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My fuel gauge has been overhauled in the past. I would like to send it to the same company, but can not find any records. The body has been cleaned and possibly replated. There is a number hand engraved on the back. 42/3105.

Does anyone know who this may have been many years ago. ? I imagine that the number is there to help identify the unit.

If we can not find the original supplier it will have to go to Speedy Cables in Swansea. I used then when they were in London.

Thanks Richard & B

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Hi Bob,

Your overhaul worked very well. Thank you very much. However the gauge has had condensation for some time after being live for a few minutes  and does not seem to be showing 2 gallons.  I removed the retaining strap on the gauge and checked the terminals. There is live incoming but nothing on the green wire to the tank. 

Since my original post yesterday I have found a gauge in my spares department. I connected it in place of the original and current is showing on the green wire, However there is still nothing at the tank sender. I just checked the garage and there is a coil of green cable waiting for me.

So back out in the cold  before lunch.

Do people still have Sunday Lunch. My family have dropped the custom and several others as well.

Thanks for your help Bob.

Richard & B

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Condensation seems to be quite normal on these gauges - mine does the same.

If you have zero volts on the "T" terminal (& not a full tank) then there is a short to ground somewhere on the wire going to the sender.

The TR3 gauges will read full if the "T" terminal is disconnected (have you tried that?) & empty if the "T" terminal is short to ground.

The gauge case must be grounded to get any sensible readings.

Keep looking !

Bob.

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Thanks very much for the advice Bob. I have spent a long time this afternoon trying to find a problem. I have now disconnected the sender and the gauge reads full. So if it is OK I will send you the sender and the gauge in the post.  If you could check it all over it would be very helpful and let me know the problem. 

I could rive it up to you again but not allowed out at present. 

Thanks Richard & B

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Very tasty food where you live as well. But there are some vineyards in SE England as well, nowadays. Soon we will be making our own croissants .

How are the vaccinations down there. ?

Richard & B

Edited by Richardtr3a
clearer understanding
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Sender fixed Richard, & on it's way back to you.

I think you must have connected 12V direct to the sender at some point, as the resistance wire had fused (same had happened last time I fixed it for you !)

luckily this time it had fused near the top terminal, & was easy to repair.

Did a quick calibration check with the gauge, & it's still good.

Cheers

Bob.

 

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Thanks Bob, Please can you confirm the terminal for the incoming supply and of course the green/black cable to the sender. While I was taking it in and out I did blow the fuse and it took me a while to find my supply of fuses !!

I will disconnect the battery next time.

Thanks Richard & B

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12v supply goes to the terminal adjacent to the B mark on the case, the sender wire goes on the terminal adjacent to the T mark on the case

B for battery, T for tank

Bob

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Thanks Bob. You have done a great job. The parts are now working before the sender is installed but connected and moved by hand. Once it was installed I added 2 gallons to the one that was already in the tank. Th gauge moved but only to 1/8th full. If I rock the car side to side the gauge moves up and back and you can hear the float touching the side once or twice.So the float is free. I would like to be able to move the arm from above by a bent coat hanger, but there is a baffle plate in the way and I can not see the float or arm.

I am thinking that a bit of gently bending of the arm could improve the gauge reading. The next test is to get the tank 1/2 full and see how it reads.  I am using a dipstick that I had marked up for the old tank so I know how much fuel is there.

Any other adjustments available. ??

Richard & B.

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There are only three things you can do to the sender.

Alter the position of the the small "end stops" on the sender casing.

    These I have set to give the correct range of readings, so I would not touch these.

The bend in the float arm can be made straighter (to make the gauge read more full)  or be more acute (to make the gauge read less full)

    Only slight adjustments recommended.

The float arm can be made longer or shorter to set the  range of movement (determined by the end stops) to match the top & bottom of your tank.

The last two adjustments are best carried out with an empty tank, & a wire rod to pull the float up to the top.

If you can't get a wire rod in, the the only thing I would suggest is to gently bend the float rod to push the float down, but only by a small amount, that will make the gauge read fuller.

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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