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After two years, I thought that it was time to change the anti freeze in my 3A . So I took off the sump shield and there was a trace of some coolant ,but nothing on the garage floor . It appeared to have come from the lower hose connection to the radiator. So today I removed the two lower hoses and the connecting tube. Last time I filled up with Bluecol ,  the same hose had a drip. I tightened the hose clip and it was dry. So this time I decided to change the hose. I have one Kevlar reinforced one in the spares box. Once the unit was off the car I could identify the spare was for the upper hose. 

So shall I buy the regular connector or the silicon reinforced option from Moss. They also do a full kit which seems to be £143.00 !   There is also a kit on ebay for £39.00 which is a lot less than Moss, but may be lower quality. 

I need some advice from someone who understands quality hoses.

Thanks Richard & B

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I fitted regular mesh reinforced epdm rubber hoses as the silicon ones were a sloppy fit, which equals impossible to get water tight.

As for all the chat about coating the joints with some goo I feel that is an admission that the hoses supplied are the wrong size.  

The use of wire band type clamps is considered more effective than flat jubilee type clips.   Rubber moves away from where it is being clamped so the spring wire clip is perhaps even better as it gives consistent clamping force.   Problem is having tools to fit it and being able to source an imperial sized clip.

 

Peter W

 

image.jpeg

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I spent a long time getting the 4 pot top hoses remade correctly. I still visually inspect and test every one for length and fit on a  thermostat housing cover to be able maintain my confidence in the item’s fit.   We remade that hose as the product more commonly supplied was horribly too long and the wrong id.  
Note. There is a length difference between side screen top hoses and those fitted to wind up window cars.  Side screen are shorter by about 3/8”.

Moss offer that top hose for sale.

Peter W

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The hoses have to be too tight when cold,

because hot and under pressure in the car they become wider.

To fit new and "too tight" ones it is a good idea to put it for 10 minutes in very hot water.

You will see how much easier you get it fitted.

I fitted the standard quatity from Bastuck 10 years ago and after several times in and out I see no  reason for new ones.

 

Edited by Z320
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10 hours ago, Lebro said:

I have gone for silicon (from the TR shop) they seem well made, & have no problem sealing.

Bob.

Mine (also silicon) came from the TR Shop but I have a problem getting the top bent one to seal on both the outlet from the water pump and the steel tube. The water pump outlet has no lip against which to seal and the tube is a stainless one with a thermo switch boss welded in and is slightly smaller OD than the original it replaced. 

i use the best quality jubilee type clips I can get.

Rgds Ian

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Ian. I have the same pipes as you, I fitted the silicon hoses there, & also in the top hose position following my recent engine rebuild, they seemed to fit & seal ok.

I fitted a silicon bypass hose a couple of years ago, & that has been 100% still on "normal" heater hoses.

Bob.

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13 hours ago, Z320 said:

The hoses have to be too tight when cold,

because hot and under pressure in the car they become wider.

To fit new and "too tight" ones it is a good idea to put it for 10 minutes in very hot water.

You will see how much easier you get it fitted.

I fitted the standard quatity from Bastuck 10 years ago and after several times in and out I see no  reason for new ones.

 

This sounds like a quality hose. Is there a supplier in the UK ?

Thanks Richard & B

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I have used standard Moss ones on both my TR2s and they last many many years. The ones on the daily driver have been there now for maybe 10 years, the ones they replaced probably 20 years.

I replaced them because I had the radiator out for a new core, not because they needed replacing.

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Thanks for the advice.  I have contacted Bastuck and they have stock of the reinforced connectors. But they do not take PayPal and also later explained that they were unable to send to the UK because of new regulations. I searched a bit more and discovered that there was a stockist in England who is only trade, but he supplies TR Enterprises. They have been very helpful and the new reinforced  hoses are out for delivery tomorrow.

I have 2 litres of Comma antifreeze at the back of the garage. It is antifreeze and summer coolant "SuperColdmaster"  . The label says Pure Ethylene Glycol contains Ethanediol. In my 3A this will give me protection down to -11 degrees C. It is also Nitrite, amine and phosphate free.

Is this safe for my engine ??

Thanks Richard & B

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New hoses arrived today. If it stays dry they will be in tomorrow. 
I checked the antifreeze with the maker Comma, and they confirmed that it is correct for classic cars.

iI will be using Radflush first and would it work better if it was left in the engine for 1/2 hour instead of 10 mins, as per the instructions.

Thanks Richard & B

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1 hour ago, Richardtr3a said:

New hoses arrived today. If it stays dry they will be in tomorrow. 
I checked the antifreeze with the maker Comma, and they confirmed that it is correct for classic cars.

iI will be using Radflush first and would it work better if it was left in the engine for 1/2 hour instead of 10 mins, as per the instructions.

Thanks Richard & B

I’d put the stuff in go for a drive of 1/2hr. Get the thing heat soaked.  I would also loop out the heater for fear of the dislodged crud blocking the heater matrix.   You can flush the heater with a hose pipe after.

See this about the rad cleaning issue.   
 

Perer W


 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thanks for the advice. I have replaced the four hoses on the radiator with Bastuck ones from TR enterprises. The heater connections were new last year and the old hoses which were removed were really hard. and cracking around the clip.

I am trying to see if there are any other rubber parts which have not been  replaced for a long time. The hydraulics  have all  been renewed in the last five years. What else am I missing??

Thanks Richard & B

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Heater hoses if fitted.  Petrol hoses from tank forward as Marco says. Might find gearbox, engine and diff seals have dried out if the car hasn't been run for a long time. Expect a few leaks above the normal.

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Sorry, I forgot!

If you have a vacuum box on your distributor check the rubber connections on both ends of the vacuum pipe.

The one I was able to buy have been all @&€!!?@ rubbish, so I use PVC hose pieces, on the carb wrapped with a wire spiral, otherwise it will fold!

Ciao, Marco

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