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Now my TR4 is Licensed and on the road ,Let talk about security, ie, locking it up


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Hi Mates 

How do you "lock" your TR ? it's a simple ignition lock and what the point of locking the doors on a soft-top?, What I do is put a h/duty bicycle lock around the "H " frame support ( on the tr4)  left there when not in use and around the steering wheel when locking the car , I  leave the boot and doors unlocked w/ no valuables in car and tools under the boot floor , any better ideas? -Barry

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IMO there is no point in locking a convertible but most insurers require it. 

Steering locks can be broken easily enough so I use a steering wheel lock as a visual deterrent and leave nothing of value in the car (unless locked in the boot). 

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Put the handbrake on. They'll never figure out how to release it. :) And the old trick of taking out the rotor arm is old-school but pretty foolproof.

But overall vehicle-related thefts (both of vehicles and from them) has fallen by about 80% in the past 25 years. As with all security questions you need to look at the specific threat. Casual thefts of the less exotic classic cars are I think fairly unusual, a large proportion of vehicle theft is about stealing to order of high value moderns, often to be exported to eastern Europe or stripped for high value parts. And no-one is going to break into your old motor to nick the stereo now although they certainly may do to nick anything else sellable, to fund a drugs habit, and if so the biggest cost/hassle to you will probable be a broken side window.

I just use common sense, ie ensure the car is kept securely garaged whenever possible, avoid leaving it in high risk places as far as possible, and never leave anything of even the slightest value on display in the car (including ANY kind of bag) which is just asking for trouble, but other than that I don't worry too much.

Nigel

[EDIT] Sorry Barry, just seen you are in Oz not UK. But the above probably applies similarly for the most part, I'm guessing.

Edited by Bleednipple
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I have an old Watchdog device which hooks round the brake pedal and clamps round the rim of the steering wheel - because it clamps round the wheel's rim, I consider it superior to the Krooklok.  Of course, a serious thief would cut the wheel and remove it.

However, looking on Google, I cannot see any similar device available now - most seem to lie across the steering wheel or lock onto the gear lever.

Nigel has given sensible advice.  Unfortunately, if a thief really really wants the car, he'll bring a trailer.

Ian Cornish

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There's opportunist theft of anything that's quick to nick, and then there's vehicle theft. 

In addition to 1. value and 2. its ease of selling, the success of theft often boils down to.. 3. time, 4. commotion, 5. mobility.  So a camera left in the glove box is easy all the way... it has good value, is easily sold, quick and silent to nick, and small and inconspicuous to walk away with. 

Content and vehicle-security aims to conflict with those five criteria, and when considered individually - the latter three at least are very much more easily addressed. Most obvious comes to locking your valuables away.  Out of sight of course the first line of defence.  And aside from inside the boot, there's nothing to say that a safe-box shouldn't be fitted behind the seats for things like a camera, a wallet and a bag. 

The equivalent of a tonneau cover across the luggage space is commonplace in any estate car or MPV.  Similar could easily be used across behind the seats of a sports car, even when it has its hood up / hardtop in place.

Btw., slitting a soft-top roof open to reach for something inside is pretty conspicuous - so it would be a deterrent when parked in a public place.  And parking in a very public place, perhaps overlooked by a coffee shop or office, is itself a deterrent. Vehicle immobility might be addressed with a secret ignition &/or fuel immobiliser, to deter or otherwise slow down any opportunist joy-rider. 

Thereafter, anything that is time consuming or very obvious & also noisy to get through will help as a deterrent to whole vehicle theft.  So a steering lock and motion detector alarm are the usual.  When using a steering lock - do turn the steering onto full lock ..so the car doesn't go straight up onto a trailer.  An alarm in your garage would not go amiss either. 

Here in the UK., there used to be Autolocs to fit over & lock the vehicle's handbrake and gear lever, whereby the car was not easily rolled onto a trailer. Similar are still sold.  Being bright yellow they were a clear visual deterrent, as indeed are wheel clamps ..even if they are only ever used at home in your garage - where a lot of car theft occur.

Ease of selling, and therefore value, used to be addressed by spot identity and window etching.  I was watching an episode of The Sweeny  the other day and, somewhat ironically - the villain's car had his side windows security etched with the vehicle's registration number !

Nowadays there's also electronic tracking devices which, via an app on your phone, will alert you if the vehicle is moved.  And if it has been stolen - it gives you / the police a much better chance of tracking and recovery. The Jaguar Enthusiast Club  introduced a scheme some years ago which sold these tracking devices to club members at a very sensible price.       

Most of the propriety deterrents could of course be made at home, but many insurance companies like them. 

Pete.

p.s. oh also consider the security of your garage and where your spare vehicle keys are kept.!

Edited by Bfg
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4 hours ago, ianc said:

I have an old Watchdog device which hooks round the brake pedal and clamps round the rim of the steering wheel - because it clamps round the wheel's rim, I consider it superior to the Krooklok.  Of course, a serious thief would cut the wheel and remove it.

However, looking on Google, I cannot see any similar device available now - most seem to lie across the steering wheel or lock onto the gear lever.

Nigel has given sensible advice.  Unfortunately, if a thief really really wants the car, he'll bring a trailer.

Ian Cornish

This style iain ?

https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/product/2602992673178984791?q=krooklok&client=safari&hl=en-gb&biw=320&bih=445&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&prmd=sinv&prds=epd:3980961771434994928,cdl:1,prmr:1,cs:1

 

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No, Hamish - that is on the lines of the Krooklok, which only hooks round the steering wheel rather than clamping to the rim of the wheel.  With the Krooklok shape, one could bend the rim of the wheel towards the bulkhead in order to release the device.

I might take a photo of my Watchdog if I can get at it.

Ian Cornish

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You need a true deterrent, fit a Disklok.

Disklok.webp

The steel cover stops access to the complete steering wheel rim whilst not allowing anybody to grip to turn it, if it is combined with a steering lock after the wheels are turned obliquely it won't allow any turning of it ...at all. If you loose you keys you can attack the cover and locking pin with angle grinders and cutting discs and you may get it off when combined with a 3 foot wrecking bar wielded by a gorilla and a side portion of ..."come off you b*****d ". They've won awards for about the last 12 years, it gets quite boring reading them 2009/20010 et al etc etc and I suppose achieving the Thatcham Catergory 3 (UK security rating) awards just confirms that badlife folks go and find something else to steal.

 

Mick Richards

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Food for thought here;-

 

Classic Car Security                                                      

This information was originally published as an article in TRaction the club magazine of the Triumph TR Register  and although biassed towards the sidescreen Triumph TR's hopefully it will be  useful to owners of other marques. 

This information has been gathered from personal experience and is believed to be accurate but there is no guarantee that this is the case. Anyone using this  information does so on the understanding that its use is completely at  their own risk and that no legal liability of any kind will be accepted  by the author for errors or ommisions or consequential damage to persons or  possessions. Prospective users should make their own considered judgement or  seek specialist advice as to the accuracy or otherwise of any statements made  before using this information in any way. The procedures detailed below include  modifications to both  the fuel supply and the cars  electrical system if you are not competent in either of these areas you  are  advised to seek expert help.

 The recent increase in Classic car  thefts prompted me to look at ways to protect my car from the villains. Modern cars are now without exception factory  fitted with comprehensive security. Many of  these use immobilisers that are embedded in the ECU (Electronic Control Unit or computer) that controls the engine  etc. so are extremely difficult to bypass.  This is probably one reason why Classics are now a target for criminals  and as values  increase there is a ready  market for spares that are easily disposed of. Classic cars including side screen TR’s are basically very  simple in construction both  mechanically and electrically with most parts being very accessible, a modern stand-alone electronic immobiliser is thus  not appropriate as its presence and function can easily be spotted  and bypassed. So what are  the options?

      1. A mechanical device can be used  to clamp a wheel, lock the steering, gearstick, handbrake or foot pedals

      2. The steering wheel may be removed

      3. The electrics can be disabled  in some way

      4. The fuel supply can be cut  off

      5. A paging device can be  fitted

      6. A tracking device can be fitted 

If your car is targeted by a criminal  it may be a random opportunist theft or could be stolen to order. If the latter they are likely to have done their  homework and will have a much greater chance  of success. All methods of prevention are really playing for time so the longer  the methods take to overcome the best chance  you have of maintaining ownership. A determined thief may actually be prepared to winch the car into a van or on to a  trailer so unless they are caught in the act  many of the above deterrents will prove useless.

Mechanical devices such as steering  wheel locks take seconds for a criminal to overcome so offer little protection. Devices that lock the pedals to  the floor are much better but are not widely advertised. Wheel clamps do seem fairly effective  but are generally far too bulky to be carried  in a TR. Removing the steering wheel is a good deterrent as even seasoned thieves are unlikely  to carry appropriate replacements. 

A battery cut off switch is very  useful  for isolating the supply but a thief intent on action will no doubt carry the plastic keys and can in any case easily short  out the switch with a simple cable. Likewise a simple hidden switch in the ignition circuit is  easily bypassed by wiring the ignition circuit  direct to the battery.

Removing the rotor arm when leaving the  vehicle will deter many opportunist thieves but a professional stealing a popular classic such as a Triumph TR or MG to order will no doubt carry a spare. 

Cutting the fuel supply by solenoid  valve and a hidden switch would not prevent the car being started so would not arise suspicion but would soon cause the engine to stall,  a car stopping  unexpectedly would no doubt unnerve most  thieves into abandoning the car.

A paging device would seem to offer the  big advantage that as soon as the vehicle is being interfered with the owner is warned by a bleeper.
Provided the owner is  within about a half a mile of the car this  should be successful. For cars stolen at car rallies etc. this seems a good solution. The inexpensive trackers mentioned above can also fulfil this function by warning the owner if the car is moved and also enable its position to be tracked. These devices do of course require to be in the service area of the relevant mobile network.

A tracking device is claimed to be the  most effective solution in that the stolen vehicle can be tracked continually, I am not convinced that a tracker 
would still function if the car was winched  into a steel bodied van. Trackers used to be very costly both to buy and for the subscription to the  tracking service but over the past few years some inexpensive units have come to the market that may be linked to a normal mobile phone thus avoiding expensive subscriptions.


 After considering the above I decided  to adopt the following measures:

      A) Install a battery   isolation switch
      B) Install a fuel cut off  valve
      C) Install a  pager



Battery Isolation   Switch
 More for peace of mind rather  than a deterrent. Being able to fully  isolate all electrics is a bonus to prevent potential electrical faults while  parked. The nearside
blanking plate was a very  convenient position for the switch and avoided hacking holes in the shiny bulkhead. It is close to the battery and  the key is conveniently positioned under  the glove box for isolation.

Fuel Shut Off Solenoid Valve
The fuel line from the tank to the carbure.ttors runs through the nearside  chassis rails. The shut off valve can be partially hidden by mounting within the U-section and making a simple cover.  Unless the car is placed on an inspection ramp it is unlikely to be noticed, even by looking under the  vehicle. The solenoid valve is normally closed  and requires 12 volts to open the valve and allow fuel to flow. This can be achieved by a small hidden switch fed  from the ignition supply. The particular valve chosen has a manual bypass lever, so if for some reason the switch or the  supply fails then the fuel supply may be  manually turned on. As the lever is well hidden within the chassis rail, unless you are aware it would never be noticed  and would require the car to be jacked up to reach the lever. During tests the car started normally but cuts out approximately after about 1minutes 
running.  When the valve is activated again the car starts almost immediately. I believe the closed valve causes a partial  vacuum to prevent the petrol pump working as the fuel bowl is still full of petrol when the engine stops. 
An important point, do not  use  ordinary jubilee clips to secure fuel pipe, the special fuel  pipe clips provide a much more  efficient  and safer clamp.

 

 

 

                   Fuel Cut Off Switch                                   Cut off Switch Mounted on the Chassis                 A Fuel clip shown below a jubilee clip

A basic aluminium cover was fabricated from thin gauge material to cover the fuel cut off switch and secured to the underside of the chassis with two  self  tappers. If the solenoid valve failed it would be a simple matter to bend the cover and operate the manual  tap.  A sub-miniature toggle switch was fitted  in a hidden but convenient place, but to ensure it was not inadvertently switched off I made up a simple metal  guard.

 






Miniature Toggle Switch with Simple Metal   Guard  

 
 
 

A Suppliers list can be found  at the end of this article

Paging Systems
 One economically priced alarm/immobiliser security system the Sniper X2 includes a pager as standard. The system comprises: A main control unit, shock sensor, siren, flashing Light Emitting diode (LED) and paging antenna all for  around £65. The Sniper X2 is a comprehensive security system but only the  pager and shock sensor were of interest for this application so most of the connections were not used, the redundant cables  being trimmed for neatness.  The Sniper X2 is  designed for –ve (negative) earth systems but is easily adapted to the TR’s +ve (positive) earth. I decided to use  two trigger sources for the pager:

  1.The supplied shock sensor 
     
  2. Ignition

If a potential thief opens a door or sits on a seat the vibration is enough to cause the shock sensor to trigger the alarm on  the pager. The sensitivity may be adjusted  to avoid false triggering. Also if  the ignition is  switched on, the alarm is again triggered. The kit also includes a switch for boot  or bonnet should this be thought necessary. A flashing LED is supplied to indicate alarm status. I mounted all the items using Velcro, the control box and  shock sensor under the occasional rear seat  and the antenna unit on the back rail under the tonneau cover.

 

 

   The Sniper-2 Antenna Unit Mounted on the Tonneau rail                                        The Sniper-X2 Shock Sensor

The Sniper-X2 system is designed for negative earth  vehicles where the permanent and ignition  supplies would be positive. As the TR3A is positive earth, the Snipers earth  lead (black) is connected to the TR’s  permanent live feed and the main positive supply lead (red) is connected
to the TR’s chassis earth. The unit requires a  positive ignition feed to trigger the alarm so  a relay is used to provide this from the TR’s negative
ignition feed.  This  Simple Circuit using a 12 Volt Relay Provides a Positive Ignition Trigger from a Positive Earth System:

 

                   A Simple Circuit using a 12 Volt Relay Provides a Positive Ignition Trigger from a Positive Earth System 
 
The pager is claimed to have a  range up  to ½ mile in open ground, but through buildings or difficult terrain this range would be reduced. During tests it certainly  functioned well over 1/4 mile on open ground.

Inexpensive Trackers
Several inexpensive trackers are now available that communicate with a normal mobile phone through text messages (GSM). They use the global Positioning Satellites system (GBS) to send the cars position to the owners mobile. The owner uses their mobile to set up the device. It is quite incredible that these devices are now being sold for £30-40. So do they work?
 

One type of tracker is illustrated here "The GPS Tracker" with a 50 pence coin to show  its compact dimensions.
Two antennae one for GBS the other for GSM connect to the gold plated sockets on the side.
This device integrates into the vehicles wiring system and the package includes all that is necessary for installation.

To enable communication the unit requires a 2G Sim card, identical to the Sim Card in a mobile phone, which plugs into the side.  If a "Pay as you Go" (PAYG) SIM Card is bought  the running costs are very low as text messages only are being transmitted. Check with the Sim Card supplier that it is suitable for use in a tracker as some apparently are not. Since testing this unit unlimited PAYG Sim cards seem to be a thing of the past and are only now available on monthly terms i.e. you have to top up each month with currently at least £5. One company "3" does still offer unlimited SIMs but not a 2G version and although it is said to be backward compatible with the 2G network that may not apply to its use in a tracker only a mobile phone designed to operate with the higher version SIM.

The Sim Card must be enabled with the relevant Network provider otherwise it will not function. As the tracker has no dialling facilities the network provider will do this on request if you explain that the Sim is for a tracker.  The phone number on the Sim card is now dedicated to the tracker. Alternatively you could use a 2G Sim from a working phone.

Full operating instructions are provided in a compact booklet but suffer from being in poorly translated Chinese so do take a bit of effort to understand.

Operation
With the tracker wired up, aerials plugged in and power connected the side mounted LED initially lights up Red. After a few minutes provided that  GSM signals are being picked up the LED flashes Red at one second intervals, This alternates with Green when GPS signals are also received.

The tracker is shown here with its two aerials. The vehicle interface wiring has not   been shown as it is just a bunch of wires with fuses.

  To initiate communication A simple text message begin123456 is sent,from your  mobile phone, 123456 being the default password, this password may be changed.

The tracker then replies by text message begin OK to confirm conmmunication.

If you then simply phone the tracker (not text) it will reply with a text message giving the Longitude and Latitude of its current position. In addition it also gives the LAC code of its position that allows a smart phone to show its position on Google maps.
That is basically how it operates, but there are numerous refinements depending on how you wish to set it up.


Some of its functions:

1. It will give Periodic texts of its position on request, e.g. every 30 seconds, i.e. real time tracking

2. You can set up a Geo Fence, i.e. a rectangle of Longitude and Latitude so that if the tracker moves outside the defined area it will alert the owner by text.

3. It will contact the owner if the Ignition is switched on

4. An SOS (panic) button is included that when pressed for 3 seconds will text "Help Me" to a designated mobile phone

5. The vehicles engine may be Immobilised by sending the appropriate text

And many more functions not  perhaps all useful.

Summary
The tracker appears to be well made and is compact, It was straightforward to set up and operate (once the Chinglese) had been deciphered.
It is a very cost effective way of tracking a vehicle, a Pay as you go 2G Sim card and top ups are the only real expense.
The aerials would need to be concealed in some way, under the rear of the tonneau cover in a TR perhaps to avoid detection.
The current drain on the vehicles battery was measured at 120 milliamps quiescent rising to 180 milliamps during a call. So maybe not a long term answer if the car is laid up. But certainly OK for parking for a few hours while at  a car show etc. where many cars seem to be stolen.
To acheive this level of technology for £30-40 I think is quite amazing.


A Compact Self Contained Tracker

 

 

 

The TK 102 Nano is a self contained very compact unit marketed by Rewire Security that appears to have a similar chip set as the GPS Tracker tested above but with a few significant differences.  There are no external aerials and the unit is much smaller. It is not designed to interface into a vehicle but rather act as a standalone unit. An inbuilt shock sensor will detect movement and text a registered mobile phone. It is supplied with two batteries, a mains charging lead and a magnetic back to enable easy installation. An external 12 volt vehicle power lead is available as an extra.  Note: There are many similar looking devices for sale on Ebay and Amazon but judging from buyers feedback not all perform to the same standard or specification as the TK102 Nano.

Operation
By simply calling its phone number it will return a text indicating:

 Its current Latitude and Longitude

Its position on a mobile phone running Google Maps

The charge remaining in the internal battery.

An SOS button if pressed will send texts:  “ Help Me” and its position and call a designated phone.
In “shock mode” if moved it will alert a designated phone with the text:  “Sensor shock” and its position.
A geo fence can be set up so that if the tracker moves outside a defined geographical zone it will again text your phone. 
Real time tracking is another useful option using Rewire Security's GPS Live software
The unit due to its compact dimensions would appear to have numerous applications not least as a vehicle tracker.
Most Trackers operate over the 2G network phone network and so a suitable SIM card needs to be purchased and configured to work in a tracker. As usage is fairly minor mostly involving texts a “Pay as You Go (PAYG) SIM” would seem to be the least expensive option. Currently PAYG SIMs with unlimited top up times appear to be unobtainable unless you already have one working in a mobile phone, monthly top up is now the norm. One company Lycamobile does offer PAYG 2G SIMS with 90 days top up which is the best deal I could find. So with the minimum £5 top up every 90 days the running cost dependent on usage could be as low as £20 /year.
There are numerous features that can be set up on the tracker not all seemingly that useful and extreme care needs to be taken when sending set up commands paying particular attention being paid to the syntax. For example when registering your mobile to the tracker it must be registered as an international number of the form: +447714388765, sending 07714388765 will not work. Where “spaces” are detailed these must be included in your text.

Sleep mode Several battery saving modes can be selected but in the basic tracking mode i.e. calling to establish its position it reverts to Sleep mode after 5 minutes of inactivity shutting down the GPS but maintaining phone contact. It can be awaken by calling its number. The tracker wakes up, re-establishes GPS and responds by sending texts detailing its position before it entered sleep mode and its current position. In this mode the battery appeared to last for up to 4 days but any prolonged movement would reduce this. As the battery gets low on charge the unit sends warning texts to the registered phone at 10%, 5% and battery exhausted.

Deep sleep mode can be set up so that only movement will awaken the device, three levels of movement sensitivity can be programmed. In this mode both GPS and phone contact are shut down. Only movement will reawaken the device. It then sends a text to the designated phone. Battery life is maximised in this mode and is reputed to  last up to to  15 days. In my tests I awoke the tracker once every 24 hours and a fully charged battery lasted for 8.5 days.
This mode promises to be the most useful for protecting such as a car trailer that may be left unattended for extended periods.
A word of warning, if the device is left in shock mode, every time a movement occurs sufficient to trigger the Nano 102 it will send a text to your phone so  if moving the trailer or vehicle switch off the shock function otherwise you will have a string of "shock activated" texts on your phone and will soon exhaust your SIM card credit.

When the battery is running low the TK102 will send 3 text messages: at 10% , 5% capacity and just before it is completely flat.This is the default setting and must be turned off to stop these messages.

Other Potential Uses
Due to their relatively minor purchase and running costs many other uses are possible.
The first Tracker (GPS Tracker) only needs an external contact to close for it to send a text to the designated phone. An example could be remote monitoring of the temperature in a holiday home. By arranging for the external contact to be a room thermostat set say to 10 degrees C, if  the  boiler fails then the room temperature would drop below 10 degrees causing a text to be sent. In this case a separate 12 volt power supply would also be needed. No doubt readers can think of numerous other potential applications.

Many companies sell these devices but a word of warning, not all have technical expertise should something go wrong. I dealt with  ***Rewire Security and found them most helpful. SIM cards ordered from Lycamobile never appeared  but rewire security sell them for a couple of £s already configured and were sent by return post.  There are several trackers that look identical to the TK 102 but reading reviews not all work as described, Rewire Security can also supply a 12 volt lead to power the device externally. They do charge a little more for their version but include an operation manual written in normal English this alone is worth the extra money as the basic unit has a “Chinglish” manual that is anything but easy to follow.
*** No connection with Rewire Security just a satisfied customer
 
Conclusion
Mechanical deterrents are unlikely to be successful unless the thief is an unprepared opportunist.  A wheel clamp could be successful but these are too bulky for most sports cars.
Removing the rotor arm and or the steering wheel could deter theft but a determined professional villain may have a trailer or van to winch your car into.
Parking in such a way as to prevent easily loading onto a trailer is a good method e.g. parking close to other vehicles or a wall etc.
Cutting the fuel supply could unnerve the thief  as the car would start normally but stop suddenly.
A pager would alert the owner if the car was started or moved but has a limited range of around half a mile. Pagers will operate in areas where mobile phone signals are poor or absent.
A tracker would seem to be ideal but would need to be in a mobile phone service area to operate and once in a steel bodied van would not operate.
Tracker jamming devices are available as is GPS detection equipment although the latter are expensive. So whatever method you chose the villains usually have a way around it. Most devices should deter an opportunist thief but a determined professional stealing to order is a different proposition so the more difficult you can make it for them the more chance you have of them looking elsewhere.



Suppliers:
Battery isolator: Polevolt,  www.polevolt.co.uk
Fuel hose and clips: Halfords, www.halfords.com
Fuel Cut Off Valve: Tinley Tech  Limited, www.tinleytech.co.uk
Pager unit: In Car Stuff, www.in-car-stuff.com, Amazon and several other Ebay suppliers
Sub-miniature toggle switch,  Maplin Electronics, www.maplin.co.uk
GPS/SMS/GPRS Tracker,  Rewire security



















 

 

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Attached are a couple of photos of my old Watchdog device.  The top end clamps round the steering wheel's rim, the bottom end hooks onto the brake pedal (as does a Krooklok).

It would not deter a really serious thief, but might make a chancer try another vehicle.

When, for the International Weekend, I park at a B&B, I choose a place which is pretty secluded and sometimes the proprietor is able to offer a barn or garage.

Ian Cornish

IMG_6546 cropped-1280.jpg

IMG_6547 cropped rotated-1280.jpg

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Hi Mates

Thanks for the tips , I will consider them all, my brother years ago on his TR's used to use the old crook-lock, that hook around the steering wheel, ok for a bit of visual security, but not much good in reality--all the Best--Barry

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10 hours ago, barrytr4 said:

Hi Mates

Thanks for the tips , I will consider them all, my brother years ago on his TR's used to use the old crook-lock, that hook around the steering wheel, ok for a bit of visual security, but not much good in reality--all the Best--Barry

Krooklock is effective if you put the steering wheel end on the spokes instead of the rim.

Stuart.

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Krooklock is effective if you put the steering wheel end on the spokes instead of the rim.

I used to know a habitual car thief who reckoned he could remove a Krooklock in 30 seconds. I bet a bolt cutter would get through the spokes of an original wheel quicker than that.

(I don't spend a lot of time hobnobbing with criminals, but his fiancee worked with my fiancee at a local hospice.)

My brother had an MGA which he part-exed for a Herald estate in the 1960s. We'd fitted a hidden switch in the ignition circuit, and the garage that sold the Herald tried for two hours to get the MG started before they phoned him!

Pete

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1 hour ago, stillp said:

I used to know a habitual car thief who reckoned he could remove a Krooklock in 30 seconds. I bet a bolt cutter would get through the spokes of an original wheel quicker than that.

(I don't spend a lot of time hobnobbing with criminals, but his fiancee worked with my fiancee at a local hospice.)

My brother had an MGA which he part-exed for a Herald estate in the 1960s. We'd fitted a hidden switch in the ignition circuit, and the garage that sold the Herald tried for two hours to get the MG started before they phoned him!

Pete

But the point is it would slow them down which can mean they`ll get noticed, most go for an easier option.

Stuart.

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