TR4 Solid Axle Refresh

[RMP NC]

I am now getting to doing what I need for the rear end, late build TR4. 

There are no obvious issues with the rear end although I've never ran the car.  Visual inspection of gears and general bench test (I mean looking for slack or metal in case) does not show problems.  I want to do the things that I can do without getting too deep and avoid a full rebuild.  If after I get the car going the rear end has issues and has to be pulled for a rebuild then I will address it but wanted to give this a go by just addressing obvious wear items. 

I do want to address oil seals and the axle bearings and the pinion oil seal.  The axle tube and hub oil seals and the axle bearing is sold as a kit by several vendors so seems to be a common item to address.    

I have not had one of these apart before so before I break something or spend hours on something easily solved I am asking for your lessons learned please.

How difficult is it to do these few items?  The TR manual seems to say you basically remove the hub assembly and the axle bearing comes out with the axle, then you pull off the bearing, and replace and assemble in reverse.  I read that correctly?  Anything I need to care for in that process that can bite you?  The axles just slide out, no clips inside like on some cars?  The one seal is in the axle housing and the other in the hub?

Any issue with the pinion oil seal replacement?

Thanks for any lessons learned you can share.

Edited January 4, 2021 by RMP NC
typo

[Andy303]

RMP:

The TR rear axle is a bit different than those found on the cars listed in your signature.  As you noted, the manual says to remove the axle and hub assembly together. easy to do,  The real bugger is separating the hub from the axle shaft in order to get to the bearings and the inner seal. The axle shaft is pressed into the hub and has a very shallow taper that seems to make removal a real chore. The factory had a special tool for this but there are ways to make your own that will work just as well. Some are discussed here: 

Here is another discussion from the Triumph Experience forum: https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/diagnosis-rear-axle-movement-question.1694317/

Once the hub is off you will have to remove the inner bearing from the shaft and knock the outer race from inside the hub. There is an inner hub seal and another in the axle tube. A critical operation here is to check the end float as described in the manual and adjust it with the shims.

These topics come around pretty often so I would search both here and the other forum under headings such as "rear axle bearing" and Pinion seal" and "rear axle end float".

Andy

 

Edited January 5, 2021 by Andy303

[valvebounce]

I would highly recommend these seals, I've been through several pairs of the modern replacements and they have all failed in a year or two and the oil makes a real mess of your brakes.

These ones are still going strong... A bit more expensive but easy to fit with their metal casing and they work.

http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=164

Edited January 5, 2021 by valvebounce

[RMP NC]

Had later found the post about axle float in the TR Experience site and read it with interest.  I am just trying to avoid another lesson learned event where I break something needlessly or spend hours trying to do something the hard way only to later find the trick to doing it easily. 

Seems I have a spent a lifetime learning to things which I only do once or twice and never get to reap the rewards of doing them efficiently.  Said differently, I can tell you how NOT to do a lot of things.

thank you gents.

[Andy303]

Well, here is another one for you to consider:  https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?107877-A-simple-solution-for-separating-axle-and-hub

I ordered the bits exactly as described and had the local welding shop do the honors. The hub came apart "relatively" easily (i.e. no heat used) with the assembly held in a stout vice and the use of a big breaker bar with a pipe extension and some well directed hammer blows on the head of the forcing screw. The  large, course threads (8 tpi) on the end of the hub have to be in good condition.

 

Edited January 6, 2021 by Andy303

[Andy303]

6 hours ago, valvebounce said:

I would highly recommend these seals, I've been through several pairs of the modern replacements and they have all failed in a year or two and the oil makes a real mess of your brakes.

These ones are still going strong... A bit more expensive but easy to fit with their metal casing and they work.

http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=164

VB:

Drat, I had just ordered the usual, cheaper ones from Moss. I had looked at Revington and other sites for something uprated but they all seemed the same. The TR Enterprises versions look the originals that I removed, which I think used leather sealing surfaces. I am still working on rebuilding the entire axle so its not too late. Probably cost me $50 a piece by the time I get them over here....