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TR4 soft-top fitting to the front leading edge


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Hi Mates

I been trying for hours the get the leading edge of the soft-top to go in the "lip" on top of the screen, it seems to go in alright, but, when I go around to do the other side in comes out again , what's the trick?--Barry

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Long strip of gaffer tape.

Seriously though, start by pouring yourself a cold beer and think positive thoughts. It's a **** system but workable if you start in the middle, make sure the hood fabric with its stiffening bar is properly, fully under the lip - it may need some firm bangs with the heel of your hand - then work outwards both ways. You may need to gently adjust the retaining strip opening so that it grips exactly the right amount. Once you have it set up okay and the hood vinyl has learnt its place it does work (right until you hit about 60mph. :rolleyes: ).

Quick question, you do have a press stud (popper) at each end of the screen frame and soft top? (Just asking because I think I saw you've done a major resto).

Nigel

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The metal stiffeners in my repro hood (Surrey top actually but the same issue) were too thick to go fully under the screen capping. I replaced them with modellers brass strip and it’s now a really good fit and doesn’t come out at any speed. 

Edited by peejay4A
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Just now, peejay4A said:

The metal stiffeners in my repro hood were too thick to go fully under the screen capping. I replaced them with modellers brass strip and it’s now a really good fit and doesn’t come out at any speed. 

+1   but with a stainless strip

 

Roger

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I have a piece of 90mm x 20mm section softwood about 300mm long and use it to push the front edge with the metal strip into the screen capping.  I find that I cannot fully engage the front edge by hand and a gentle push using the wood usually sets it in place so that it doesn't come out when driving at speed.  I also start in the middle and work out to the "flaps" before engaging the press studs.

Another tip is to gently press on the top of the frame in order to release tension on the fabric.  When it springs back the hood fits good and tight with the front edge nicely in place.  Hope this helps.

Bob

Edited by Bobble
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Hi Mates

Thanks for the tips , I have the the press studs on the side , looks like the strips are too thick and the edge is only only going half in , will have another go , I'm thinking maybe some lubrication? will let you know how I go--Barry

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Hi Mates 

I took the strips out, the middle one was distorted /twisted ( after hours of trying to fit it?) , the outer ones seem fine , I could feel them going into position, so I put hacksaw blades in the middle section, and it fitted a lot better than before any problems , I will update--Barry

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7 hours ago, barrytr4 said:

Hi Mates 

I took the strips out, the middle one was distorted /twisted ( after hours of trying to fit it?) , the outer ones seem fine , I could feel them going into position, so I put hacksaw blades in the middle section, and it fitted a lot better than before any problems , I will update--Barry

 

005 (1).JPG

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  • 2 months later...

Hi mates--Still having problems w/ the soft-top  leading edge coming up , noticed the webbing's  at the back window are loose , I presume they have to be tight to pull the lip back into the ridge? but how tight?,, also the holes in the webbing have  elongated, I should of at least folded the ends, or do they need eyelets ie a metal ring around the holes

regards Barry

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Hi Barry,

The original metal strips are 0.070" thick (apprx).

The gap under the frame cap should not be too big but big enough to get the fabtic lip inserted.

As the fabric is tightened down the metal plates will cock over and jam.

The back of the fabric is then put in place and tightened down. The 'H' frame is then tensioned so that the fabric is taught. If it is slack the front will pop out.

The side flaps over the windows do nothing to hold the fabric in place.

Thanks to JJC on here I now have a template for the original metal strips if anybody is interested.

Below is a pic of my roof (not so pretty but functional)  The front edge sit in snuggly and as deep as the fabric will allow.

 

Roger

DSC_5045a.jpg

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It’s tightened by raising the centre bar of the H frame.  That’s done by moving the nuts at the rear where the H frame meets the backlight. Fiddly unless you have a pair of Roger’s (tubular) nuts in which case it’s a breeze. 

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Hi Barry,

 I have just realised something !! - do you have a soft top or a Surrey top.

I described the Surrey top in my last post.

For the soft top (convertible)  The webbing straps that attach to the rear deck and the frame should be tight enough to limit the forward movement of the frame.

So the assembly would be -  Raised the frame and push forward as far as possible. The over centre locking arm should be retracted.

The roof fabric is inserted snuggly into the frame cap gap.

The fabric buttoned down at the back

The over centre locking arms raised to tighten the fabric.   My new fabric is as tight as a drum skin (quite frightening) But it will hold the front in place.

If the webbing is too slack then the frame will tilt forward and not tighten the fabric.

If the webbing is too tight then the frame will be held too high and look odd.

Roger

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On my 4A, I had a hard top that came with car, but had to get a new soft top from Moss.

To get the new soft top to remotely look like fitting I had to undo the bolts at the bottom of the windscreen and pull it back to maximum rake. (The hard top still fitted [phew])

Getting the front edge in was a nightmare at first, found marking the centre of the soft top with whiteout, and marking the centre of the screen helped, plus tapping with a rubber mallet or such. First few goes it was too thick and didn't go fully in, the back was nowhere near going in, so I did a  bit of heavy stretching (see pic)

Eventually got the back bolted in. After doing this several times the front squished down a bit flatter, and got easier to put in all the way, making the back bit easier to fit.

After several more fittings of the soft top, the fitting became easy, the front went the whole way in, so did the rear.

 

 

IMG_0482.JPG

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Hi mates 

it's a full s/top, think I've sorted it out, I didn't fit the clasp on the webbing ( or fold it over) and it just pulled and slacken off, I think I can use the normal lift the dot clasps and a longer lift the dot pin? ( i did wonder what the longer pins were for at the timer?--Barry

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Barry You're correct the normal " lift the dot " clasps works OK on the two longer pins. If you have sufficient length 

left on the webbing , folding the fabric back , to double up  , makes a stronger job.

On the underside of the hood is a sewn in double flap , with poppers , that fixes the hood to the front bar of the frame.

When the car reaches high speeds , I found that the hood vibrates and the closed poppers "pinged / rattled " against the frame.

Not wanting to put up with this irritation , I wrap an old cloth beer mat around the front metal frame bar and then fix the three poppers. It's a snug fit and eliminates the vibration and attendant noise. An old tea towel / hand towel would work just as well. 

Bob

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I was always struggling with the top front end under the windscreen top lip. If it was successful, the top was very good and tight. It got so far that I dreaded to have to put on the top (when it got raining while underway) and waited to take it off again.
Then took the trouble of fitting a TR4a top and frame. So, so much easier now. Recommended for anyone who prefers usability over originality. 

20210417_171115.jpg

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Hi mates 

 Thanks for all the tips ,,The press studs at the front/top are ok, so, it was four thing's that I didn't have right,,  two short "lift the dot" pins  instead of two long, never folded the the webbing over, didn't use the clasp to strengthen the hole, and webbing was too loose , apart from them everthing was ok ,,will give update later in the week--Barry

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On 4/17/2021 at 4:13 PM, badhuis said:

I was always struggling with the top front end under the windscreen top lip. If it was successful, the top was very good and tight. It got so far that I dreaded to have to put on the top (when it got raining while underway) and waited to take it off again.
Then took the trouble of fitting a TR4a top and frame. So, so much easier now. Recommended for anyone who prefers usability over originality. 

20210417_171115.jpg

My only issue of the 4A attachment was way back in the 70's.

 I was down in Cornwall will a chum of mine. He was in the passenger and never wore the seat belt (far too sissy like)

Drove back from the beach to the pub fr lunchtime session. Screamed into the car park and slammed the brakes on (some things you have to do)

My friend Dave, at an unknown number og G's, left the seat and head butted the top the windscreen frame, just where the roof buckle is.

For a number of days afterwards head had a shield shaped impression in his forehead - much like Rimmer's 'H'

What jolly fun we had

Roger

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