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Any bright ideas ....to unlock my glove box.


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Mal 


Is there a key number on the front of the lock ?

or in your records. ?

they are available if you have .

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The lock will never have been "Fort Knocks" style, & will be worn, so it should not be too hard to pick, either using thin wires, or just another similar key.

Then as Hamish says you will probably find the key number on the back of the lock.

Or, did the same key fit the boot ?

Bob

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Just now, Lebro said:

The lock will never have been "Fort Knocks" style, & will be worn, so it should not be too hard to pick, either using thin wires, or just another similar key.

Then as Hamish says you will probably find the key number on the back of the lock.

Or, did the same key fit the boot ?

Bob

X2 never a secure lock. As Bob says have a fiddle with similar key or bit of jagged wire/thin hacksaw blade.

Paul

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The 4A was supplied new with two sets of keys. One operated both doors and the ignition and the other the glove box lock and the boot, one of which latter two locks may well have been changed on Malbaby's car. Incidentally, the spare set of keys was supplied inside the passenger side rear light housing. I wonder if any unsuspecting current owners still have those spare keys lurking there.

Tim

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36 minutes ago, MKTR said:

I wonder if one can unscrew and take out the wooden dash, and then remove the whole lock mechanism from behind the lid and replace barrel if needed?

That should be possible 

4 minutes ago, stillp said:

I can't remember how the fibreboard glove box liner is fixed - maybe that could be removed allowing access to the back of the lock?

Pete

Hi Pete,

you need the door open to the get to the screws.

 

Roger

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Just wondering if you can use a thin tool to work the the lock plunger down. (similar to what they do in the films with a credit card and door locks)

I guess this would only work though, if the plunger is not fixed in position when the lock is locked. (I'm assuming when locked it just stops the button being pushed)

 

Paul

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2 minutes ago, gloide69 said:

Just wondering if you can use a thin tool to work the the lock plunger down. (similar to what they do in the films with a credit card and door locks)

I guess this would only work though, if the plunger is not fixed in position when the lock is locked. (I'm assuming when locked it just stops the button being pushed)

 

Paul

No when its locked the wedge section that holds it closed is solid.

Stuart.

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To pick a cheap and cheerful lock all you need is a small screwdriver and straightened paperclip.

Put the screwdriver into the slot at the bottom (The bottom being the opposite end to where the wavy bits on the key are.)

Put a small amount of pressure on the screwdriver in the rotation direction as if it were the key.

Now push the paperclip all the way in and slowly draw it out, pressing upwards.

You may need to do this a few times, but it often works.

 

Cheap locks, not being precision built (and especially if well used) have the internal pins loose, so  there is a good chance that as you put pressure on the screwdriver and you stroke the pins with your paperclip, you will get one or more of the pins to catch on the body of the barrel and not fall back into it’s hole.

Eventually they will all be out of their holes, and the barrel will turn.

 

Charlie.

 

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From experience (admittedly limited), in practice the paper clip will bend before it sets the pins. You might get lucky with a sloppy lock but only if your tensioning is spot on.  A pick set is cheap. 
 

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As said a similar key could work with a wiggle. The best wiggle is to fully insert key then retract it a fraction. Then push in and turn in one quick movement, you might need to experiment with the amount of retraction. IF the lock is old then this usually works. Then it's mixed feelings - relief that you're in, scary you could do it!

Good luck,

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Hi Mal--Similar to Mike, get a few worn keys if you can, one may open straight away, if not apply light pressure on  the key moving slightly in and out,  up and down, rocking motion keeping light pressure to open , if not, try the other's--Barry

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Mike

I never lock mine, or the doors and boot and don't have an valuables in the car when I'm out, what's the point on a convertable , even on a hard top  it would take them 1 sec' to open it with a medium screwdriver( and damage it)--so might as well leave every thing open--Barry

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This does not help you, but I also never lock it.

Reason is, if anyone want to steal what's inside this will cause serious damages on the dashboard.

The door I lock, this keeps idiots out of the car making idiot photos for "their" idiot Instagram story.

 

Edited by Z320
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3 hours ago, barrytr4 said:

Mike

I never lock mine, or the doors and boot and don't have an valuables in the car when I'm out, what's the point on a convertable , even on a hard top  it would take them 1 sec' to open it with a medium screwdriver( and damage it)--so might as well leave every thing open--Barry

I would not mention that to your insurance company. Any reason not to pay . (I am not disagreeing with your reasoning by the way). I also seem to recall discussion on here about clause in insurance about convertables having to have the roofs up if car left for any length of time unattended?

Paul

Edited by Harbottle
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