russellbaldwin Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Hi 28 years after purchase I've finished the restoration of the hardtop which has followed me from house to house propped against a garage wall! It's now repaired, painted, trimmed (there's a few lessons there!) and it's time to go back on the car. I've fitted new seals to the underside - the large one that fits in the channel under the rear window - and the two side ones which fit on the inside lip under the side windows - and the square buffer at the B post. The problem is that the roof seems to sit on the painted rear lip across the scuttle and sides - the rubbers seem to do little to prevent a paint to paint surface for the hood to bolt down to. It would make sense if there was a seal that ran around the lip - and then the roof would tighten against that - but this doesn't appear in the Triumph fitting instructions - or on the parts diagrams. Has anyone had similar experience? Any advice? thanks, Russell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
saffrontr Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Hi Russell, The hardtop is adjusted by the two adjuster screws (no 36) into which the set screws ( no 39) into the rear deck go through. These adjusters are to be set to give at least 1/10" clearance between the hardtop and rear deck after tightening of all of the hardtop fixings so a few trial fits are required. The 1/10" to my my mind is too tight and for my hardtop I set it more generous than that. The rubber buffers under the buttresses are only there to prevent damage in case of body flex and should be set clear of the deck once everything has been tightened. If you are concerned about damage to the paint between the adjuster screw and deck lip then you could use a rubber washer on the underside of the adjuster. Derek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
russellbaldwin Posted February 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Thanks Derek So the weight of the rear is largely taken by set screw 39 - the top isn't meant to sit on the scuttle - and the tolerance is governed by the adjuster screw 36 - that now makes sense I have difficulty getting the 39 screw to clear the screen and have a chance of aligning to the threads on the scuttle. I've had more success using a longer bolt from underneath so I can get the hardtop to seat - I should still be able to use the set screw - just need to make sure the domed head nut have sufficient capacity for adjustment. Thanks for your help, Russell Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AdrianH Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Getting the rear most screws in is a bit of a faff – I ground the ends of mine into 'cones' a bit like the screws used to fasten the seat runners onto the floor. Before I did that I found it tricky to get them to line up. I find that the side rubbers tend to foul the lip around the cabin, fixed by giving the side frames of the hard top a sharp tug outwards. Also I put a blanket over the rear deck before I start trying to maneuvre the thing into position (with whichever poor soul I've roped in to help) which I slide out once I've got the screen header bolts in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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