Oh so true !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 22, 2021 Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 Good video Hamish, I'm impressed with the speed with which your oil pressure coimes up just on the starter motor alone. Mine takes a little while longer. And on the subject of oil pressure, my engine has been recently rebuilt and when I initially start it the oil pressure goes up to about 60 psi and stays there, then as the oil warms up, it climbs to about 70/75 psi at 2000 rpm before dropping to about 55 at idle. Does anyone know why it appears to develop a higher oil pressure once the oil has been thoroughly warmed through? I have had the pressure release valve out and there is no evidence of anything sticking. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted March 25, 2021 Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 On 3/22/2021 at 11:07 PM, Ian Vincent said: Good video Hamish, I'm impressed with the speed with which your oil pressure coimes up just on the starter motor alone. Mine takes a little while longer. And on the subject of oil pressure, my engine has been recently rebuilt and when I initially start it the oil pressure goes up to about 60 psi and stays there, then as the oil warms up, it climbs to about 70/75 psi at 2000 rpm before dropping to about 55 at idle. Does anyone know why it appears to develop a higher oil pressure once the oil has been thoroughly warmed through? I have had the pressure release valve out and there is no evidence of anything sticking. Rgds Ian Funnily enough I get exactly the same indication from the pressure gauge on my 4A Ian, ~60-65psi after initial start rising to 70-75psi at 2000rpm and staying there. At hot idle however I see about 20psi, nothing like your figure. However my idle speed is set as low as I can get it, around 700rpm, consistent with even running and suspect yours is probably higher giving more pressure. I've never been concerned by the phenomenon you described but like you would be interested in an explanation. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 A word of warning. all this cranking with the LT lead off the coil both oil light test and post new sump fitting testing - drenched my plugs. came to start it on Sunday and it was not firing at all, thus plugs getting even wetter-You know that feeling - you have done loads of little jobs. Oil warning light- rad fan warning light, new sump. Oil pump gauze repair etc then it doesn’t start Damn it- Swapped everything ignition wise I even had a spare cap and bright red accuspark leads - but it was the plugs- once changed - leaving the garish cap and leads on - it fired and the richness smoke quickly cleared. monday fresh v power fuel and tyre pressures adjusted - the first drive since the <1mile drive to mot station and back 20/11/20. the car went brilliantly. just need to watch out for soaked plugs !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 Whenever I crank the engine on the starter with no intention of starting it (e.g. compression test or to build pressure after an oil filter change) I always first remove all the plugs. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 2 hours ago, tim hunt said: Whenever I crank the engine on the starter with no intention of starting it (e.g. compression test or to build pressure after an oil filter change) I always first remove all the plugs. Tim Gold Star and a tick for Tim, and all others who follow this simple and time served practice. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 well i know NOW !!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 10 minutes ago, Hamish said: well i know NOW !!!! And to go with that I take off the "King" lead also, I don't fancy an errant spark between the edges of the spark plug leads and an earth somewhere in the neighbourhood of fuel vapour rich air being ejected from the cylinders. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 It may surprise you the plugs may be knackerd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted April 6, 2021 Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 45 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said: And to go with that I take off the "King" lead also, I don't fancy an errant spark between the edges of the spark plug leads and an earth somewhere in the neighbourhood of fuel vapour rich air being ejected from the cylinders. Mick Richards I just remove the ignition feed from the coil, easier than removing the king lead on my car. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted April 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 46 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said: And to go with that I take off the "King" lead also, I don't fancy an errant spark between the edges of the spark plug leads and an earth somewhere in the neighbourhood of fuel vapour rich air being ejected from the cylinders. Mick Richards Does removing the LT to the +of the coil do the same thing ? 27 minutes ago, ntc said: It may surprise you the plugs may be knackerd they are in the bin now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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