stillp Posted January 14, 2021 Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 36 minutes ago, RogerH said: Another useful knack is to hacksaw in a straight line. Not that easy to start with. Make sure the blade is very tight in the frame. The most important thing when trying to cut a straight line (or filing) is not to rush, just go at it steadily. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 14, 2021 Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 (edited) A thing I found when hack sawing was the type of hacksaw. Most people like the pistol grip style because it looks modern. I like the type with the file handle. Why I hear you cry - well, when you cut through and forget to stop you hit all four knuckles on the rough bit sticking out of the vice. With the file type handle you tend to only hit the fore finger knuckle if at all. Roger Edited January 15, 2021 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted January 14, 2021 Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 Very true Roger! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 14, 2021 Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 You need to clean a file occasionally anyway when doing fine work Rich, because the filings get caught in the teeth and can mark the surface preventing you from getting a good finish. File-card is used to clean them https://www.proopsbrothers.com/wire-brush-file-card-cleaner-ideal-for--jewellery-modelling-engineering-and-woodworking-m0617-1646-p.asp but a wire brush will work - used across the file along the grooves of the teeth. If you are doing fine small work like clock parts you will probably need a set of needle-files like this: https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/10PC-NEEDLE-FILE-SET-160MM-LONG-VARIOUS-TYPES-SECOND-CUT-FINE-WORK--104772.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 14, 2021 Report Share Posted January 14, 2021 Chalk rubbed onto the file helps prevent pick up when filing soft materials. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 Hi Richard If you can get hold of some good locksmiths warding files 4” & 6” which used to be got in various cuts ( bastard, second cut and smooth etc.) you’ll find you will be able to remove very small amounts quite accurately. My choice of brand was Nicholson files but I think they are hard to get or not made anymore. I always ground one edge off as a safety edge so to get a nice square edge and this was always useful to polish off the top radius of the key for a nice smooth edge, especially on safe keys. I do find file these days files are not so precisely made and the edges for wards are not very square. Unfortunately not many old school locksmiths about these days that can cut keys to locks by hand as most locks are pin tumbler. I think I may of gone off reminiscing here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 (edited) The first thing you were taught as a GPO apprentice was how to make a pot of tea. This was perfected over the next three years. (The correct way to blow down the spout to unclog the tea leaves was one of the most difficult tasks to achieve.) Charlie. Edited January 15, 2021 by Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 21 minutes ago, Kevo_6 said: Hi Richard If you can get hold of some good locksmiths warding files 4” & 6” which used to be got in various cuts ( bastard, second cut and smooth etc.) you’ll find you will be able to remove very small amounts quite accurately. My choice of brand was Nicholson files but I think they are hard to get or not made anymore. I always ground one edge off as a safety edge so to get a nice square edge and this was always useful to polish off the top radius of the key for a nice smooth edge, especially on safe keys. I do find file these days files are not so precisely made and the edges for wards are not very square. Unfortunately not many old school locksmiths about these days that can cut keys to locks by hand as most locks are pin tumbler. I think I may of gone off reminiscing here. Here is a good selection https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop?query=engineers metal files Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted January 15, 2021 Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 44 minutes ago, RogerH said: Here is a good selection https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop?query=engineers metal files Roger Quite so Roger, there are quite a few selling them but I generally would go through a locksmiths supplies company but even their quality of files are a lot poorer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VLCcollector Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/14/2021 at 9:07 PM, RogerH said: Hi Mick, I think we used chalk on the blade to reduce the cutting action. Roger Yes french chalk does that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VLCcollector Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/15/2021 at 11:06 AM, Kevo_6 said: Quite so Roger, there are quite a few selling them but I generally would go through a locksmiths supplies company but even their quality of files are a lot poorer. Not much of any use comes out of cromwell, its cheaper than chips but only good as a drawer filler. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VLCcollector Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 A file must never be dragged backwards, no matter how you are using it either conventionally or for draw filing never ever drag it backwards. unless you want to break off the teeth tips and thus damage the file. Most files are far too soft now, so certainly buying old files will give you longevity of file life. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VLCcollector Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/11/2021 at 9:25 PM, Richmac said: Thanks Rob Would an engineer do such a thing by eye? To suggest 0.8 mm leads me to feel 0.9mm would be a fail? Maybe, depending on the tolerances stated on the drawing, however in reality no most certainly wouldn't, how would I do it ? simple right a quick CNC file, upload it and fit the part in the vice of choice and then cut the taper... or put it on my cylindrical grinder and rotate the head to suit, take a cut then measure with a taper gauge and calculate the amount to finish etc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VLCcollector Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 On 1/14/2021 at 9:27 PM, RogerH said: A thing I found when hack sawing was the type of hacksaw. Most people like the pistol grip style because it looks modern. I like the type with the file handle. Why I hear you cry - well, when you cut through and forget to stop you hit all four knuckles on the rough bit sticking out of the vice. With the file type handle you tend to only hit the fore finger knuckle if at all. Roger Seriously ? just tape a big flag on the saw bow that says "idiot at work, stop before pain occurs" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 37 minutes ago, VLCcollector said: Seriously ? just tape a big flag on the saw bow that says "idiot at work, stop before pain occurs" You'r quite a bright spark. I'm sure you have never lost concentration and done the odd mistake. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VLCcollector Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 9 hours ago, RogerH said: You'r quite a bright spark. I'm sure you have never lost concentration and done the odd mistake. Roger It was meant as a joke, don't take it to heart no offence was meant Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Many thanks, Joke understood. As a BEA apprentice we had a very good new tool box when we arrived first day at the workshop. Inside was a very swish pistol grip hacksaw. Needless to say we did a lot of hacksawing. The pistol grip allowed a lot of pressure/force to be put into the cutting. And at the final cut you had to try and stop the whole thing taking your knuckles off. I later found that the file grip handle difn't allow all this extra force and so more control was found. I think a big flag would have been handy then. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 ...or you could do it the Japanese way and put the blade in backwards so that you cut with all the energy on the reverse stroke? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VLCcollector Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 I've not used a hacksaw for years now, although rare I have an apprentice for that and for all other sawing a use a cnc bandsaw .... unless you have changed a bandsaw blade you may be mistaken for thinking I am lucky there is a video on you tube on "how to fold a bandsaw blade safely" they really do attack if this is attempted without the knowledge to do so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 Bandsaw blade breakage: occasionally during my apprenticeship I had to use the bandsaw in the main machine shop. All too often, the blade would break and we had to repair it. What a game that was! So long ago that I can't remember how we did it (I think there were always two of us) - some things are best forgotten. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 1 hour ago, VLCcollector said: there is a video on you tube on "how to fold a bandsaw blade safely" they really do attack if this is attempted without the knowledge to do so. Yes, I've watched a number of those videos, but I still can't fold my bandsaw blades! They must have watched a different video. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VLCcollector Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 3 hours ago, stillp said: Yes, I've watched a number of those videos, but I still can't fold my bandsaw blades! They must have watched a different video. Pete I have to watch it every time a band saw blade lasts me about 1 month or 5 minutes if I am cutting inconel what I have found is its important to get the blade the correct way around, start with the teeth away from you, also I can stand on mine, not sure how to do it to a smaller blade, or for that matter a bigger blade, mine I think is more manageable at just over 4m in length, it lends itself nicely to the task, I was looking at a 3m Kasto, it cuts 3m in diameter its massive, I wouldn't want to have to "fold" that blade. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.