Moliver Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 Hi All, I am in the process of assembling the sidescreen slide-in mounts and the side screens. The pictures show, how it looks like, if attached with tape. Before drilling the holes in the interior for the mount assembly, I appreciated feedback/confirmation: my doubts: 1) inside few:The front mount seems to be an inch too low- is the correct pos at the very top same as the rear ? (If so, the rod is too long and would have to be reduced in length) 2) Outside few: does the screen go below the roof part or on top. If below, its nice and tight but how should it slide there automatically when closing the door from the inside? 3) Screen front seal to front screen: There is a gap which I cannot close. When driving the wind may push the screen to the outside? Your (like always very valuable) input very welcome... Cheers Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Hi Oliver. Those sidescreens are not the "standard" ones, however, to answer some of your questions, the top of the side screen should be positioned ouside of the main hood fabric, but inside the flap, this is acheaved, after closing the door, buy flipping the flap over the sidescreen with your fingers from the inside. The front edge of the seal on the screen should be trapped between the windscreen stanchion & the plate which is sandwiched between the stanchion & the screen frame. Bob. Edited February 1, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 Hi Bob, Thanks for the input. Makes perfect sense to me. Considering the adjustments needed from the inside after closing the door, I do further understand, that the screens may not be used too often :-) Ref Your comment „.... not the standard ones...“, what do you mean? I am not sure about the aluminum support rods but the screens are most likely the originals from 1955 (USA reimport) what do you think? Cheers Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikej Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 Unless you have replaced it, the wood frame in the top of the doors would have 2 * 4 holes for the screws, this is where they should be mounted, Yours don't look wrong but they need to be 100% right. Well, they do if you use a standard S-Screen or intend to fit one one day. If the wood screws are loose consider glued-in apple or ash plugs before replacing the whole top frame. I'd find a good original SS and use it as a template. The two support legs are normally welded to the frame, and need to be! Good luck. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 I remember reading about theses a while ago. They were an aftrmarket sidescreen made by someone in the US. I like the idea of 2 sliding windows, but not sure about the alluminium frames. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted January 31, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 Thanks to all. Unfortunately, I do not have the holes in the wooden blocks as they were replaced during restoration. If the screens are really not original, I will rather look for some before drilling the holes..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 31, 2021 Report Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) Original ones have a steel frame, the mounting bars are welded to the frame, the front window is fixed (sewn into the vinyl covering) the rear window slides in a single channel There is no rubber round the edge, the vinyl is wrapped around the steel frame, & forms the front & top edges. I see you have a TR2 in which case an original sidescreen actually would not have had any sliding windows, just the fixed one full length. These may help although the later type for the TR3A: click on to enlarge Bob. Edited January 31, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alanwcoote Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Agree with Bob Those side screens are aftermarket AMCO American ones,the same as the ones I have for sale on bring and buy Regards Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 (edited) 21 hours ago, Moliver said: Thanks to all. Unfortunately, I do not have the holes in the wooden blocks as they were replaced during restoration. If the screens are really not original, I will rather look for some before drilling the holes..... Your best bet is to look for a set of sidescreen frames that you can then adjust (bend) to fit your car before you get them recovered. It is almost inevitable that any side screens that you buy will need a fair amount of fettling to get them to fit properly. Rgds Ian Edited February 1, 2021 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Is it just me, or do others find that they can never see pictures using photobucket. And what is "bring and buy"? Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 If you are using old sidescreens, with the sliding part, there is a sequence that I used. Make sure that the windscreen is secure and not at all flexible. Longer bolts and a self locking nut on the inside Fit the hardtop which helps make the windscreen secure Adjust the bare metal sidescreens so that they fit well at the windscreen and around the top edge of the hardtop. Find a trimmer who will cover the bare frames With the new sidescreens in place, fit the hood so that it covers the screens top edge When it rains pull over and fit the hood and stay dry. This worked for me until I put my old hood in place and there is a 1 1/2" gap over the drivers side screen. I am saving for a new hood now . Also it is hard to find a trimmer with the correct machine to cover the bare frames. It would be worth discussing how much the seams will overlap the frame so that you can get the windscreen connection correct. I also have an L shaped deflector fitted between the windscreen frame and the stanchion so that the connection does not have to be so critical. It keeps the wind and rain away. Good luck Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Something to note is also the position of the lift the dot pegs on the doors. These are different for cars with Dzus sidescreens, with the ridged bottom. The lift the dots on earlier cars for flap bottoms are higher up the door panel, fitting later screens especially with a Hardtop can be difficult as the sidescreen is too high up when clearing the lift the dot pegs and fouls the Hardtop Cantrail. My car is a very early 3a with wedge sidescreens originally permanently affixed for rallying. When sold off by the “works” it had later Dzus sidescreens fitted, which where a very tight fit as they crashed into the lift the dot pegs and hit the cantrail. You will see on Bobs photo above that the pegs are hidden on his door, on a later car they are visible. If you look at the avatar photo you will see the permanently fixed flap bottom screens. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Herrod Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 My car was originally exported to the states and has the aluminium AMCO sidescreens. Because of the way the legs bolt onto the bottom of the aluminium frame, they are inevitably very flexible and I found that the only way I could stop them blowing out at the top was to bolt a small "catch" to the top of the leading edge which I could rotate down so that it hooked behind the windscreen tenon plate. It actually worked fairly well, but over time did chew up the tenon plate. I now have a set of steel frames which I will set up as Richard describes when/ if I ever get to that stage of putting the car back together. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 1 hour ago, iain said: Something to note is also the position of the lift the dot pegs on the doors. These are different for cars with Dzus sidescreens, with the ridged bottom. The lift the dots on earlier cars for flap bottoms are higher up the door panel, fitting later screens especially with a Hardtop can be difficult as the sidescreen is too high up when clearing the lift the dot pegs and fouls the Hardtop Cantrail. My car is a very early 3a with wedge sidescreens originally permanently affixed for rallying. When sold off by the “works” it had later Dzus sidescreens fitted, which where a very tight fit as they crashed into the lift the dot pegs and hit the cantrail. You will see on Bobs photo above that the pegs are hidden on his door, on a later car they are visible. If you look at the avatar photo you will see the permanently fixed flap bottom screens. Iain Agree, I changed the LTD to press studs on the doors, much lower profile Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 That’s a neat solution Bob. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted February 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2021 (edited) Hi All, Its me again with „sidescreen puzzles“: I have decided to pursue the recommended approach of finding replacements instead of bolting on the AMCOs: I do have two options however am wondering how access to the car (TR 2 without outside door handles) can be possible.Option one seems to be original but without zipper and rigid screen. Option two are obviously the remaining of an original TR 2 screen. It is a two piece version and I am wondering if the lower part is flexible and can be flipped in order to reach into the car...? Input welcome... Cheers Oliver Edited February 13, 2021 by Moliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 13, 2021 Report Share Posted February 13, 2021 (edited) 39 minutes ago, Moliver said: Hi All, Its me again with „sidescreen puzzles“: I have decided to pursue the recommended approach of finding replacements instead of bolting on the AMCOs: I do have two options however am wondering how access to the car (TR 2 without outside door handles) can be possible.Option one seems to be original but without zipper and rigid screen. Option two are obviously the remaining of an original TR 2 screen. It is a two piece version and I am wondering if the lower part is flexible and can be flipped in order to reach into the car...? Input welcome... Cheers Oliver Yes the simple rigid window and flappy bottom side screen frames you have pictured are suitable for TR2. The flap can be raised to enable access to the internal opening cable. Remember to re clip before driving. The zipped access I found to be difficult to use as the zip would stick or jam plus your coat catches on the teeth of the zip as you reach in. Peter W PS. The leg spacing of original early wedge type sidescreens is narrower than original later Dzus type. Found this out when I fitted Later Dzus TR3A doors to my early TR3A that had wedge sidescreens. Screw holes for the wedge pockets does dot match Dzus bracket screw holes. Have gone to the dark side and fitted Dzus type sidescreens and moved the ltd peg on the quarter panel that the sidescreen now hits. Edited February 13, 2021 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted February 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2021 Hi, Thanks for the feedback. The lower part is not attached to the upper directly? So just sewn into a Vinyl pocket? Has anybody pictures of this version available that I could share with my saddlery? How is the plexi screen fitted and held into position ( as there is no rail...? Input very welcome Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 13, 2021 Report Share Posted February 13, 2021 Sewn into place between inner & outer vinyl. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted February 14, 2021 Report Share Posted February 14, 2021 I would be tempted at your stage to go for the early type of TR3 arrangement. Still has the mazak socket fitting and hinged flap, but with the benefit of a sliding window for access, and importantly, ventilation. See pic below courtesy of Bill Piggott`s Original TR book. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted February 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2021 Hi Ralph, I think this would be my preference as well if I could find a used pair in good condition. Just ran into a zipper model which seems to be original but with odd fastener holes at the bottom ... Neither Tenax not lift the dot ? Cheers Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted February 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Hi Ralph, I think this would be my preference as well if I could find a used pair in good condition. Just ran into a zipper model which seems to be original but with odd fastener holes at the bottom ... Neither Tenax not lift the dot ? Cheers Oliver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Moliver Posted February 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Would such wedges (offered at ebay) enable fitting TR 3 sidescreens to a TR2 cast mount? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 Original fixing for Tr2 and Tr3 with the various versions of the flap bottom sidescreens used wedge fasteners. Very early 3a’s still used wedge fasteners, they had the flap bottom, sliding window screens. Only after this point early in 1958 did the cars start to use Dzus fastening screens. So the answer is yes if you have genuine Tr3 wedge sidescreen frames. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 17, 2021 Report Share Posted February 17, 2021 2 hours ago, Moliver said: Would such wedges (offered at ebay) enable fitting TR 3 sidescreens to a TR2 cast mount? Yes, that can work. I know because that is how mine were for a few years. Last year I had had enough of banging my elbow on the rear drivers door socket, so I have now converted to the dzus fastener plates which the screens were designed for. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.