kevine Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Went for a drive today after about a 3 week gap from previously starting, all good. Left on drive for a couple of hours and tried to start the engine and will not start but turns over, believe fuel starvation. All other electrics seem to be ok Tank just over 1/4 full ( dipped with stick to confirm) Normally when I put ignition on you can hear the pump (noise) however whilst ignition on no sound of the pump, however the car turns over. Used a test light at the fuse and all seems good. Power getting to the relay switch + Battery shows 12+ volts. I also changed the relay as I had a spare. Not tried to check fuel coming out of tank at this stage. Any thoughts. Running a Moss type Bosch pump fitted about 5 years ago, but the pump has always been quite noisy. Thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 (edited) If the pump isnt running then i’d : 1, check the grey device in the engine bay that is designed to cut the fuel in the event of a crash, inertia switch. These do fail but can be reset by pressing the button on the top and if that doesnt work by dismantling,cleaning and reassembling 2, check power is getting to the pump 3, tap pump with hammer, more in hope than expectation ! let us know how you get on .... steve Edited March 7, 2021 by Steves_TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kevine Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Hi Steve Thank you so much. Been out to garage and it appears it was the inertia switch. Very Happy. Looking at it is it difficult to strip down and clean? Also just goes to show how useful the forum is. Thanks again for posting Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 http://www.grampianstags.net/inertia.htm#:~:text=Inertia Switch&text=The Inertia Switch sits in,thus preventing a serious fire. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scotland Director Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Just to add, When I bought my ‘6 a couple of years ago the previous owner had just fitted BOSCH pumps and just used the old wiring, the car was a bit intermittent sometime you’d have the pumps running and sometimes not. The original grey inertia switch had got burned by having the extra current running through them, apparently uses more current than the original Lucas windscreen effort. so, I added thicker wire to the rear and fitted a relay to control it, And, the high current feed no longer goes through the inertia switch, if you know what I mean, I did read that you have a rely but maybe the full current is still going through the inertia switch. Hopefully that makes some kind of sense ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 Glad you found the problem Kevin the inertia switch is very simple , as per the link Alan posted. my tr6 also has a bosch pump wired when i bought it via the original grey inertia switch, it worked fine for 15 years that way, but i did then upgrade to a relay driven arrangement so the inertia switch just runs the relay. Been like that for 5 years no problems. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom B Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 My old fuel pump when failing was drawing ~11+ amps. This was replaced. I found that the inertia switch was completely melted inside so replaced with Rimmer supplied alternative. Fitted a fused relay as above and high capacity wiring directly to the pump with no intermediate connectors. My old TR6 has a 30A connector block which was useful as the supply. Note that the new inertia switch has a trip tell-tale which the poster would appreciate. All the best Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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