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The Works' TR4s have two coils mounted on the inside of the front left wing - very convenient for making a quick change in the even of a coil failing, very close to the distributor, and much cooler than the side of the block.

You can see them in the photo.

Ian Cornish

Engine bay  2007 - Brooklands - Randy-1280.jpg

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Well that was quickly sorted,  Not needing Twin coils  (Hopefully) Rogers suggestion seems a very handy spot.

thanks for the pictures Gents.

Roger, surely one of those Dizzy's is in the wrong spot?

 

Edited by pfenlon
spelling error.
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I use copper HT leads, and no problem whatsoever with connection from coil to distributor in 30 years.

I fitted my own design of steady bracket for the engine in 1996 (see TR Action 130 or pages G15-G19 in the Technicalities CD), which does prevent the engine rocking about too much!

Ian Cornish

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13 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Look just forward of the carbs

 

Roger

:D:D  I scrolled back to look at the photo, & the 1st one I saw was your car - not Ian's .  

Must TRy harder !

Bob.

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Andrew- yes, I converted my cooling system in 1994 to be sealed, as in modern vehicles. It ensures that the radiator and thermostat housing are always completely full of coolant, which is what one wants.  Never needs to be topped up.

There's a full description in TR Action 112 and B18 on the Technicalities CD.

I obtained the Triumph Dolomite header tank from a scrap yard for £5, making the whole a very cheap and very worthwhile conversion.

Ian Cornish

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I did the same and these nice period brass expansion tanks are getting more and more expensive 

 

1972 MG Midget Metal Expansion Tank

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233656916556

Sorry for perpetuating thread drift. 

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Hi all

A couple of other aspects to think about with coils, firstly the king lead coming off, which tends to happen more often with horizontally mounted positions and secondly with water splash from the road when the weather is gritty and that particular spot on top of the LH inner arch tends to attract a lot. Mounting it ‘clever end’ toward the bulkhead seems to be worse, possibly because water makes its way in the end of the king lead.

I've run single and twin coils in the same position as Ian C shows on the same car for over 100,000 miles without any issues, including having the car up to the door tops as we crossed Stanhope Ford some years ago. By contrast, the engine mounted coils failed regularly with heat, vibration and water damage and ‘high up’ positions did similarly.

The comments on oil filled coils are well made and these need to be mounted vertically so that the winding is fully submerged otherwise it quickly gets very hot and fails. Again the ‘lower’ inner arch position inboard of the horn mount seems to work well.

With all of the ‘off engine’ positions, the coil wiring and king lead needs to be extended far enough to reach, plus an extra few inches to deal with side to side engine movement. It’s also useful to change the routing of the coil wiring (again as per the VC cars) and seal any joints, as well as tuck the second circuit away in a watertight fashion if you go down the twin coil route.

regards

Tony 

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23 hours ago, stillp said:

I wonder if the vibration of the engine with respect to the body might cause failure of the HT lead from the coil?

Pete

Had mine on the inner wing for 15yrs, no problem, easy to get to, swap over etc

 

Twin coils.jpg

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9 minutes ago, pfenlon said:

Anti Gravity stuff Stuart. do you know something we don't?

I know it works and has done for a very long time.

Stuart.

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10 hours ago, stuart said:

Well just to be different mine is mounted like this and has been faultless for at least 20 yrs.

Stuart.

photo1754.thumb.jpg.fc72a2ec7544cd29db368f16b7b234af.jpg

It looks like a 4a but it’s not only the coil that’s different. 
1. What’s that’s mounted between the coil and the washer bottle ? And 

2. that’s a neat tool tray you’ve created to the side of the battery. I presume it has another purpose ?
Puzzled. Thanks David B

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