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Stainless Steel front wing flitch plates


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Hi all

anyone got any comments on the stainless offerings that fit inside the wing to complete the ‘box’ rather than the mild steel ? Apart from the obvious corrosion benefit.
 

I have a pair and I’m finding the profile About 1/4 inch too fat, making the front wing sit higher than I like at the back. They also look a little long, so touch the top of the sill at the forward edge. With the seal in p,ace the effect is obviously more pronounced. I have an OE steel pair and they measure a touch smaller all round.

regards

Tony 

 

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12 hours ago, TR4Tony VC said:

Hi all

anyone got any comments on the stainless offerings that fit inside the wing to complete the ‘box’ rather than the mild steel ? Apart from the obvious corrosion benefit.
 

I have a pair and I’m finding the profile About 1/4 inch too fat, making the front wing sit higher than I like at the back. They also look a little long, so touch the top of the sill at the forward edge. With the seal in p,ace the effect is obviously more pronounced. I have an OE steel pair and they measure a touch smaller all round.

regards

Tony 

 

OE often need trimming to fit properly without pushing the wing out in the middle of the flat section when the rubber seal is fitted, I trim them to suit the car so I suspect you`ll have to do the same, dont forget for longevity of wings/sills to fit some drains out through as well, not only the plenum ones but also the one in the rear of the wing rain channel too.

Stuart.

 

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Thanks all

anyone actually tried alloy plates - would they not take a battering from stones coming off the wheels ?

regards

Tony 

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Tony has a good point - the way he uses his cars the plates would be subject to some really hard and persistent hammering!

He intends to use 5VC in rallies, perhaps not quite as rough as those in which Beastie has spent its life, but not just tootling about.

Ian Cornish

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Stainless steel in general likes to crack when hit hard or flexed too much. Pummeling by high speed stones could do it.

The right grade of Aluminium alloy would work well. Something like an aerospace grade 7075 T6 - hard as nails and tough, really tough. getting hold f it would be fun.

Titanium is the theoretical answer - light weight very very strong. It's only down side is cutting and machining  - a right devil.

For practical use the very best material is good ol' mild steel.  Certainly strong enough, lighter than SS, easily worked in a machine shop. Very forgiving to stone damage. And will last for yonks if protected as normal ( clean annually and coat with Dinitrol 3125 HS

 

Roger 

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A friend of mine, who is heavily into motorcycles, wanted some threads cut on a 5/16" bar of titanium, he tried using a die, but without much success.

I set my lathe with a tool steel thread cutting tool, & had a go, it cut beautifully !  Who knew.

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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3mm Ally with a good coat of stone chip would last the course I would say.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Thanks all - I think a Stuart has the answer again. Time for more blue paint.

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