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Glad to see the design has been improved, mine did not have this feature!

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Do CDD do a complete replacement hub with drive shaft complete? 

I was looking at their site and it's got this matrix thing, if I got the right parts it's an uprated UJ rear hub £380+vat for a pair and uprated UJ drive shaft £425+vat for a pair, is that everything you need?

In the picture above there is no axle fitted to the hub, is that included and a diy job to fit? 

Gareth

Edited by Mk2 Chopper
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Hi Gareth

yes the combination of cv driveshaft and hub makes a complete kit.

the driveshaft passes through the hub, secures with a Big Nut

pic attached

you might also consider uprating the 6 a side hub securing studs while you are there, cdd do a nice kit

i fitted this all myself, its not difficult

steve

CEFFD581-E8F8-495E-8CB3-5C7F52E48798.jpeg

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Have just completed this conversion yesterday. I can confirm that it's a straightforward DIY job. The only part of the operation that's a bit fiddly is due to the fact that the new driveshaft assembly minus the bearing carrier has to be fed in from behind the trailing arm. The diameter of the inner constant velocity joint is too large to pass through the opening in the casting. To be fair this is clearly stated in the instructions. It's no problem on the left side but the lever arm damper needs to be removed. On the right side the exhaust pipes prevent access and need to be removed. As Steve mentioned, if you are going to the expense of this conversion it's really worth upgrading the trailing arms to 3/8 UNC stepped studs. The kit and jig hire will give you everything you need including the correct drill bit and UNC taps. This can be done on the car but my trailing arms were removed anyway. Consequently it was then straightforward to fit the driveshafts loosely to the differential flanges and then feed the trailing arms over the driveshafts when bolting up the mounting bushes. With the resultant assembly at full drop the springs will go back in but be careful to support the trailing arm with a jack so as not to strain the driveshaft against the chassis leg. The only specialist bit of kit needed is a torque wrench that will cope with 210 lb/ft to tighten the outer securing nut. 

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This is great information guys, I'm just trying to piece together all the knowledge out there so I'm prepared when I get to do this job on mine. 

The kit does look really good, what's the advantage of the CV over the UJ?

Thanks

Gareth

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Gareth,

The pros and cons of the modern constant velocity conversion over the standard set up has been discussed extensively on these forums in recent years. If you search rear driveshaft conversions you'll find plenty of opinions! I went  for it simply to future proof the car. This is my second TR6 and I've owned it for over 35 years (yes I'm getting on a bit!). It's part of the family and my eldest daughter has put her marker on it when I'm finished with it one way or the other!. Although I've replaced the u/js over the years I had play in both the rear wheel bearing carriers, play in the sliding splines and yet again play in the u/js. I work part time in the classic car trade and myself and my colleagues agreed that this conversion is a nice piece of engineering. No connection to CDD just a satisfied customer. I'm not an originality nut and am quite happy to make sensible upgrades providing the car looks period from the outside. 

Mike

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Just keep an eye on things as you use the car. I had 2 CDD units fail. Brilliant customer service to to replace them but was never happy that they failed after less then 400 miles. I wouldn't use them again personally as there must be a flaw in the design or build quality. I am not the only one to experience issues too.

Colin

 

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Be aware that you can damage the CV joint if you allow it to fully drop to fit the springs

Stuart.

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The only problem I had was after having them fitted a couple of years the outer boot leaked when stripped out it was the rough casting marks in the trailing arm which had rubbed on the boot so cleaned both sides smooth Alasdair replaced the boot but worth checking before fitting.

Keith

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I fitted my cv driveshaft and all was well till one day it disconnected itself on a day out and i had to jack up the car and push it back in, i discovered that the diff was slightly off centre by 15mm . I had to send one offending shaft back for a rebuild with the correct spacer fitted. If i remember correctly the distance between flanges is 410 mm . Andy

Edited by andyb633
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I think it would be good (when we are allowed) to drive other people's cars and see what the differences are between set ups like this, I've put it to my local group and they seem up for the idea. 

I have to agree there are a lot of opinions about CV's etc. My set up is the original, and yes I do get clunk's when the take up in drive happens. I think most is in the diff. I guess I'm coming from this at the stub axle age weakness issue, and would consider carrying on with UJ drive shafts, but if I can drive a CV joint car I can compare to a degree. 

Gareth

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Gareth  - when I did a price comparison some time ago to compare the cost of the uprated parts as per the original set up. it came out much more than the CV package - are you sure the prices you mention aren't for a single item rather than a pair?

I asked CDD at the time if the cost of uprated units as per original design were more expensive than the CV set up, and it was confirmed that was correct, so unless they have dropped their prices considerably, it would be worth checking.

I fitted a pair of the CV joints to a friends TR6 as he was fed up with the clonking from his rear end and they were definitely much smoother and quieter, but full silence was not restored till he replaced the diff as well - all good and very quiet now!

Cheers Rich

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1 hour ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

I think it would be good (when we are allowed) to drive other people's cars and see what the differences are between set ups like this, I've put it to my local group and they seem up for the idea. 

I have to agree there are a lot of opinions about CV's etc. My set up is the original, and yes I do get clunk's when the take up in drive happens. I think most is in the diff. I guess I'm coming from this at the stub axle age weakness issue, and would consider carrying on with UJ drive shafts, but if I can drive a CV joint car I can compare to a degree. 

Gareth

You can drive mine if we ever getbout of lockdown!

as well as the lack of clonking i noticed an improvement in suspension responsiveness when i fitted the cv shafts

for instance  on exiting a roundabout with some camber change the suspension was much more supple, i think the splines were previously locking up under load.

i too had a gaiter leak but otherwise they’ve been good.

ps, i also have the uprated front hubs and the larger rear hub securing studs, both also good items imho

steve

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Fitted them to mine in the hope that they would handle the torque from the supercharger better than the UJs (which were lasting  5K miles).

So far so good, done about 2-3K miles and they are noise free..

Only issue I have had is that now there is no noise from the UJs I can hear the diff whining!

I agree with others that it also alters the dynamics of the rear suspension somewhat.. it  immediately feels more supple when accelerating. It was stark enough that my wife mentioned it without prompting saying the TR was quieter and much more comfortable.. she may even contemplate the 10 countries rally in 2022 :-)

tim

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1 hour ago, rcreweread said:

Gareth  - when I did a price comparison some time ago to compare the cost of the uprated parts as per the original set up. it came out much more than the CV package - are you sure the prices you mention aren't for a single item rather than a pair?

I asked CDD at the time if the cost of uprated units as per original design were more expensive than the CV set up, and it was confirmed that was correct, so unless they have dropped their prices considerably, it would be worth checking.

I fitted a pair of the CV joints to a friends TR6 as he was fed up with the clonking from his rear end and they were definitely much smoother and quieter, but full silence was not restored till he replaced the diff as well - all good and very quiet now!

Cheers Rich

Hi Rich, 

I've not contacted them, I took the information from their price matrix on the website, which had a price and said pair, but it would be worth checking for sure. 

Most seem to say CV is smoother and quieter though as you say, and if they turn out to be cheaper than the UJ counter parts, there no question which I'd go for. 

Gareth

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1 hour ago, Steves_TR6 said:

You can drive mine if we ever getbout of lockdown!

as well as the lack of clonking i noticed an improvement in suspension responsiveness when i fitted the cv shafts

for instance  on exiting a roundabout with some camber change the suspension was much more supple, i think the splines were previously locking up under load.

i too had a gaiter leak but otherwise they’ve been good.

ps, i also have the uprated front hubs and the larger rear hub securing studs, both also good items imho

steve

Cheers for the offer! Certainly seem to offer a lot in terms of a fit and hopefully forget item that can improve the original equipment, especially if they are worn by use and age. 

Gareth

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56 minutes ago, Tim D. said:

Fitted them to mine in the hope that they would handle the torque from the supercharger better than the UJs (which were lasting  5K miles).

So far so good, done about 2-3K miles and they are noise free..

Only issue I have had is that now there is no noise from the UJs I can hear the diff whining!

I agree with others that it also alters the dynamics of the rear suspension somewhat.. it  immediately feels more supple when accelerating. It was stark enough that my wife mentioned it without prompting saying the TR was quieter and much more comfortable.. she may even contemplate the 10 countries rally in 2022 :-)

tim

Another plus for the new feel once fitted, especially if your wife noticed the upgrade!

The downside you notice the diff whine :lol:

Gareth

 

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I wouldn't say they are a fit and forget product - CV joints wear out just as Hardy-Spicers do and the gaiters fail.

The inner ones are from an Alfa GTV as I recall but not sure what the outers are derived from so replacements parts are easy to obtain at least for the inboard ones.

Not sure what the hub bearing is from.

The advice with them is not to jack the car up without lifting by the trailing arms or if you are going to, disconnect the drive shafts from the diff to avoid the shafts pulling out of the shaft. The telescopic dampers tend to stop them dropping too far but once you disconnect them the full force of the spring may damage them. They are retaied by a circlip as I recall and that won't really take the force of the springs.

Had them on the Stag and the 6 for a good while and been fine apart from a spilt gaiter on one side of the 6.

Much smoother delivery of power on fast sweeping bends than the uprated teflon coated UJ shafts.

 

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