Sidescreen tow-bar oddity.

[Charlie D]

 

Hello All,

Many years ago I bought a rolling chassis. The actual chassis was too far gone, but I removed all the suspension etc including a tow bar.
At the time I never thought of taking any photos (years before digital cameras), but I do remember that each side had a fixing to the tube that the rear spring hanger attaches to and, I’m certain, it must have been bolted up to the chassis at the very end, where the main rails end and there is a “Half box” where the rear over rider attaches.  The actual angle iron tow bar arm has two holes for the U bolt and one hole to the “Half box” section. I guess that the hole for this rearmost bolt has to be drilled in the chassis, in the lower part of the “Half box”.

Problem is that the hole in the tow bar arm is about 1 inch too far back. It lines up half way past the very rear of the chassis and not with the bottom plate part of the over rider “Half box”

(Hopefully the picture makes more sense than the words. The white dot shows where the hole should be.)

I can’t understand how this can happen.
The distance between the rear spring hanger to the very end of the chassis is constant throughout the side screen range (I would guess), so how was this tow bar ever bolted up to the back of the original (long gone) chassis?
I may have got it all wrong and fitting it incorrectly.
Does anyone recognize the tow bar?
I remember Bob saying he made his own tow bar and fitted it in a similar way, although he used both the cross tube parts of the chassis and two sets of U bolts.

It’s easy enough to alter. I’ll just drill another hole further forward, but I’m just curious if anyone else has fitted a similar tow bar, and how did they do it.

Charlie

 

 

 

 

[Lebro]

I see what you mean, but can't offer an answer. It is quite different to mine, and probably stronger as long as the fixing at the rear goes onto something solid.

I would think about reinforcing that triangular piece ?  depending on what loads you will be putting on it.

Bob

[billy l]

How far is the rear angle arm where the ball hitch bolts on away from the body? I'm just thinking if you can move the whole tow bar forward so  the two holes line up you could drill new holes where the exhaust clamps go? in effect move the whole bar forward. (just a thought)  Cheers, Bill.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Tow Bar TR2-3B Dim & Instructions PTR16.pdf

This is the kit I have

[jerrytr5]

The tow bar on my 5 from Watling Engineers had holes in all the wrong places and needed a lot of cutting, welding and drilling to fit my chassis. I can't say if that was the chassis or the bar. At best these things make a good start point and no more.

Jerry

[Lebro]

4 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Tow Bar TR2-3B Dim & Instructions PTR16.pdf 59.87 kB · 16 downloads

This is the kit I have

Mine is the same, although I made it from scratch. I now am using double U bolts on the rear tube, with spreader plates under them to spread the load over more of the tube, & to prevent denting it by overtightening.

Bob.

[Ralph Whitaker]

10 hours ago, Lebro said:

Mine is the same, although I made it from scratch. I now am using double U bolts on the rear tube, with spreader plates under them to spread the load over more of the tube, & to prevent denting it by overtightening.

Bob.

Do you use the tow bar much ?.  Have you found a way around having to remove the hitch in order to access the spare wheel compartment. I was thinking removable swan neck hitch ?

I am asking because I would like to use the car to go touring around when finished, and although I could put a trailer on the campervan and take the car that way, I was thinking of a lightweight caravan (Eriba or similar) or pop up and tow it with the TR.

Ralph.

[Charlie D]

Bob, I ‘m only going to use it with a 3x4 trailer to take things to the tip so it will not get a lot of use. I think you are right about reinforcing the rearmost fixing though and it may be possible to drill the hole in line with the hole that the rear body mount bolts through. I can then replace the existing bolt with a long bolt, up through the tow bar, and put a tubular anti-crush spacer in the middle..

Bill, Unfortunately it is very close to the rear bodywork now. If it went forwards even a tiny bit I’d never manage to get the spare wheel cover off, but thanks for the suggestion.

Peter, The Watling drawings are excellent, thank you. I wonder why they used a clamp plate for the front cross tube and a U bolt for the rear one.

Ralph. The tow ball problem is one I’ve been thinking about. At the end of the day it is only attached by two big bolts, so I think it’s just a case of making sure that you always carry a big spanner in the boot.

 

Charlie.

[Lebro]

I don't have a problem removing the spare wheel cover, just undo the latches, pull towards you & up over the ball. The spare wheel also slides out just touching the ball top.

Bob.

[Charlie D]

Ralph,

You can also gain another inch using one of these.

Charlie

 

[Ralph Whitaker]

Just been on Watling towbars site and they still list the kit for the sidescreen TRs. I have asked if it is possible to re engineer the kit to take a removable swan neck coupling, as I don`t think these were made at the time the bars were first designed, to enable quick removal when not needed, I will let you all know what they say.

Ralph

 

Ok, they got back to me straight away on Bank holiday Monday, so good service. they will make a custom towbar if I take the vehicle down, to incorporate a removable swan neck hitch, the cost, £875 + vat. That includes the fitting, but not the wiring or socket.

So I think I will stick with the standard bar, which they can make in 7 to 10 days, which is £131 + vat inc p+p. Wiring and towball extra.

Or as they helpfully sent me a copy of the original fitting instruction containing a list of all the steel used I may well make my own, its all bolt together with no welding required.

Ralph.

Edited April 6, 2021 by Ralph Whitaker
Updated information

[Ralph Whitaker]

On 4/5/2021 at 9:04 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:

Ok, they got back to me straight away on Bank holiday Monday, so good service. they will make a custom towbar if I take the vehicle down, to incorporate a removable swan neck hitch, the cost, £875 + vat. That includes the fitting, but not the wiring or socket.

So I think I will stick with the standard bar, which they can make in 7 to 10 days, which is £131 + vat inc p+p. Wiring and towball extra.

Or as they helpfully sent me a copy of the original fitting instruction containing a list of all the steel used I may well make my own, its all bolt together with no welding required.

Ralph.

Looking for a lightweight caravan now. 

Ralph.

Edited April 6, 2021 by Ralph Whitaker

[stuart]

56 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Looking for a lightweight caravan now. 

Ralph.

Something like this https://www.go-pods.co.uk/home.html

Stuart.

[Mick Forey]

Ralph, make sure it is very lightweight. I had a terrifying experience of towing a not-so-lightweight caravan down to Cornwall with my TR6 in the late '80s. No problem with power going uphill but on the steep downhill stretches of the A38, the caravan wanted to be in front. Relieved to get home and never towed it again with the TR.

Mick

[Ralph Whitaker]

1 hour ago, Mick Forey said:

Ralph, make sure it is very lightweight. I had a terrifying experience of towing a not-so-lightweight caravan down to Cornwall with my TR6 in the late '80s. No problem with power going uphill but on the steep downhill stretches of the A38, the caravan wanted to be in front. Relieved to get home and never towed it again with the TR.

Mick

I am looking for something that falls bellow the 750kg towing limit, not that I need it, but because my kids can borrow it without having to take another test. My favorite so fay is a 2 berth Freedom at 600kg unladen. Also easier for me to handle when hitching up as I get older.

Ralph