JohnC Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) I bought a brass plug from my local hydraulics supplier to screw into the union on the end of the fuel hose Edited January 16, 2021 by JohnC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Schnippel Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 (edited) Hi there, There are adjusting screws to make the machine run leaner. On the picture the number 1/2. Left around leaner. Right around richer. This allows you to set up the machine individually with the Co Tester Very easily. Ralf Ralf Edited January 16, 2021 by Schnippel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 6 hours ago, Schnippel said: Hi there, There are adjusting screws to make the machine run leaner. On the picture the number 1/2. Left around leaner. Right around richer. This allows you to set up the machine individually with the Co Tester Very easily. Ralf Ralf Hi Ralf, That's true, but a pretty big over-simplification! 2 and 3 (and the one you haven't labeled) are simply locking rings. 5 adjusts the minimum fuel stop. 4 adjusts how far the mixture leans out for cruise, and affects the min fuel stop. 1 affects at what vacuum the mixture starts to lean out going from WOT to cruise, and affects how far the mixture leans out for cruise, and affects the min fuel stop. Not shown is the max fuel stop, or the datum track which affects how much the mixture changes with vacuum. If you don't have the appropriate calibration rig, or a wide-band AFR sensor and a lot of patience, don't kid yourself you can tweak the PI system! Just send it to a professional. And no, I'm not one. But I do have a calibration rig and an AFR sensor, but not enough patience... John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
c.hydes Posted January 16, 2021 Report Share Posted January 16, 2021 29 minutes ago, JohnC said: Hi Ralf, That's true, but a pretty big over-simplification! 2 and 3 (and the one you haven't labeled) are simply locking rings. 5 adjusts the minimum fuel stop. 4 adjusts how far the mixture leans out for cruise, and affects the min fuel stop. 1 affects at what vacuum the mixture starts to lean out going from WOT to cruise, and affects how far the mixture leans out for cruise, and affects the min fuel stop. Not shown is the max fuel stop, or the datum track which affects how much the mixture changes with vacuum. If you don't have the appropriate calibration rig, or a wide-band AFR sensor and a lot of patience, don't kid yourself you can tweak the PI system! Just send it to a professional. And no, I'm not one. But I do have a calibration rig and an AFR sensor, but not enough patience... John Hi John, a PI MU expert (can`t remember who), once told me which screw to adjust, to stop backfiring on the "overrun" ie from a WOT to idle and indeed which way ie C/W or AC/W to reduce it? Can you enlighten me again please? Colin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted January 17, 2021 Report Share Posted January 17, 2021 21 hours ago, c.hydes said: Hi John, a PI MU expert (can`t remember who), once told me which screw to adjust, to stop backfiring on the "overrun" ie from a WOT to idle and indeed which way ie C/W or AC/W to reduce it? Can you enlighten me again please? Colin. Kind of. If there's one screw then it's A3 - the smallest one. Clockwise to richen the mixture; a turn is quite significant. I'd start with half a turn and see how you go. Try to minimise the final adjustment as much as you can. Too much and you'll affect idle. Much too much and you'll mess up cruise as well. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
c.hydes Posted January 17, 2021 Report Share Posted January 17, 2021 2 hours ago, JohnC said: Kind of. If there's one screw then it's A3 - the smallest one. Clockwise to richen the mixture; a turn is quite significant. I'd start with half a turn and see how you go. Try to minimise the final adjustment as much as you can. Too much and you'll affect idle. Much too much and you'll mess up cruise as well. John Cheers John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DenisMc Posted January 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 (edited) Hi Guys, An update. I removed the MU, injectors and hoses and sent them to Prestige Injection to be checked. I was going to send them to Neil Ferguson, but Carl Fitchett of Prestige had been very helpful in advising and guiding me through the diagnostic checks I mentioned at the start of this thread so decided I owed him the business. I shall have no hesitation in using Neil the next time. Prestige found that the MU control link that carries the rollers was worn so it was replaced. They then calibrated the MU to the Lucas specification, cleaned and tested the injectors and assembled the MU, injectors and hoses together for final testing. Yesterday, after a bit of a fight with that bottom MU screw and the routing of the braided hoses, I got it all fitted back on the car. After a bit of cranking it fired and once warmed up seemed to be running much better than before. It is too wet and salty here in Wales to take it for a spin but on the next dry day I shall. After a good run out, I shall ask the village garage to check the CO again. I received a prompt and professional service from Prestige, who kept me informed of progress. From posting to receiving the parts back took just 5 days. To shut off the fuel I jacked up the front lefthand side of the car to reduce the "head" of petrol in the tank, clamped the pipe from the Bosch fuel pump with a plastic pipe clamp then to stop odd dribbles discovered that a spare TR5 sump plug I had (3/8" BSP thread I think) fitted the fuel supply pipe nut, so no petrol was lost. Many thanks for your very useful suggestions and guidance. My knowledge of things TR5 continues to grow! Regards, Denis Edited January 24, 2021 by DenisMc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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