Jase Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 After a recommendation for a supplier of high quality wheel nuts. Bought these for my TR6 wheels for my TR4A last summer and disappointingly they have corroded quite badly. In all fairness the supplier has said return them and they will refund but he won't supply anymore which is fair enough. So can anyone recommend a set of wheel nuts that won't corrode as quickly as these. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 How rich are you and how brave. TRGB offer stainless steel wheel nuts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-TRIUMPH-TR6-WHEEL-NUT-SET-IN-STAINLESS-STEEL-FOR-STEEL-WHEELS-X16/254477493645?hash=item3b400a658d:g:X-8AAOSw2kleGKef Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: How rich are you and how brave. TRGB offer stainless steel wheel nuts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-TRIUMPH-TR6-WHEEL-NUT-SET-IN-STAINLESS-STEEL-FOR-STEEL-WHEELS-X16/254477493645?hash=item3b400a658d:g:X-8AAOSw2kleGKef will still need the plastic washers though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: How rich are you and how brave. TRGB offer stainless steel wheel nuts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-TRIUMPH-TR6-WHEEL-NUT-SET-IN-STAINLESS-STEEL-FOR-STEEL-WHEELS-X16/254477493645?hash=item3b400a658d:g:X-8AAOSw2kleGKef Why brave? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jase said: will still need the plastic washers though. Yes peel them off your old rusty nuts as they are a separate item. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/road-wheels-tyres-roadside-equipment/road-wheels-tyres-fittings/road-wheels-tr5-6-1967-76.html or buy .... Pt No 154466 at 64 p a go. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 1 minute ago, Jase said: Why brave? Stainless steel is said to 'gall' when tightened, which may cause the fastener to seize on the stud. There are stainless steels that may not as strong as the original mild steel. Roger will be along in a moment with better knowledge of galling and steels Here is the result of simple search https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-gb/news/product-resources/how-to-prevent-galling-on-stainless-steel-bolts Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 14 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Yes peel them off your old rusty nuts as they are a separate item. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/road-wheels-tyres-roadside-equipment/road-wheels-tyres-fittings/road-wheels-tr5-6-1967-76.html or buy .... Pt No 154466 at 64 p a go. Cheers Peter W I have to return the wheel nuts and the washers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 6 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Stainless steel is said to 'gall' when tightened, which may cause the fastener to seize on the stud. There are stainless steels that may not as strong as the original mild steel. Roger will be along in a moment with better knowledge of galling and steels Here is the result of simple search https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-gb/news/product-resources/how-to-prevent-galling-on-stainless-steel-bolts Peter W Thanks, guess copper grease would help with this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 This may be a subject that will run and run! Like the loose wheel bouncing down the road in front of you! Two reasons: 1/ The 'tightness' of a nut depends on the friction between the threads, and the plate it's clamping. Lubrication will reduce that friction and could cause the nut to loosen. 2/ That reduced friction could allow a nut monkey with a rattle gun to vastly overtighten the nuts, stretching the studs towards yield point and fracture. I don't lubricate mine, classic or modern, and one time, when the modern's alloys corroded onto the hubs, so I couldn't get them off, the garage managed to, but their monkeys tightened the bolts to THREE TIMES the book torque! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 Stainless only galls to stainless. Stainless nuts are fine on normal steel studs but strength is a factor as Peter says. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 Hi Folks, as Rob states Stainless likes to gall to its own. So steel stud and SS nut should be fine. As for strength the studs don't take that great a tensile load. A fair bit of shear though. The rubber tyres tend to damp down the loads As long as the nut can withstand the torque oading for tightening up then they should be fone. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 A lot of TR owners have been using stainless wheel nuts for years without issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted February 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 Thanks everyone, think this is the way to go. I can't leave those on the car, they are almost as rusty as the car Quote Link to post Share on other sites
North London Mike Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 I've used SS wheel nuts on LNK for 3 years now without issue. Never use or allow a 'gun' to remove or tighten and also recheck wheel nuts before and during tours as best practise Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 In 2000, I fitted stainless steel wheel nuts from Revington. Not as shiny as chrome, but they don't deteriorate as chrome does, so they still look "new". They do not bind on the studs and, as has been mentioned above, must be fitted free of any lubricant. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Just now, ianc said: In 2000, I fitted stainless steel wheel nuts from Revington. Not as shiny as chrome, but they don't deteriorate as chrome does, so they still look "new". They do not bind on the studs and, as has been mentioned above, must be fitted free of any lubricant. Ian Cornish Glad to read the galling issue is only on stainless to stainless applications and that TR owners have suppliers using appropriate stainless for the wheel nuts. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 Received my stainless steel wheel nuts from Revington today, good quality and a little job for the daughter and the dremmel to quickly polish the sides - have to give her something to do during lockdown. Unfortunately three of my wheel studs aren't up to scratch to take these wheel nuts (running TR6 wheels and nuts to go with them). The poor quality chrome ones seem fine but best to be safe than sorry I'll replace of the studs in both front wheels. So my new question. Never having changed studs on the 4A do I need to remove the hub or can I just knock them out? I'm also assuming that the studs are the same for the 4A as the TR6? Thanks again for the advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 Please ignore the above, just had a quick search and found lots of discussion about the front studs. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 Well, one side was fairly easy, I was hoping it was going to be quicker. The studs were quite short and just dropped out the back when I knocked them out. Unfortunately the new ones were slightly longer. The PO had replaced the discs, calipers etc so it was fairly easy to remove everything and replace. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 12, 2021 Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 15 hours ago, Jase said: Well, one side was fairly easy, I was hoping it was going to be quicker. The studs were quite short and just dropped out the back when I knocked them out. Unfortunately the new ones were slightly longer. The PO had replaced the discs, calipers etc so it was fairly easy to remove everything and replace. Not a lot of thread left there! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 1 hour ago, stuart said: Not a lot of thread left there! Stuart. No, guessing these were the original studs, anyway, all replaced one side, will do the other side today dependent on weather Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted March 12, 2021 Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 It is easier to insert new studs if one grinds away some material from one side of the unthreaded part of the stud, and also grinds away a small amount of material from the hub at the place where the stud has to be pushed through. Neither of these modifications affect in any way the strength of stud or hub, since the unthreaded part of the stud takes no load and the hub is a large lump of steel. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jase Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 In all fairness, less than 30 minutes to change the second side, all done now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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