Jump to content

Recommended Posts

While fitting the new hoses, I spent a long time trying to squeeze the top hose around the thermostat housing and on to the radiator. Finally I put the question on Google , hoping for a YouTube instruction. The top reply was a post by Roger H, who explained how best to do it about 10 years ago.  He suggested removing the thermostat housing. It came off easily and TR bitz are sending me a new gasket in the post today. Quick service for a sale of less than 50p.  The new hose is a close fit but will push on. I am very pleased with the quality.

But I have a Kenlowe sensor to push in first. The sleeve that they supply will not fit over the radiator pipe. I have tried serious stretching but no good, including boiling water. My answer is to cut the sleeve on the underside and smear a little adhesive so that it does not ruck up when I push the hose over it, already a tight fit with no sleeve.  So I have some plumbers silicon grease which should be safe on the rubber and the aluminium. Then, with the sleeve attached and the hose soft and slippery inside. it should slide on easily

This is the plan for the next two days. Can anyone point up any mistakes , or potential disasters on a motorway in France , in the long term future.

Thanks Richard & B.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My experience with the Kenlowe rubber sleeve was that, once dismantled, it was near impossible to get the little b****r to seal again.

The real solution is a thermostatic switch in the pipe which returns coolant from the bottom of the radiator to the pump.  Whilst I know that Revington can supply the parts, I believe that others do.  Switches are available with different settings.

I don't know whether anyone supplies a temperature sensor and adjustable switch which can be mounted into the metal pipe - might be worth investigating if one wants to be able to play with the setting rather than have it operate at a pre-set level.

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 for a sensor in the metal "bottom hose"pipe.  Useful to have an override switch also, so you can switch the fan on if approaching a traffic jam on a hot summer day

Bob.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Lebro said:

+1 for a sensor in the metal "bottom hose"pipe.  Useful to have an override switch also, so you can switch the fan on if approaching a traffic jam on a hot summer day

Bob.

+1 for the override switch with a warning light. My light comes on with the fan either auto or manual. 
 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I have the original Kenlowe bracket with its lamp and override switch. 

Three of us in the Thames Valley Group got together and the Kenlowe kit cost each of us £15-6-0 (old money!) 12/2/71.

I had to replace the lamp a few years ago, but always useful to have that switch near my left hand, just in case.

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

My daily driver has had a manually operated fan since I bought it 45 years ago. I turn it on when needed.

An instrument scan becomes 2nd nature and a failed sensor will never be a problem.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is very helpful to have so many answers. But I am continuing with the capillary until it breaks. 

Today I used 6 tea spoon handles under the sleeve on a short bit of pipe a similar size to the radiator pipe. It was then possible to push and lever the sleeve into place. I was very pleased with the result. There was no cutting needed.  After a sandwich break I offered the new hose up and it was a tight fit without the sleeve, but with the sleeve in place the hose began to push the sleeve on further. I checked the old one that came out and it showed signs of being folded at the last installation. This may account for a small leak which I could never see. 

The plan for tomorrow is to use some silicone sealant to help slide the hose on smoothly and this will also help to seal the capillary sender. I shall leave it for a few days before any fluid. It is Top Gun  multi purpose sealant and is waterproof and remains flexible, for interior and exterior use.

Is this a mistake or will it seal my top hose for years in all weathers ??  If it does not work I will go for the thermoswitch in the lower hose.

Thanks for any advice. Richard & B

Link to post
Share on other sites

When fitting a new top hose on my 3A I usually loosen off, at the rear, the two radiator support braces that fit to the brackets on the inner wings.

The radiator, or at least mine as its bottom brackets are mounted on thick rubber washers, can then  be pivotted forrard a few cms and life becomes a lot easier.

You will regret sealing anything around a water hose......

james

Edited by james christie
Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, james christie said:

When fitting a new top hose on my 3A I usually loosen off, at the rear, the two radiator support braces that fit to the brackets on the inner wings.

The radiator, or at least mine as its bottom brackets are mounted on thick rubber washers, can then  be pivotted forrard a few cms and life becomes a lot easier.

You will regret sealing anything around a water hose......

james

Exactly what I do. Creates just enough wiggle room.

Iain

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/3/2021 at 1:36 PM, Hamish said:

+1 for the override switch with a warning light. My light comes on with the fan either auto or manual. 
 

Ditto, I find it very reassuring!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Richard

A related story. In France a few years ago a convoy buddy in an MGA had a top hose go and knowing it was suspect, had packed both top & bottom hose spares (as the job was a bugger)

In hind sight he agreed it was even more of a bugger in our hotel car park, go figure, we landed up taking the whole rad out.

However, the relevant part of the story is refitting the Kenlow sender, and our failure to get it to seal. In the end I landed up making a new seal out of the old hose with the help of a sharp craft knife, you can still see the Jubilee clip crease.

Good bit of re-cycling and a useful tip as the old hose has, by default, a perfect profile !  So hang onto you old hose . . . . . and pack a sharp knife

20160517_113809.jpg

Edited by North London Mike
Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't know the diameter of the Kenlowe sensor cable but when I temporarily fitted a sensor connected to an electronic  temp reader as part of my overheating root cause analysis, I scored a very small depression on the inside of the rad' / thermo housing hose. Secured it with a smear of mastic. Once dry, wrangled to hose onto the thermo housing and over two small screwdrivers with the sensor cable between them to avoid dislodging it. Then gently moved the screwdrivers and the hose secured itself  on the housing. The wrangling was bloody difficult, but where there is a will...Then secured the hose at the thermo end with two jubilee clips. Never a leak. My cable may have been narrower than the Kenlowe one though.

Having just read this, just go for the lower hose thermo Richard!

Miles

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to Mike and Miles, both posts arrived after I fitted a new sleeve and the new top hose to the radiator . I used some silicon lubrication made for Marley plumbing connections. The sleeve on the car was very cold after a cold night  and did not want to slide even when pushed by hand, which was good because I was worried about it shifting when the hose arrived. The hose was warm and slippery. It slid on easily and  the sleeve did not move at all. I have tightened the hose clip almost fully. I am leaving it for a few days and then will fit the thermostat housing with my vintage sealer Red Hylomar. There seems to be no point in filling the radiator with rain water when I will not be out on the road for some time yet. 

At the start of all this I noticed that none of the hose clips were  fully tightened. I suppose that the old hoses had shrunk and that my regular service should include checking hose clips.

Thanks Richard & B

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:

Thanks to Mike and Miles, both posts arrived after I fitted a new sleeve and the new top hose to the radiator . I used some silicon lubrication made for Marley plumbing connections. The sleeve on the car was very cold after a cold night  and did not want to slide even when pushed by hand, which was good because I was worried about it shifting when the hose arrived. The hose was warm and slippery. It slid on easily and  the sleeve did not move at all. I have tightened the hose clip almost fully. I am leaving it for a few days and then will fit the thermostat housing with my vintage sealer Red Hylomar. There seems to be no point in filling the radiator with rain water when I will not be out on the road for some time yet. 

At the start of all this I noticed that none of the hose clips were  fully tightened. I suppose that the old hoses had shrunk and that my regular service should include checking hose clips.

Thanks Richard & B

Did you check the length of the new top hose compared to the distance between the thermostat housing and the radiator?  If too long you will be speaking in tongues when you come to fit the assembly.

The hose length for your car should be around 4.75" total.  

Peter W

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Peter. I did measure and removed about 1/4" off each end of the top hose. I had the radiator fixings all removed but it would not tilt forward at all. I think it is the special ducting that I fitted to make all the incoming air pass through the radiator. It is all fitted back now.

I am trying the grease on a jam jar with a seal full of water/antifreeze to test if there is any problems before I fill the radiator. No hurry in this weather. 

Thanks Richard & B

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

The car has been out on a trial run to the shop and the top hose showed no leaks or problems. I have also run the engine up to temperature a couple of times in the garage. When I took off the old hose I noticed that the Kenlowe sleeve had been folded over at the lower edge and it was amazing that I never had a leak before. The new seal is smooth and tight and is definitely not folded. I tested the sealer on a jam jar with a screw on lid and after a week it showed no signs of a leak.

In case it turns out that the fan seal is damaged by the sealer/lubricant I looked for new supplies. No one seemed to have any stock until I sent Kenlowe themselves a request for a supplier. They sold me two by post on the same day.

So I think that problem is solved for the moment.

Thanks Richard & B

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.