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TR3A Gearbox Identification and Advice


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OK, nothing major here really. Having finished changing the diff seal and gasket and checking out the prop shaft (ended up changing both UJs as one felt like it was failing) I've moved on to the gearbox mount which has collapsed. Decided to take the tunnel out to do this and ended up. With the gearbox out. Feel the engine is coming out next to be honest as I want to change engine mounts and front crank seal (and if brave enough the rear Crank seal). 

     The gear box has a good smear of oil pretty much every where. Its clear I've had a leak from the rocker cover cork seal. The gearbox worked really well with no issues other than a slight noise from the clutch release bearing when pressed (and I can feel that now that the gearbox is off). I really don't want to get into a gearbox rebuild but I would be interested in which seals can be changed without getting into taking gears out etc. 

  Oh and can anyone identify the gearbox and OD type. It's not the original one that was in the car, it wasn't an OD car originally but I think it's still a TR3 box. 

 

 

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Hi ?

in your very last photo showing the solenoid wire, look at the top edge of the oval boss in the gearbox casing. Is a TS number stamped into the casting radius?

It looks like numbers are there but can't quite make them out

Bob

Edited by OldBob
better info
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Tr2 / 3 / 3A gearbox with Type A overdrive. front & rear seals are changable without dismantling the box.

No dipstick though, so probably not TR2

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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You can also change the O ring seals (2), either side of the overdrive operating shaft. Remove adjustment lever R/H side, and solenoid, cover plate L/H side and slide the O rings onto the shaft.

Rob

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A model number on the OD plate (IRO the selector box casing) prefixed with 22 or 28 et al will identify the exact model and if it is TR type. Given the number I (and many others) will be able to confirm what car it was intended for. Post a picture of the plate?

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45 minutes ago, Drewmotty said:

There should be a number stamped into the casing where the cross shaft goes through which will identify the original fitment. 

Not on an original 3syncro box, that’s where the date stamp is, the chassis number is stamped on the side of the g/box casing as in this example pictured below

Stuart

E202E997-E083-4CA0-BAB9-2DC1FF9A38BB.jpeg

E8BB9FCA-9085-4F51-9F38-48C663023D97.jpeg

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Hi, 

   I've taken these photos - 

Gearbox is TS55455

20210216_202801_586.jpeg.f12e52015fe2fcdd04f708044a187bda.jpeg

Date stamp? Is 22 F - 59/.  Is that week 22 in 59?

20210216_202806_364.jpeg.73ffdfef55bbcdea6f14da491b816f6e.jpeg

And unfortunately the plate on the overdrive is below the gear shift and I cannot read it, or ami looking in the wrong place? 

IMG_20210216_202930.thumb.jpg.acd57e4f4a76c4de4d24d8707a22b831.jpg

 

Just starting to clean it up and make some decisions on which seals ans gaskets to change. 

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Re:  overdrive plate, you have found it.

My A type overdrive plate attached, this one is without the 22% or 28% prefix number, they don't all have it, depends on the year and original vehicle I believe.

Bob

 

1607706074522.jpg

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In the process of cleaning it up its pretty obvious that oil is coming out the selector shafts and so I took the top off which allowed me to take the photo of the overdrive plate. I read the number as 22/1374/009950.

20210220_180630_426.thumb.jpeg.14d8ca0e04be153494ad43189520ef17.jpeg

 

I'm now reading the manual to see what seals there are on the select shafts. Having fun in lockdown

Neil

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15 hours ago, NCS_TR3A said:

In the process of cleaning it up its pretty obvious that oil is coming out the selector shafts and so I took the top off which allowed me to take the photo of the overdrive plate. I read the number as 22/1374/009950.

20210220_180630_426.thumb.jpeg.14d8ca0e04be153494ad43189520ef17.jpeg

 

I'm now reading the manual to see what seals there are on the select shafts. Having fun in lockdown

Neil

Be warned, read about removing the tapered pins first.

I wonder if this is a problem that affects later cars without a dipstick more than early ones with a dipstick. I was thinking maybe the gearbox requires a small breather to prevent pressure build up as the gearbox warms up and the early type may have vented round the cork seal on the dipstick, later boxes use the only available escape route past the seals on the selector rods.

Ralph

Edited by Ralph Whitaker
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This is the breather on my A type 22% without a dip stick
 

 

03F21356-F04B-4EE4-8261-9AB4EE321B99.jpeg

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53 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Be warned, read about removing the tapered pins first.

I wonder if this is a problem that affects later cars without a dipstick more than early ones with a dipstick. I was thinking maybe the gearbox requires a small breather to prevent pressure build up as the gearbox warms up and the early type may have vented round the cork seal on the dipstick, later boxes use the only available escape route past the seals on the selector rods.

Ralph

There is a breather Ralph, although it is easily missed. There should be a small hole about 3mm diameter in the top of the front left hand corner of the selector housing.....or maybe that is only on some models?

 

Edited by Drewmotty
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On 2/21/2021 at 9:56 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:

Be warned, read about removing the tapered pins first.

I wonder if this is a problem that affects later cars without a dipstick more than early ones with a dipstick. I was thinking maybe the gearbox requires a small breather to prevent pressure build up as the gearbox warms up and the early type may have vented round the cork seal on the dipstick, later boxes use the only available escape route past the seals on the selector rods.

Ralph

Hi Ralf, 

    Thanks for the warning. I've read quite a lot over the last few days. I've taken the taper pin out on the clutch fork to allow me to change the front oil seal and the release bearing. I'm struggling a little with the selector shaft. The heads of the tapered pins ar 5/16. There are no holes in mine and therefore no wires. How have people loosened these, I get that a brake spanner fits but I don't physically have room to get the spanner in. Is there something I'm missing? Is there anything I can do to reduce the chance of the pin snapping? I can see the risk I just haven't read anything that tells me how to reduce it. 

Thanks, 

   Neil

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