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Lock Down Madness - Part 2 (or possibly 3)


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Hi Folks,

I'll be glad when this confinement is over. I keep finding rubbish to do on the car. I want to drive it   aaaarrrrggghhhhh.

Anywho, for all the viewers that have been keeping up with my other madness on the 4A electric windows I came across another problem that needed an urgent answer.

I made a new central dash support to allow switches for the electric motors in the door windows. The central support is fitted and looks pretty damn good (if I say so myself)

Fitting the controls that poke through it I found that the wiper switch thread was too short.  This was created by the foam sponge under the new leather cover on the support.

The original support had all the control surrounds depressed so the bezels would fit.

So I needed a new bezel that had a deeper body with a reduced diameter so that it could sit in the leather/sponge and reach the switch thread.  See PIC 1

 

In the past I have made my own bezels as the chromed supplied ones are tatty (even when new). However when I re-addressed the bezel tools I used I was not over impressed at their consistent shape.  So I started again. Sadly I forgot how I made the bits and pieces. 

These Bezels need either a 3 or 6 prong tool that engages with the slots on the side.  The 3 or 6 prong tool to do/undo the bezels starts off as a 1.25"dia round bar.

This fits snugly into a holder that I made. The holder has a replaceable plate on one end that has 3 or 6 holes in (I prefer 3 prongs) so that the bezel Tool blank can be drilled to accept the pins (prongs)   See Pic 2

 

The replaceable plate can be replaced with another plate that allows the bezel blank to be drilled.

The Dividing Head – see PIC 3

Now, regarding these plates.     I know I made something similar a few years ago but for the love of me I couldn't remember how to mark 6 equi-distant holes on a scribed circle.               Yes, yes, yes I know now but it's a bit late.   I decided to buy a dividing head. I found the price and decided to make a dividing head.

I have a 4" x 4 jaw chuck with a plain backing. I then turned up a base plate to accept the plain backing of the chuck. This can now rotate with no play.                                                  The base plate is held in a vice on the milling machine. I fitted a pointer into the base plate so that it could align with similar pointer in the mill chuck. You need the base plate to be aligned with the drill centre so the chuck is also aligned. I found that the hard way.  see PIC 4

The Bezels -

The Bezels have 6 indentations. These are simple drill holes in a round bar that is then turned down to size to reveal ½ holes.   See Pic 5

So you have the large diameter of the bezel and also a smaller diameter that these indentation make.     I needed two templates –                                                                                      one, to drill the holes for the bezel do/undoing tool .

one, to make the bezel indentations.

Bezel tool

If you are using 1/16" prongs on the Bezel tool, as I am, then you take the small diameter and add 1/16" and this will give the diameter to drill the template to drill the holes for the bezel do/undoing tool

see Pic 6

 

Bezel indentations -

The other template has 6 holes set at the same diameter as above but the holes are now 0.072" diameter to allow a small amount of free play for the pins to fit.

The blank and tool holder were aligned in the 4 jaw chuck at the diameter as above - for this bezel it was 1.055" diameter. I used an engine crank timing disc to give me a degree reading. In theory rotating it 60 degrees at a time should give all 6 positions. You can also find the 6 positions by using the Radius to mark off the six position on the scribed circle..  They almost aligned doh!!

With the bezel tool drilled (apprx 7mm deep) the pins can be inserted

With the holes drilled into the bezel blank the blank can now be mounted in a decent 4 jaw chuck on the lathe. I use a 4 jaw chuck so that the drill holes can be centralised.

Turning the Bezel to size.

The central hole for the switch is drilled to the tapping size ( for the 9/16” x 28tpi) this is ½” diameter. And the hole tapped .     The recess on the front face can be cut – 3mm deep x 22mm diameter. The inner edge of the protruding lip is angled very slightly (10 dergres)        I made a lathe cutting tool to cut the outer diameter shape (slightly curved) and this can be cut in one go. The extended back spacer can be turned and then the job parted off.

So now the tools are made it is simple to make as many of the large bezels as I want/need. I could also make them from brass and get the Chrome plated.  Should I need the small bezels then the same process above can be employed.

 

I hope this makes sense.

Roger

 

 

 

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Edited by RogerH
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Yes Roger, you have too much time in your hands.   Why not just shave down the foam under the switch so it sits down flush enough to engage the threads?

Cheers

Dan

PS your hardware looks great and I have no idea whether any other solution is possible anyway

 

Edited by 2long
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Hi Folks,

shortly after taking my medication last night I had this marvelous idea - how to make a turning handle for my improvised dividing head.

All the best dividing heads have a turning handle.

Get a large diameter jubilee clip cut both ends off but leave enough of the band to wrap around the circumference of the 4" x 4 jaw chuck.

Firmly attach the band with the thread outermost so that you can see it.  The thread will now form a continuous (unimpeded) worm drive around the chuck

Remove the screw from its housing and simply :blink: mount in such a way  that it runs in its thread.

You could use a 6" 1/4 drive ratchet to turn it and then calibrate 360 degrees of ratchet movement into degrees on the dividing head.

Will I make this - no

Have I a need for it - No

Dreams

 

Roger

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Roger.

How would you have seamlessly joined the ends of the band, to allow continuous rotation ?

It struck me, watching the huge exercise the above chap went through to make his:

a) He obviously had an accurately calibrated rotating drive which he used to position the brake disk for drilling so why does he need anything else.

b) Why not simply drill his little countersunk holes direct in the chuck - why go to all the effort to modify the brake disk

His lathe looked to be the same as mine, except I havn't got that fancy part he used to make the domed end to his knurled knob :o

& thought using a file to finish it was a cop out ! (sort of thing I have done would never do)

Bob

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11 hours ago, Lebro said:

Roger's version looked quicker to make.

 

I agree   I too have used a timing disc in a similar fashion.

 

Print your own degree scales.

https://www.blocklayer.com/timing-tape.aspx

 

Peter W

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Moss sell a pair of bezel tools, which cater for the two sizes found on most (all?) TRs.  PN 384-960.

Makes the job easier, especially if a bezel is really tight - that's the situation where one all too easily scrapes the dash if using snipe-nose pliers.

Ian Cornish

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10 minutes ago, ianc said:

Moss sell a pair of bezel tools, which cater for the two sizes found on most (all?) TRs.  PN 384-960.

Makes the job easier, especially if a bezel is really tight - that's the situation where one all too easily scrapes the dash if using snipe-nose pliers.

Ian Cornish

Wrong bezel tool I think

try image.png.a8cd94da5bd50003a84cc6d25e8231d2.png

 

Moss item  image.png.7fcc541eb8fd74539dfb960746c6633d.png

 

Another option is to 3d print the bezel tool .....

That'll fill your afternoon up.

 

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I have a set of bezel tools and one for the ignition switch as well, I bought them from the US many years ago.

Stuart.

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31 minutes ago, ianc said:

Moss sell a pair of bezel tools, which cater for the two sizes found on most (all?) TRs.  PN 384-960.

Makes the job easier, especially if a bezel is really tight - that's the situation where one all too easily scrapes the dash if using snipe-nose pliers.

Ian Cornish

Hi Ian,

no good for the 6 indent bezels.

 

Roger

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21 hours ago, ianc said:

Moss sell a pair of bezel tools, which cater for the two sizes found on most (all?) TRs.  PN 384-960.

Makes the job easier, especially if a bezel is really tight - that's the situation where one all too easily scrapes the dash if using snipe-nose pliers.

Ian Cornish

Using an old flat head screwdriver (with rounded over end), works well. Used as a chisel, tapping lightly using a small hammer of mallet. It works for both loosening and tightening. With care it does this without damaging the bezel or surrounding vinyl.

TT

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...but so much more satisfying to have the right tool. Better still if you've made the tool yourself. And the ultimate satisfaction can only be achieved if you've made your own tool to make the aforementioned tool. Go Roger :D

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