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3A Vent Flap Mechanism.


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Hi all,

continuing my lockdown time filling with my very, very long term 3A project.

I'm looking at the vent flap mechanism, and I'm flumexed,  I think I have everything, but cannot see how it goes on the car, to work.

Illustrations from Moss bok haven't helped, anyone got a photo, or indeed a description?

Cheers,

John.

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  • John Morrison changed the title to 3A Vent Flap Mechanism.

John

Don't know what task you are involved with but modern rubbers for the vent flap are often too deep, causing the closed vent flap to sit proud of the scuttle and be scraped when the bonnet is raised. Some fiddly slicing and sanding of the rubber may be called for. As me how I know...!

Miles

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16 hours ago, Fireman049 said:

Miles is absolutely right regarding the rubber seal. Mine is exactly like that. Why can't they produce proper replacement parts?

I bet our American members get proper fitting parts. 

Tom/

I think you`ll find theres the same complaint over there about this seal Tom.

Stuart.

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It wasn`t the height that was the problem for me, it seemed to be smaller than the opening and had to be stretched on, and kept popping off at the opposite end. Finished up using contact adhesive to hold it in place..

Ralph

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1 hour ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

It wasn`t the height that was the problem for me, it seemed to be smaller than the opening and had to be stretched on, and kept popping off at the opposite end. Finished up using contact adhesive to hold it in place..

Ralph

yes very frustrating

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2 hours ago, R.M. said:

...interestingly enough frost do a rubber part moulding kit...

I don’t know about the Frost product, but back in the 1970’s there was a company that produced a 2 part kit to cast rubber.

In the adverts they said that once the tins were opened they had to be used all in one go, they would not keep long if exposed to air.
I phoned the company to find out if there was any way around this, as I wanted to make a run of small moldings over a period of time.

“No problem.” Came the answer.
“All you need to do is flow some liquid Nitrogen into the tins before you put the lids back on.”

Ah...Of course…Never thought of that…

Needless to say I never did buy the product.

Charlie

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made a mould out of Perspex once "great for moulds as almost nothing sticks to it" and used a flexible exterior builders silicone to make  "O" rings for a submersible they worked very well and actually did keep the water out, also quite cheap for a tube so if it goes hard you can just chuck it, just a thought.

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1 hour ago, David Owen said:

Question:  Is the set screw for the vent rod a standard size?  If so what is that size?

Hi David,

do you mean the screw shown above in that wonderful cad drawing, going into the blue part, if so that is a trunnion assembly, part no 24G1482K in the Moss book. They do the screw seperately but I have no idea what the thread is, but the trunnion is a fairly standard thing, similar to choke cable ends, motorcycle cable ends etc. as it could have been replaced at some time in the past might be better to buy the complete thing, only £1.60p on this side of the pond. My new one came with a hexagon head which makes fitting easier as it is a bit cramped to get in there with a screwdriver.

Ralph,

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2 hours ago, David Owen said:

Question:  Is the set screw for the vent rod a standard size?  If so what is that size?

Yes probably No10-32 or more likely No 8-32  unified thread. This depends on the thread in the trunion part it screws into.

Mickey Moss sell it  https://mossmotors.com/cable-stop-cable-to-block  473-070 is their pt no.  Oddly, even though I put it in their European catalogue, the US market clearly does not have them fitted to their models and thus it is not listed on their Triumph TR2-3 catalogue - or am I being cynical.  TRF ignore it too.  Thankfully I know MGA used the same item on the heater cables. 

 

Top Tip here for you in the USA - If you have the Moss UK Europe part number or even the original factory part number, type that into the Moss Motors USA catalogue search & you may well get their USA selling part number.  Try it.  Type 24G1482K into the Moss Motors (USA) search box and it links you to 473-070.  Sadly this does not work the other way round, ie type the Moss USA no in the Moss Europe search does not find the Moss Europe selling item.

Cheers


Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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40 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yes probably No10-32 or more likely No 8-32  unified thread. This depends on the thread in the trunion part it screws into.

Mickey Moss sell it  https://mossmotors.com/cable-stop-cable-to-block  473-070 is their pt no.  Oddly, even though I put it in their European catalogue, the US market clearly does not have them fitted to their models and thus it is not listed on their Triumph TR2-3 catalogue - or am I being cynical.  TRF ignore it too.  Thankfully I know MGA used the same item on the heater cables. 

 

To tip here for you in the USA - If you have the Moss UK Europe part number or even the original factory part number, type that into the Moss Motors USA catalogue search & you get their USA selling part number.  Try it.  Type 24G1482K into the Moss Motors search box and it links you to 473-070.  Sadly this does not work the other way round, ie type the Moss USA no in the Moss Europe search does not find the Moss Europe selling item.

Cheers


Peter W

 

 

Thank you Peter that is extremely helpful.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Hi David,

do you mean the screw shown above in that wonderful cad drawing, going into the blue part, if so that is a trunnion assembly, part no 24G1482K in the Moss book. They do the screw seperately but I have no idea what the thread is, but the trunnion is a fairly standard thing, similar to choke cable ends, motorcycle cable ends etc. as it could have been replaced at some time in the past might be better to buy the complete thing, only £1.60p on this side of the pond. My new one came with a hexagon head which makes fitting easier as it is a bit cramped to get in there with a screwdriver.

Ralph,

 

 

Thanks Ralph.

Edited by David Owen
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