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Hi all ,

having stripped front hubs  of old bearings a while back went to fit new and realised I’d deleleted reference photos by mistake.

can anyone provide correct fitting photos as manual is pretty vague as to what way tapered rollers face etc. 
cheers Rob 

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Impossible to it wrong really.

Fit the outer races to the hub, wide opening facing out.

Pack the rollers with plenty of grease

Fit large bearing into hub

Fit grease seal with felt outermost to hub

Fit hub to stub axle, fit small race into hub, followed by antirotation washer, then castillated nut.

Adjust to give a tiny amount of play, insert split pin.

Done

Bob

Edited by Lebro
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Hi Rob,

As per what Bob states -

when you put it all together you will find that the felt packer on the inner grease/dirt seal is way to thick.

With a very very sharp blade cut the felt back so that it is just above the metal cup. 

 

Roger

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When I did my wheel bearings I tried trimming a felt seal down with a razor blade but botched the job pretty badly. When I was done, the width was all over the place. So the next thing I tried was to first soak one in oil first, then compressed it under a block of wood for awhile. It took a few tries but resulted in a thinner profile that fit very well.

Jim

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2 hours ago, Tr4aJim said:

When I did my wheel bearings I tried trimming a felt seal down with a razor blade but botched the job pretty badly. When I was done, the width was all over the place. So the next thing I tried was to first soak one in oil first, then compressed it under a block of wood for awhile. It took a few tries but resulted in a thinner profile that fit very well.

Jim

Or soak it then fit it and wind it up tight and leave for 24 hrs and the reset to give correct free play.

Stuart.

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Have any of you tried the spacer/ distance collar that has been made to fit between the bearing races?

I have a couple to fit, but haven't tried them yet.

Adey

PS: As Stuart said, fit the soaked-felt and then re-adjust a day or two later.

Cheers - Happy New Year btw (looking forward to the International this year already!)

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45 minutes ago, Ade-TR4 said:

Have any of you tried the spacer/ distance collar that has been made to fit between the bearing races?

I have a couple to fit, but haven't tried them yet.

Adey

PS: As Stuart said, fit the soaked-felt and then re-adjust a day or two later.

Cheers - Happy New Year btw (looking forward to the International this year already!)

Hello Adey

                  I fitted them  to our Spitfire 3 years ago to stop brake pad knock back(which it has done)

I removed about 0.002" from one after about 5000 to 6000 miles and last check they were still ok

Roger

ps I have made a set and fitted them to our Vitesse(but not run yet)

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3 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello Adey

                  I fitted them  to our Spitfire 3 years ago to stop brake pad knock back(which it has done)

I removed about 0.002" from one after about 5000 to 6000 miles and last check they were still ok

Roger

ps I have made a set and fitted them to our Vitesse(but not run yet)

Did you do a drawing of the spacer with length diam reqd etc.  If so can you share it?

Peter W

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Hello All

             The Vitesse is still on the lift with front wheels off I do not think I made a drawing. (old school of measure and make!) and because I was making them I just kept taking a few Thou off until I got the fit I wanted so no shims!

If not I will undo one and measure it in the next few days

But may be a different size for TR's ?

Roger

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2 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello All

             The Vitesse is still on the lift with front wheels off I do not think I made a drawing. (old school of measure and make!) and because I was making them I just kept taking a few Thou off until I got the fit I wanted so no shims!

If not I will undo one and measure it in the next few days

But may be a different size for TR's ?

Roger

Thank you Roger.  Yes you may be right about the Spitfire to TR length being different.

I currently have a TR stub axle and vertical post plus TR 2 hub and bearings on the bench, so am not too far from a similar approach to you.

Cheers

Peter W

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11 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Thank you Roger.  Yes you may be right about the Spitfire to TR length being different.

I currently have a TR stub axle and vertical post plus TR 2 hub and bearings on the bench, so am not too far from a similar approach to you.

Cheers

Peter W

FWIW big Healeys had those spacer tubes and shims fitted, a real pain to get adjusted as they had the all in one wire wheel hub like TR2 type.

Stuart.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

Done a TinkerCad mock-up of the spacer. STL file in case you want to print a physical copy.

I don't have a mic, so measurements with vernier calipers only.

Note that kit comes with several shims of 3, 5 and 10 thou.

Dodgy sketch included :/

Hope it's of use!

 

Adey

IMG_2397.JPG

Stunning Gogo.stl

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Noted, thanks. which end do the shims go ?  I presume the reduced diameter at the outer end is to avoid the spacer touching the rollers or outer race of the bearing.

Bob.

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32 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Noted, thanks. which end do the shims go ?  I presume the reduced diameter at the outer end is to avoid the spacer touching the rollers or outer race of the bearing.

Bob.

I know the shims on the Healey ones go on the outer end presumably this would be the same as it would make adjustment easier.

Stuart.

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Hi All,

The spacers are simple to fit - using a DTI:

Start by leaving out the felt bit on the inside, then fit the inner bearings  next add about 4x 10 thou shims then the spacer then the outer bearings and the D washer then the castlated nut and tight up to say 20 ft lbs

Then using your dial gauge indicator attached to the disc and the other end on the nut, you measure the end float of the hub (which will be positive because you have deliberately put too many shims in)

with this end float you will know how many shims to take out to end up with the end float you want say 2-3thou on a road car (I set mine to 0 end float)

This means that you effectively have a solid tube from the inner part of the inner bearing -shim - spacer- inner part of the outer bearing and the wheel runs on the bearings  knowing that it is not too tight or too loose.

Once you know what shims to put in you put back the felt oil seal and put your correct shims and spacer and bearings  do up the outer nut and stick a split pin through

the wheel has no wobble and the brakes don't "knock off"

every so often you can check by jacking up the wheel and feeling for top to bottom movement.

One last thing while you are changing shims it is worth finding an old pair of tweezers to pick up the shims as they stick together on the wheel grease

and a micrometer is helpful when you drop the shims as 3thou, 5thou and 10 thou shims all look very much the same

Good luck - hope this helps and not too much

MichaelH

 

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