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I intend to inject Waxoyl into the chassis members and sills of my TR5 restoration project, wherever access is available, using a Shultz gun with a flexible tube with end spray nozzle.

Can anybody with experience of this job, which I envisage being messy, give any hints of how to avoid one unholy mess and what pressure to use from the compressor please?

Dave McD

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Hi Dave

I used a gun with what looked like a nail in the end of a transparent pipe, pressurized from my compressor.  This gave a circular spray of the waxoil at right angles to the pipe.

There are lots of holes in the chassis and you can drill holes in the box sections of the bodywork like A and B posts. Then spray into the box sections of body and chassis with gay abandonment as the waxoil will creep once injected.

This was some years ago and worked as far as I can tell as I am still driving the car around. Mind you if you try welding the chassis later it does get a bit smoky!

MichaelH

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Gave up using waxoil donkeys years ago as I found rust would travel behind it and lift it off.

Also gave up using even the most highly recommended newer types of cavity wax as of about 4 years ago. I used this on a Stag and found the door skins blistering along the seams this year.

Just use engine oil on everything now and give a squirt into the chassis and box sections every couple of years. Rebuilt my TR 29 years ago and door bottoms and chassis are still rust free.

Only downside is it wicks through all the seams and needs wiping off every so often. When it stops wicking out it will need another squirt or two, but would never use anything else now

Neil

 

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I found the same problem with Waxoyl.

 it had come off in sheets in both sills.  You could see where new Waxoyl had been put on, in previous years,  the old but the old had come adrift.

I now use Dinitrol 3125HS - less mess, more control and the aerosol spout can get into awkward places quite easily.

 

Roger

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Dave 

ive done the same job as above, but taped the many holes up and opened them up one at a time to cut down the spray out from too many apertures. If you start at one end and work your way along each leg you can do it without much mess. Infilling the cross tube etc by the same method. I also used clingfish to wrap it to stop the drips - same job with the sills until it hardens up a bit.

regards

Tony 

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Hi Dave

I found best to spray when the waxoyl is warm at a round 50psi also only used when the metal is free from rust in the first place as already mentioned place a sheet down first then leave for a day or so to slightly harden there's probably better options like Roger uses but I have plenty of this to use up  

Chris  

  

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+1 for Dinitrol. Easier to apply and lasts longer. The gun and lance from Rejel works well and not expensive. I think about 40 psi is plenty.

Jerry

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Tape the holes where gravity is at play. You would need to identify and tag the location of the internal baffles.  I used Sikaguard Cavity Wax which doesn't spill too much and solidify quickly. Just do not overfill.

Screenshot 2021-03-03 at 11.48.53.png

Screenshot 2021-03-03 at 11.54.34.png

Edited by Geko
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I’ve used rattle cans too, it is less messy than the old compressor gun I had. They give a much lower flow, with a very fine droplet size. 4-6 cans it what I used. I will repeat it one more time, just in case I missed some surfaces on the first time (during my restoration). I did the chassis while the body was off, that was easy.

Maybe my experience has to do with the quality of that gun, bought it 30 years ago.

Waldi

 

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Dont know what you lot have been doing but Ive never had any problem with Waxoyl coming off, I use a dedicated gun with a lance that has a proper nozzle on the end with radial holes never bother to warm the Waxoyl just give the can a good shake and spray at about 80psi that way you get good distribution and being cold it stays where you put it, When I had to dismantle the whole side of My 4a after accident damage there was no rot at all having been thoroughly Waxoyled when it was re-built nearly thirty years ago and topped up every few years since. One thing you must remember is dont kink the lance!

Stuart.

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After using Waxoyl for 30 years or so on various projects I gave up a few years ago as it stinks especially if thinned with white spirit and dribbles out everywhere when the sun heats up the body etc.

Now use Bilt Hamber S50 cavity wax did my bare chassis at the weekend two aerosols with the supplied flexible tubes no mess or smell seems to work ok. As mentioned old engine oil is the best of the bunch as where it had leaked on my chassis the metal was like new underneath just messy, I'd probably use it but the other half would be moaning about the mess on block paving for sure!

Andy

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Back to my original suggestion then....

Direct a long hose from the rocker cover breather at or into the chassis/body and let the engine corrosion proof the body work while you drive.

I'll get my anorak.

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I did a lot of research into the different products for rust proofing a long time ago. Bilt Hamber has proof from University research that Dynax S-50  not only cures existing rust but also prevents future  potential problems. I used it on my chassis and it is all looking very solid.  The aerosol comes with a long lance and a special fitting on the end which sprays in a circular move as you slowly pull it out ' It also comes in a 750 ml aerosol so you  have plenty. They also have a product for sealing under wings and bodywork dynax UB. This remains flexible and seals the inside of the wings using a brush.

When I injected my chassis I was able to borrow a 4 post lift and laid out a large sheet of damp proof membrane. After very careful and slow operation there was only one small puddle on the ground. Hands, gloves and overalls were all untouched.

Of course you do not really know until you can look inside the chassis in the future.

Richard & B

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After all my suspension upgrade work I took the opportunity to cover the suspension ( protecting the brakes) and most of the under body of my 3a with Dynax UC I bought it I’m May last year and the slightly Matt finish is still good and hasn’t picked up road sand and grit. 
time will tell as to longevity but I keep an aerosol to hand for any touch ups after jobs on car. 

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5 hours ago, stuart said:

Dont know what you lot have been doing but Ive never had any problem with Waxoyl coming off, I use a dedicated gun with a lance that has a proper nozzle on the end with radial holes never bother to warm the Waxoyl just give the can a good shake and spray at about 80psi that way you get good distribution and being cold it stays where you put it, When I had to dismantle the whole side of My 4a after accident damage there was no rot at all having been thoroughly Waxoyled when it was re-built nearly thirty years ago and topped up every few years since. One thing you must remember is dont kink the lance!

Stuart.

Hi Stuart

Is this the kind of gun you’d use? It operates at 80psi and has flexible extensions . I’ve seen this same kit advertised for over £80!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B082NZV7JH?tag=mcdiscountcouk0b-21&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

 

Kevin

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No mine screws to a metal cannister that was originally used for stonechip, in the old days stonechip used to come in metal 1ltr containers and I retained a couple for that purpose, its similar to this but better made (Ive had it more than 30yrs). thing to look for is a bigger pickup pipe than a stonechip gun. Waxoyl gun

Stuart.

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I used to use a Schutz gun like Stuarts one above, found it was ok for surface spraying, but with the flexible extension it struggled to spray the waxoil out properly.  I now have one like in the picture above, the difference being that the Schutz one uses suction to pull up the waxoil, whereas the other one actually pressurizes the contents, & pushes it into the airstream.

Bob.

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32 minutes ago, Lebro said:

I used to use a Schutz gun like Stuarts one above, found it was ok for surface spraying, but with the flexible extension it struggled to spray the waxoil out properly.  I now have one like in the picture above, the difference being that the Schutz one uses suction to pull up the waxoil, whereas the other one actually pressurizes the contents, & pushes it into the airstream.

Bob.

Thats why you need a dedicated Waxoyl one with the bigger pickup pipe, the one I have you cant buy anymore they seem to just sell the standard Shutz gun type now which has a smaller sized pickup pipe.

Stuart.

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Hi Dave

i have only used waxoil so cannot comment on other products. You may be a bit further down the line for this but i waxoil the bare [ no suspension fitted ] chassis so when injecting you can turn it over / on it's side / on end to ensure that it soaks into ever possible crevice . Would do it outside the workshop re mess and silicons getting into other parts.

i have used the hand pump from waxoil with the long flexible tube and various guns . Yes i always heat it up so that it runs into every crevice and would consider thinning depending how it flows.

CTM used waxoil as an option and did it out in the yard.

 

Roy

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4 hours ago, roy53 said:

Hi Dave

i have only used waxoil so cannot comment on other products. You may be a bit further down the line for this but i waxoil the bare [ no suspension fitted ] chassis so when injecting you can turn it over / on it's side / on end to ensure that it soaks into ever possible crevice . Would do it outside the workshop re mess and silicons getting into other parts.

i have used the hand pump from waxoil with the long flexible tube and various guns . Yes i always heat it up so that it runs into every crevice and would consider thinning depending how it flows.

CTM used waxoil as an option and did it out in the yard.

 

Roy

Thats what I did, diluted with  5% white spirit, waxoyl can heated in a bucket of hot water, and the chassis in full summer sun. Have also used the hand pump.

No good doing it at this time of year, it will freeze on cold metal and fail to flow into spot-welded seams.

Peter

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Lots of answers to my initial enquiry, thanks everyone.

It's a new (10 or 12 years ago) CTM chassis that I've had stood in the garage waiting to eventually get round to the TR5 restoration. On closer inspection, CTM cut down on the number of holes in the chassis compared to the original factory units so entry points are fairly limited; but then so are the potential points for water entry.

Yes Roy, I'm well past the "unattached suspension" point. Couldn't envisage turning it over now. Should have asked the question earlier because I had it on a rotisserie to do the painting.

I'll see what I can inject in next few days after trying a few different pressures/warm/cold into plastic bottles or similar.

Dave McD

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I bought some paint for my TR on Friday and the Paint Store had some information on Fertan. I took away a booklet and this product is a German company. They have a lot of research and a number of products. 
I used Bilt Hamber which has a similar background. It seems as if Waxoyl has been overtaken by new research and development. If you are planning rust proofing maybe there is more homework to be done. 
good luck. Richard& B

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