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My TR6 is very new to me and I am sorting out various items on the car as I check over various parts.

I am trying to understand why my clutch contact point is extremely early in the peddle movement. I have to be very careful as the clutch bites with the pedal only just off full depression.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Is it in fact normal?

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When the clutch is not depressed dose the bar coming out of the slave cylinder have free play ? [ not under pressure ]

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Air in the system ? when you pump the pedal dose it get better ?

what size master cylinder .70 or .75 

May be too much free play at the slave ?

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Check the length of the pushrod from the master cylinder? if the cylinder has been replaced at some time, the push rod is not always correct.

 

Edited by alan57
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This is a common issue on our cars. Quite a few things can cause it, such as wear in the clevis pin joints from the pedal to the master cylinder, air in the system or worn out master cylinder and or slave cylinder, and if the slave cylinder is mounted correctly etc.

Best to assess each area as it'll all add up to different pedal travel should there be any issues.

I had an issue bleeding the system because the slave cylinder was mounted so the bleed nipple was the wrong way round making an air bubble hard to remove, also had to refurbish the master cylinder with new seals as it was leaking, also my pedal box was so loose due to worn out bushings all contributing to a very low bite point. 

Good luck with the car and getting things working a bit better. 

Gareth

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As one of the other posters said there can be an issue with the length of the pushrod from the master cylinder. When I replaced the master cylinder the clutch did not work due to insufficient travel on the hydraulic circuit. On close inspection the push rod assembly on the new cylinder was short – the overall length was 83mm compared to 88 on the original part. I swapped the actuating rod for the old one and the clutch worked. You will need to check that - the correct replacement item from Rimmer is 122296 (at least for my car a 1970 model). The new ones have thicker cheeks where the clevis pins go through so you will also require a pin of the correct length. The thicker section is good as even a small amount of wear there contributes to a lack of clutch movement.

 

Good luck

 

ClutchLengths.jpg

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16 hours ago, Malcolm Smith said:

My TR6 is very new to me and I am sorting out various items on the car as I check over various parts.

I am trying to understand why my clutch contact point is extremely early in the peddle movement. I have to be very careful as the clutch bites with the pedal only just off full depression.

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Is it in fact normal?

I would check the clevis pin holes for ovality. Some of my holes were an 1/8" of an inch or more out of round? This was part of the problem which I got after having owned the car for 10 years. Got rid of the ovality. The other problem was that I had the small bore master cylinder, as it is a 73 car. I then went over to the original larger bore, no problems since. That was 30 years ago.

Bruce

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Shorter master cylinder pushrod was fitted to all LHD TR5/250/6 cars.  When compared to RHD.

The other change was master cylinder bore diameter dropping from 0.75” (3/4”) to 0.070”. That was nothing to do with Left or Right hand drive.
 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thank you all for your replies.

I have fully checked the system and found the following issues.

Whilst the hydraulic system was free from air the fluid was seriously contaminated. The slave cylinder was full of sludge as well as the master cylinder reservoir. Cleaning and bleeding the system has restores around 80% pedal travel. The bushes in the clutch and brake pedals are seriously warn and will be replaced. Hopefully this should resolve the issue. The forks and clevis pins are all good.

Many thanks again for your kind assistance.

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This is great news, hopefully you'll get enough travel once you've sorted this bushes. 

Gareth

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