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PI Double choke cable refurb


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Evening all

Couldn't bring myself to pay over a £100 for a new repro cable which might turn out not to last so I'm in the process of repairing and refurbishing an old one. So far I've managed to sort the cables/sleeves but its missing the chrome bezel (part 146987) and lock nut (part 515789). Don't suppose anyone has them stashed away in a tin and willing to part with them?

Failing that anyone know the tread TPI and nut I'd need.

Thanks

Andy

 

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Hi Andy,

Sorry, I can't help, but I'm curious what's involved if I start with tatty one (the cable ends are shot)? How do you replace the cables? In fairness, I haven't tried, but thought I'd tap into your recent experience.

Thanks,
John

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Hi John

Give it a go nothing to loose.

Remove the C clip from the outer threaded body. Pull the cables out. The outer sleeves will remain in crimped in the end of the body, cut flush and drill the remains out open out the crimping with a suitable punch/drift to receive the new outer. The cables will be crimped into the end of the knob section. You will see two small holes us a 1.5mm drill and drill into the shaft, be careful not to drill all the way through. Clamp the cables in a vice and pull one of mine came out fully the other snapped inside the shaft so I used a sharp 2mm drill to remove the remains. Just be careful the drill doesn't snag and break inside or I suspect it would be game over. I used lots of drilling/tap oil and a low speed on the pillar drill and removed the swarf on a regular basis.

Heated the shaft end to displace/vaporise the oil cleaned with brake cleaner. Twisted the two new cables together and Inserted them into the shaft and just nipped the very end or the shaft. I then soldered them in running it into the two drill holes, filled off the debris.

Used solid 1.6mm control cables/outers sourced from Car Builders Solutions 3m for £18. Can't see why it shouldn't work and a lot cheaper!.

Andy

 

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hi Andy,

I'm just refurbing one myself and have been looking for suitable replacement cables.

what made you choose solid inner cable rather than stranded as per the original?

Thanks

Bob

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Hi Bob

The solid I felt would give a more direct feel with less slop so more precise control that's the theory anyway! The heater cables are also solid and bonnet release IIRC.

Still struggling to find a suitable locking nut don't suppose you know the size and thread? Anyone?

Cheers

Andy

 

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Can't criticise solid.   Having experienced wide open throttle sticking twice it might even have helped!     But brake cable, as sold cheaply by the metre at bicycle shops is usually more than adequate, and they can sell all the fittings too.

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Is this what you mean:

Dash CHOKE CABLE BEZEL for a TRIUMPH TR6 1968-76 advertised on ebay item number 391928835888

Also listed on Moss site but different part number 618946 £4.20

Chris

 

 

Edited by TRsixchris
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32 minutes ago, TRsixchris said:

Is this what you mean:

Dash CHOKE CABLE BEZEL for a TRIUMPH TR6 1968-76 advertised on ebay item number 391928835888

Also listed on Moss site but different part number 618946 £4.20

Chris

 

 

Direct link Bezel

Stuart.

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Hi both

Thanks for the pointers. The bezel I’ve now got it’s the lock nut I’m struggling to source everyone’s either out of stock or no longer available. 
 

Found some switch lock nuts on e bay but I need the size/tread size.

Andy

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