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Intermittent wipers, with wash wipe too !


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Current design assumes that it is placed on or very close to the wiper motor, so that in the event of a problem the wires can be quickly replaced on the motor to revert to standard. 

20220406_172929.thumb.jpg.18e2b3aec4e2d7e2364da127ff5e7c55.jpg   

Bob.

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9 hours ago, Lebro said:

Current design assumes that it is placed on or very close to the wiper motor, so that in the event of a problem the wires can be quickly replaced on the motor to revert to standard. 

   

Bob.

Please put me down for a 4A unit Bob, it's for a GT6 Mk1 but it's the same motor & wiring. 

Ian

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28 minutes ago, iani said:

Please put me down for a 4A unit Bob, it's for a GT6 Mk1 but it's the same motor & wiring. 

Ian

Bob, do not forget that GT6 is the two speed type as used on TR4A/250/5.  Motor drops to earth through the 3 position, off/slow/fast dash switch.      To my mind an additional switch is required to activate the delay circuit rather than a switch change on single speed self parking motors on earlier cars.   No doubt Rob and Roger will be on the ball with this.

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Yes you are right Peter.  The two-speed DR3A uses the three positions available on the switch (off/ fast /slow) so you would need a separate one to switch on the delay circuit alone or else find a four-position switch which would fit. 

This one would work but I doubt it would fit, and it is a rotary rather than rocker. 

https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-39332-312551-16sa-ss6-rotary-panel-light-switch-4-position-2255-p.asp

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I would be interested for a kit a TR6.

tim

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On 8/24/2022 at 6:15 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Years ago  I thought about searching for a kit and found this.

Have just found it again.  How does it compare?   Will it do a single speed Sidescreen car DR3  type wiper motor?

http://www.velleman.co.uk/contents/en-uk/p204.html

Only just noticed this one Peter, a quick look suggests that it is pretty flexible, & could be configured to work on most if not all of the variants.

Having said that Steve's original option would, I think, still be best for TR6's (or other cars fitted with the TR6 motor)

Bob

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I built the Velleman kit many years ago and fitted it to an MGB.

For some reason it was very erratic in it’s operation. I put the problem down to excess noise on the power supply. Never could get it right so gave up on it.

Still have it "Somewhere".

Charlie.

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Rainy day, so been doing some more designing / drawing / making.

Having scrapped the "Cargo" delay wash / wipe unit in favor of a more simple design (pinched from t'internet)

I wondered how hard it would be to add the wash / wipe function to it.  Turns out pretty simple:

870655225_Wiperdelaycircuitearthswitchingwasherwipeveswitching_veearth.jpg.0068998f7abee539ae4bdeb11eb363fc.jpg

1 extra transistor, a couple of diodes, 3 resistors, & a capacitor. On using the washers, the new capacitor gets rapidly charged up, turning on the new transistor, which grounds the bottom of the relay coil, & at the same time (via the new 10K resistor & diode) the original NPN transistor gets turned on, which closes the relay. The new capacitor slowly discharges, & by the time the wipers have done approx 3 wipes everything turns back off again.  All works on my car, & all components are still inside the original Cargo unit case.

Further to this I did some more circuit drawing for other possible versions of the delay circuit.

419705307_Universalwiperdelaycircuit-veearth.jpg.db32a36763c1b4916ad9adfb75605dc4.jpg

 To convert this circuit for +ve earth cars diode should be reversed,  the two transistors swapped over, & the 100uF capacitor reversed.

Bob

Edited by Lebro
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On 11/15/2022 at 8:03 PM, RobH said:

Yes you are right Peter.  The two-speed DR3A uses the three positions available on the switch (off/ fast /slow) so you would need a separate one to switch on the delay circuit alone or else find a four-position switch which would fit. 

This one would work but I doubt it would fit, and it is a rotary rather than rocker. 

https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-39332-312551-16sa-ss6-rotary-panel-light-switch-4-position-2255-p.asp

This old Post discusses the ideas scenario for a TR4A using a four position switch.  It just needs someone skilled at modifying a switch to take the original knob.

Paul

Edited by PaulAnderson
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That post shows this switch:

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/4-position-rotary-switch

To use that would require a relay in addition to the switch, because there is only one contact 'made' in each of positions ll,lll,lV but the wiper motor requires two contacts made at the same time for the slow speed setting. 

You could connect it to give OFF/Delay/Slow/Fast like this:

l - 0ff. 

ll -   pin 1 (earth) to pin 2 (delay unit - configured with permanent supply and switched earth)

lll - pin 1 (earth ) to pin 3 (wiper 'slow') and relay coil.  Relay contact connects 3 and 4 together

lV - pin 1 (earth)  to pin 4 (wiper 'fast')

[ It would be possible to use a power diode instead of a relay if that was preferred, connected between 3 and 4 (cathode to 3 for negative earth).  The diode carries the whole motor armature current so needs to be 20Amp rated and mounted on a heat-sink.  An MBR2010CT would do]

 

Edited by RobH
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  • 1 year later...

Update to my (adapted) design above, just made a 2nd for a forumite, & used a standard relay, with the circuit outside, also used surface mount resistors to get the board size down.

1308059318_Wiperdelay1.jpg.1a8bb6f1004ae54986a33b012aa15150.jpg916508876_Wiperdelay2.jpg.5f0d456d7705face0005a60f0843d33f.jpg 965846619_Wiperdelay3.thumb.jpg.0881fc4ba95ab29f8302253cd3e57a05.jpg    199277524_Wiperdelay4.jpg.91eb24812a49f3474d2a00b0ae3f0563.jpg244866304_Wiperdelay5.jpg.500263a04e55681f79802f44f6924f44.jpg     813192195_Wiperdelay6.jpg.ebcb0f3214cbcd61ec121b029bb7f45b.jpg   click on to enlarge

Bob

Edited by Lebro
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9 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said:

I love it when you electrical types talk “Dirty”. :ph34r:
Rgds Ian

PS I don’t understand a word of it!

Best laugh I’ve had all day Ian……..and totally agree, what are these guys on?

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Nice work Bob. Surface mount components - these days I have trouble seeing them let alone soldering !    :o

 

For those wanting electronic p*rn -     H parameter equivalent circuits  :

https://bestengineeringprojects.com/h-parameter-model-for-transistor/

We had to learn that stuff at college 50-odd years ago.  Useful for passing exams but never had cause to use it much since. 

Ohm's and Kirchoff's laws are really all that was needed for most things. 

 

 

Edited by RobH
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Those are 0805 resistors, 1 resistor (100R) on my stop / tail / flash bulbs is 0402 size need my big magnifier for that one !

592901209_STF4.thumb.jpg.2424ecc3a56ae9f630bc7762dc7fed7a.jpg

Don't forget W =V * I  (not sure who's law that is, but it's a useful one ! )

 

Edited by Lebro
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I’ve always kept away from surface mounted stuff, but it’s interesting to see how well it fits in with Veroboard, across the tracks.

Problem I see is that the resistors would just float away when the solder melts and end up where they decided to go, not where you wanted them to go.

12 hours ago, RobH said:

 Useful for passing exams but never had cause to use it much since. 

I think that is the case for a lot of technical exams. I did C&G telecoms, part of which included mathematical formulae that I just memorised, never really understanding it and definitely never needing to use it in my job.

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20 minutes ago, Charlie D said:

I’ve always kept away from surface mounted stuff, but it’s interesting to see how well it fits in with Veroboard, across the tracks.

Problem I see is that the resistors would just float away when the solder melts and end up where they decided to go, not where you wanted them to go.

Yes, the 0805 size do fit veroboad nicely.  Trick is to tin the 1st track generously, then hold resistor with tweezers, & place it in position. Apply soldering iron to fix the 1st end, then apply solder & iron to the other end, & finally a bit more solder on the 1st end. That way it can't move.

If using them on a pcb designed for SM, then you can heat the whole area with a hot air source, & as the solder paste melts the components self align.

1467933140_ST1.thumb.jpg.96b80a44afdde2fb5eb72d68bd19142e.jpg

The LED's on the left of this board are soldered on this way (the connections are underneath, so you can't use an iron)

Edited by Lebro
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Great to see someone has taken this forward, well done Bob

steve

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