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Clutch slave cylinder


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Hi everyone - in case anyone is looking for an original master cylinder and matching slave cylinder, I have both items for sale which have been fully reconditioned by Past Parts - please see the attached link: the original post was in the " For Sale under £250 Forum" and was posted in February this year 

Items are still for sale and quite honestly, I'm not surprised as it's taken me over 45 minutes to find the post myself and I knew what I was looking for - the search function is really pathetic and I eventually found it by using Google as the search function!

Anyway, rant over - if anyone is interested, please PM me - I know it's expensive, but it wasn't cheap to get done and I couldn't bring myself to throw the original crusty parts away!

Cheers Rich

 

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I am sure this has been covered before but….

To search the forum forget the register built in search-it needs a lot of expertise to get it to work well. Use google instead. I type in:

tr2 forum clutch slave cylinder Lockheed

will bring up this thread. Still clunky but works a bit better and easier.

Use     tr4       etc in description for other forum sections  

Hope this helps

Keith

 

 

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19 hours ago, Brian Eldred said:

Sorry to resurrect this post, but I'm still having clutch problems.

The clutch 'feels' OK and engages with the pedal half way up, but engaging any gear is now hit and miss (it worked OK for a while, but I've only done 100 miles while resolving other issues...). When I look at the slave cylinder, I can manually push the push rod back a fair way - the spring isn't retracting it fully. Then the pedal goes most of the way down with little resistance and I have to pump it. Also, without the push rod retracting I don't know how to adjust the clearance.

Could it be a swollen hose inhibiting the return of the fluid? It's been sitting for 25 years but with silicon fluid.

The parts were bought new in 1997: TR6 slave cylinder UKC8677, TR2 hose GVP1001. I don't know which mounting plate I have. The original TR2 Lockheed cylinders are now available again, so is it worth replacing the lot? The only question that would leave me with is the correct length of the push rod.

Any further advice appreciated!

Brian

Brian, 

I would take off the external spring, push the pushrod fully back into the cylinder, then push the operating lever forward until you feel the release bearing hit the clutch, then adjust the pushrod leaving about 1/8 inch play. The play will be taken up the first time you use the clutch. Then re fit the spring, which probably does little more than stop the pushrod and lever rattling around. That should ensure you have full travel on the slave cylinder piston without the seal popping out or the piston hitting the end stop circlip (if fitted, I`m not sure if they have one)

Ralph

 

 

This should give you

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  • 2 weeks later...

Stuart's bracket was exactly the same as mine, so I must have already had the Lockheed one. The long face is curved, unlike the image in the Moss catalogue, The hole is the right size for the larger diameter Lockheed cylinder, but I still don't know what other difference there might be. So I've fitted a new Lockheed cylinder and hose, shortened the pushrod by about 8mm, adjusted it and bled it. The pushrod is still slightly off horizontal but it all seems to function OK, and the clutch engages about half way up the pedal travel..

However I've still got trouble changing gear, particularly changing down to 2nd. It feels very notchy, sometimes it's fine but at others I have to arm wrestle it in. My TR4a is much slicker. I'm hoping it's not a gearbox issue - it shouldn't be as it's a Pete Cox rebuild.

Brian

Clutch slave brackets.jpg

Clutch slave 3.jpg

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Just make sure that your slave cylinder is the correct side of the bracket.  The Lockheed ones and the Girling ones fit on different sides, one towards the front of the car and one towards the rear.  The TR2/3 WSM photo shows the early Lockheed variety.  I very nearly cut down my pushrod before I realised that if I swapped the slave cylinder to the other side it would fit with the pushrod without any modification.

Rgds Ian

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