jhk Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 Hi Forum Brothers/Sisters ... I am part way through changing to Goodridge brake hoses on my 1966 IRS TR4A. The fronts where straight forward .... although I found the threaded section of the G hoses are shorter than the old (+/ 2008) rubber hoses, and the G lock nuts are thicker than the old ones. Could be challenging if the hard line nut had longer engagement. Now to the rears tucked in between tub and rear suspension.. I have Googlde and found a good thread explaining to remove the 3 way block to get the LH side hoses removed/installed. As for the RH nestled back in there. .. I have not found a technique. A chap on U Tube posted a flip titled rear brake hose on TR6. Unfortunately he just showed how difficult changing would be .. but gave no practical help. Please can I access the Forum for hints n tips. PS.. I am not up to removing the tub... Stay safe. Man Txs, Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 First picture Jim. No need to remove three way union. Undo the nut on the brake line (trailing arm) Undo the securing nut, pull free. Then undo the hose end to three way union. There will be a copper sealing washer and renew this as a matter of course. Reverse operation and away you go. The other side will be self explanatory. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Herlihy Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Jim, Not too difficult but only with the right tools (as ever). I've just done this job on my TR6 but the rear driveshafts, springs etc were off as I have been fitting stepped studs to the trailing arms prior to upgrading the back end. In my case access to the O/S inner face was fine using a 9/16 brake pipe spanner. I'm guessing your suspension is all still intact in which case ideally you need a 9/16 crows foot spanner, 3/8 or 1/4 drive depending on your tool kit. You can then work in from the side with an extension, reach behind and loosen the brake pipe nut and the half nut on the end of the flexible. Trouble is if the star washer and the accumulated corrosion are doing their job the support bracket will bend. No problem however. Simply cut the flexible off. You can then use a 9/16 deep reach socket with another extension to go over the pipe end to support the whole lot whilst you slacken off the two nuts on the inboard side with your crows foot. Once things are moving you can of course use the 9/16 socket to simply unscrew the pipe and hold the half nut with the crows foot. Hope this helps. All the best, Mike Edited January 31, 2021 by Mike Herlihy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jhk Posted February 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Many Thanks Harry and Mike, Your responses are very helpful. I will go buy some crow foot spanners and get on with the job. Cheers, Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jhk Posted March 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2021 On 2/1/2021 at 4:29 PM, jhk said: Many Thanks Harry and Mike, Your responses are very helpful. I will go buy some crow foot spanners and get on with the job. Cheers, Jim Hi Guys, I went looking for crowsfoot spanners.. and got little confused as to the best type... meanwhile had a brain f**t to go at the RH side from car center line... SUCCESS. For right side ... First release the flexible line from swinging arm. Then with an open spanner release the hard line (the one upstream to the flexible line) lock nut ... approaching from car center line. Then with a open spanner stood vertically in the narrow space on the hex of the flexible line, I could back off the half lock nut behind the bracket with a regular socket. The installation of the Goodridge was in reverse. LESSON LEARNT ... first connect the new flexible line to the bracket on the chassis ... then the flexible line to hard line going to the caliper (with the half lock nut already on the threaded section of flexible line), ensuring a nice alignment of flexible line and hard line (as the car was up on chassis support blocks ... I did check the alignment when jacking the swinging arm up and lowering slowly .. took a couple of adjustments to not get a kink when stroking the swinging arm). Then insert the connection into the lug on the swinging arm and secure with half lock nut with slim open spanner. Then connect upstream hard line to flexible line... approaching from car center line with open spanner. For left side... After releasing the flexible line from the hard line going to the caliper, and releasing flexible line from the swinging arm lug, I was able to fit a box spanner over the line and back out the flexible line from the three way block. It was tight, but WD soaked over a few days, ensured no damage the the 3W block mounting. The installation of the Goodridge was in reverse. Pictures attached of Goodridge installed. Points of note: (a) The Goodridge hose threaded sections are not as long as the rubbers I had installed. The lock washers had to be jettisoned to ensure the hard line lock nuts fully engaged and I good a seal. (b) The Reaplacment Goodridge copper washer for sealing against the 3W block tricky to install as ID too large. Cheers Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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