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Propshaft vibration


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Hi,

I've a '63 TR4 and at around 55-60 mph (NZ speed limit) I get a significant vibration. Reading the forum the culprit appears to be the propshaft.

i did read that the orientation of the prop can affect the vibration. Haven't a clue how... Mine has the short end to the diff. Am I right in thinking it should be the other way round? If mine is back to front how much effort is required to get the prop out and in its correct orientation. Ideally I don't want to remove the gearbox cover and interior. Any top tips apppreciated plus an estimate of time as wanting to do the job between other weekend tasks.... Mine has OD.

Many thanks Darran

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I think you are right, I have a TR3 and asked the same question and was told the sliding joint should be at the gearbox end. However that may not be the cause of the vibration as I have seen posts on here regarding a balance weight that was fitted on the back of the TR4 gearbox, to balance out a harmonic vibration that could get severe enough to damage the gearbox casing, so I would investigate that further too.

Ralph.

 

Found this under HARMONIC BALANCER on TR4/4a forum. Sorry cannot work out how to copy the Link so copied and pasted it here, but worth searching for as quite a lot of replies.

Duts

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Location:ESSEX

Cars Owned::Classic cars,Classic motorbikes,Golf,Real ale

Posted August 15, 2010

I would like to hear peoples views with regard to the fitting or not of the harmonic damper, the large lump of metal which is attached to the rear of the gearbox casing by means of an exhaust type bracket and it's use is intended to stop vibration.

This seems to me to only be fitted to four cylinder cars and not to all of them,I currently have my tunnel off so if I need one now is a good time to fit one.

Does anyone out there have a spare unit I could purchase?

Best regard Lee

Edited by Ralph Whitaker
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I can’t help with the detection of the origin (consider tyres, suspension, propshaft etc) of the vibration but here are some observations around the propshaft :

The sliding shaft end goes onto the gearbox tail pinion.

The propshaft was balanced at the factory all those years ago on assembly - you will see a square balance piece welded to the shaft, should you eventually remove the shaft

You should see a dimple punched on the rim of the gearbox pinion and on that of the propshaft, these should be aligned. Likewise there are dimples on the two pinions at the rear to be aligned.

Check that all the nuts and bolts are tight and that the couplings have no play.

If you remove the propshaft - a fiddle but not difficult - check that the punched arrow at the front of the ‘fixed’ part of the propshaft is aligned with that on the front sliding yolk, they can be misaligned when refitting after a change of couplings.

james

 

 

 

 

 

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Just out of curiosity Darran, give sus a bit more information, about the vibration.

Can you drive through it, or does it just get worse?

Is it through the floor pan, and seats or the steering wheel?

Does it go away if you knock the car into neutral at the offending speed? - Classic propshaft that.

John.

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Thanks. 

The vibration is way more significant than a wheel, if I drive though it say 65 mph it's still there but less pronounced. It's felt through the entire car - rather violent  compared to a wheel imbalance. Into neutral and it's doesn't disappear nor a quick depress of clutch. Will get under the car the car and start looking this weekend. It had a full body off restoration 20 years ago and I'm the second owner since then, worth checking the drive assembly over as it's frustrating that the vibration coincides at highway cruising speed so much that I can't safely drive it at that speed without the fear of the car shaking apart.

D

ps I will swap the prop to its correct way round and do another test plus check UJs etc

Edited by Darranh
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Hi Darren,

IF it doesn't disappear when you take the drive off, I would be looking elsewhere other than the prop.

Take it off, by all means, check it thoroughly, both U/J's if it was all tight anyway, that the diff and gearbox flanges do not have really excessive rock, and then refit in the proper location, but don't be disheartened if you still have the vibration.

Have you always had this, or has it come in gradually or suddenly?

Look to an out of round tyre/wheel assembly, just jack up and spin each wheel in turn, see if there is any excessive lift, or run out anywhere.

John.

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If it did suddenly appear then it could be something that happened to me many decades ago (5 actually) a circlip from the front UJ came out of it's groove, & the yoke moved sideways, causing a horrendous vibration, which actually cracked the gearbox to overdrive adapter plate. This was on the M3 returning home from my honeymoon.

After finding the cause, I pushed the yoke back into position, & carefully continued my journey. Surprisingly it stayed put, & I made it home.

Bob

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  • 1 year later...

I have a similar issue and assumed it was wheel balance. In desperation I bought a set of balancing cones from Smoothride (He makes them and supplies to other firms). This has improved driving comfort and the balance was a mile out when tested.

However I still have a vibration/noise at 60 mph plus (I haven't had the opportunity to try and drive through it yet but I suspect there is something else not quite right.

Due to have the car on the ramps at John Morrison's shortly so we will have a chance of inspecting the propshaft visually then. As my car has a J type o/d it doesn't have a balance weight and don't know if this is the cause. I'd hate to do any damage to the gearbox.

Andy

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My '3 has a strange symptom, at speeds around 60, I can drive along with no vibration, but if I go round a curve, some vibration sets in, & it will eventually go away when I go round another curve.  I suspect two of the wheels on opposite sides of the car are slightly out of balance, & depending where they are rotation wise they either cancel out the vibration, or enhance it.  I have had all 4 (steel) wheels balanced more than once, & the effect carried on even when I changed from 4½" rims to 5½" ones. I'm wondering if the hubs are out of balance, or rear drums perhaps.

It's not a big deal, just a bit annoying.

Bob

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30 minutes ago, Lebro said:

My '3 has a strange symptom, at speeds around 60, I can drive along with no vibration, but if I go round a curve, some vibration sets in, & it will eventually go away when I go round another curve.  I suspect two of the wheels on opposite sides of the car are slightly out of balance, & depending where they are rotation wise they either cancel out the vibration, or enhance it.  I have had all 4 (steel) wheels balanced more than once, & the effect carried on even when I changed from 4½" rims to 5½" ones. I'm wondering if the hubs are out of balance, or rear drums perhaps.

It's not a big deal, just a bit annoying.

Bob

Drums are heavy enough to be a possibility, especially as you say after cornering it appears then disappears with an opposite corner.

Stuart.

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I will put them on my wheel balancing jig next time I take them off !

(jig consists of a front hub on stub axle, bearings not greased, but oiled to give very free rotation)

Balancing.thumb.jpg.40332a1fda53ad504948069d44a094a4.jpg

Bob

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