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Cleaning Major Parts


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Hi

 

Whist I am rebuilding, I would like to really clean up some parts.  One is my inlet manifold, which I started on with petrol and a toothbrush but its slow going.  Has anyone any suggestions?  I was consider a bath with citric acid - or even the dishwasher!

Richard

 

Edited by AarhusTr6
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A mildish acid will clean it up.  I use phosphoric, which a little stronger than citric.  My tank isnt big enough to do the entire manifold at once.

Ed

SDC10848a.JPG

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Ultrasonic bath is the way to go Richard! The only problem being what size to go for as you find more and more uses for it. I initially bought a German supermarket one big enough to do CDs for £20 or so but soon outgrew it so went for the biggest Chinese copy one from eBay, 30 litres around £180 from memory. Dearest part is going for the special fluid you add to about 5%, ideally distilled water, which varies from de-rusting to cleaning to degreasing of various materials. I bought 25 litres of the all singing and dancing type from UK supplier and whilst expensive initial outlay, should see me out! You can use washing up liquid but I found the good stuff well worth buying, even if only 5 litres to start.

Used it on spare set of heavily oiled inlet manifolds and first dip got most of it off bar some heavy deposits in recesses that were not smooth from casting so I used toothbrush to free up and put in for another half hour and very good with just a few bits to go at, not the cleaner's shortcoming, but casting rough recesses again.

I can't recommended it enough and you can also clean up jewellery to justify it if need be, but not certain stones. Perfect on watch straps.

I recall a major TR supplier/servicing company offering this service but looked like a small chest freezer size.

Regards

Bill 

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Had my exhaust manifold grit blasted then I sprayed it with uht exhaust paint. The blasting was cheap as the manifold was amongst a few other parts which were powder coated. Photo is finished manifold- it's silver but looks more like grey but far better than it looked originally.

IMG_20201103_103701244~2.jpg

Edited by michaeldavis39
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As said Phosphoric Acid its cheap and very effective just need to find a tank big enough for what you want and keep it out doors and away from inquisitive children. Next up would be to have it blasted. Of the two I like the acid treatment and have then DIY zinc plated a lot of bits and been very happy with the results.

Andy 

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17 hours ago, michaeldavis39 said:

Had my exhaust manifold grit blasted then I sprayed it with uht exhaust paint. The blasting was cheap as the manifold was amongst a few other parts which were powder coated. Photo is finished manifold- it's silver but looks more like grey but far better than it looked originally.

IMG_20201103_103701244~2.jpg

I too use this method on Heavy Metal Parts, 

But Richard actually started the the Thread asking about the Inlet Manifold  !

Same method could also be used.

Have fun, 

Conrad,

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Hi

Actually I did mention my inlet manifold as thats next on my list but also generically as I find part cleaning quite interesting (now that maybe made me sound weird...)!!!

Richard

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I'm sorry, Richard, I read mistakenly "exhaust manifold" in your original post.  The acid treatment i mentioned is primarily to remove rust from steel or cast iron parts. It won't be as effective on aluminum.

Alkaline cleaners are typically better on aluminum, but I find that mechanical cleaning usually works best-that's abrasives or blasting.

Ed

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I'm interested in the ultrasonic bath method - anyone else used it?

I've used both the acid & media blasting methods with varying degrees of success. However both are potentially dangerous & messy. In particular I find the prior degreasing time consuming & a right pain. Sounds like this could do both with minimal mess & safety issues. Cant find a 30l for anywhere near £180 mind, nearer £300. 

Alan

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Hi Michael , i was agreeing with you on the Exhaust Manifold  , didn't you see that ?

And was just saying that the original post was asking about the Inlet Manifold! 

If I have that wrong , then I apologise,  

Conrad

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Alloy parts clean up very well with vapour blasting.

The previous owner of my recently acquired Triumph Trident bike had the cylinder block and head vapour blasted last year. They are quite complex castings (with deep cooling fins) and still look like new.

Nigel

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Cant find a 30l for anywhere near £180 mind, nearer £300. 

You're right Alan! Most seem to be identically priced at £325 but I did see the below at £275. I hadn't realised how much they've gone up in last year. 

Durham is a bit far for you to travel to Hereford to try mine out! 

Regards

Bill 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-6-10-15-30L-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Ultra-Sonic-Bath-Cleaning-Timer-Heater/154099928295?hash=item23e1124ce7:g:2iUAAOSwA89eFv2j

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13 minutes ago, Bill944T said:

Cant find a 30l for anywhere near £180 mind, nearer £300. 

You're right Alan! Most seem to be identically priced at £325 but I did see the below at £275. I hadn't realised how much they've gone up in last year. 

Durham is a bit far for you to travel to Hereford to try mine out! 

Regards

Bill 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-6-10-15-30L-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Ultra-Sonic-Bath-Cleaning-Timer-Heater/154099928295?hash=item23e1124ce7:g:2iUAAOSwA89eFv2j

Thanks for the offer though Bill ! - Have you tried any de rusting with it yet?

Nigel - I looked at some Mini gearbox parts online & Vapour blasting finish does looks superb but I would prefer something DIY. 

Richard - don't think the oil slick in the tea pot would go down too well with my wife :huh:

Alan

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I've found the dishwasher pretty good, although it's important to have the oven pre-heated to make sure any mild steel parts are really well dried, otherwise they start to rust immediately.

John

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Thanks for the offer though Bill ! - Have you tried any de rusting with it yet?

I've bought the special fluid for de-rusting Alan and as my tank was still full of degreaser fluid, gave 5 litres to a friend who has a 3 litre tank for him to try out with a rusty spanner of mine and it does clean off the rust, helped with a wire brush before session two. It certainly gets down to the bottom of the rust pits and leaves it with what looks like a black oxide finish. It loses out to sandblasting as that process removes rust and some of the surrounding metal so leaves a smoother finish. But, on thin metal, sand blasting too aggressive and can distort.  I tried it with parts too small for sandblasting (bolts, small brackets etc) and it is worthwhile doing.

Ask and see if any member has got one near you to try out if you can!

Regards

Bill 

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I've found the dishwasher pretty good, although it's important to have the oven pre-heated to make sure any mild steel parts are really well dried, otherwise they start to rust immediately

It might also be important to make sure wifey doesn't catch you using it!

Regards

Bill 

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Hello All.  

Be careful what type of metal you use Phosphoric acid on, it eats carbon for breakfast and will make this like springs brittle.

Molasses watered down will eat rust  and turns the metal black but takes weeks, I leave bits in it for about 6 weeks moving them every week or so. Paint them quickly after removing them from the liquid and washing of the residue. Horses like Molasses in some of their food so it is sold in gallon tubs.

mike p

 

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5 hours ago, mike797 said:

Hello All.  

Be careful what type of metal you use Phosphoric acid on, it eats carbon for breakfast and will make this like springs brittle.

Molasses watered down will eat rust  and turns the metal black but takes weeks, I leave bits in it for about 6 weeks moving them every week or so. Paint them quickly after removing them from the liquid and washing of the residue. Horses like Molasses in some of their food so it is sold in gallon tubs.

mike p

 

Mike, I think you are talking about hydrogen embrittlement. Acids can do this to some hardened steels, including some spring steels.  Molasses works by a different process called chelation, but like you say, its very slow. There are faster chelate products, like Evaporust. Acids and chelates are primarily for ferrous metals (iron and steel).

Not sure what you meant by the carbon remark. Acids dont attack elemental carbon.

Ed

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