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Electrically Operated Door Windows for TR4-6


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Doh Roger, I’ve completely missed all this until just chanced upon and skimmed it..... looks good but.......

 

Could have saved you all the hassle...... you need to upgrade to a side screen car, 2 or any 3! - Problem solved...

 

Go on, you know it makes sense?!

 

and a Happy New Year 

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From reading the various projects Roger has done I expect if he had a side screen TR he’d try to convert that to electric windows as well.

(Just turn the mechanism round 90 degrees.)

 

Waiting to see how he solves the problem of getting the wires from the door through the A post so it lasts more than a few openings before the wire breaks.

 

Charlie.

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Of course the next step should be central locking, followed by linking the two so the windows close automatically. (did this on my Rover SD1)

Bob

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...............central locking in an open sports car..................where you can lean over and operate the other door...........

 

On the Nissan 340Z the windows are a very close fit into the body work.  When you pull the door opening handle the windows immediately come down about 1/2" before the door opens.  That is quite easy to do bur !!!!

 

I do like the idea of inbuilt windows on a TR3 - there may be a way. !!!

 

Roger

 

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19 minutes ago, RogerH said:

 

I do like the idea of inbuilt windows on a TR3 - there may be a way. !!!

 

Roger

 

There is

Stuart.

 

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Posted (edited)

Hi Ian,

not wind up windows but plasma screens.  I was an ardent viewer of the early Star TRek prog's. They had plasma screens that you could turn on/off by a simple command to the ships computer.  Everything on ST has been coming TRue.

All we need to do is install a ships computer into the TR2/3/3A/3B - we shall call it 'Rusty' - in keeping with the cars spirit.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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The technology to darken windows through electrical means already exists, but making them dissolve and return at the flick of a switch, or a voice command, may take some additional thought. :D

TT

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On 1/1/2021 at 10:04 AM, Charlie D said:

From reading the various projects Roger has done I expect if he had a side screen TR he’d try to convert that to electric windows as well.

(Just turn the mechanism round 90 degrees.)

 

Waiting to see how he solves the problem of getting the wires from the door through the A post so it lasts more than a few openings before the wire breaks.

 

Charlie.

Hi Charlie,

the door to 'A' post wiring is easy. The spirap takes the load and keeps it in place. There is very little movement of the actual wires.

 

Roger

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Just to add another comment to an earlier posting, Racetorations did indeed fit electric window kits and i believe Moss also offered them.  I've been contemplating fitting them to my dove for as Roger says, its a bit of stretch to open the passengers window when you are belted in.  I'm told they use Golf units and there was a fair bit of bracketry used inside the door I saw being worked on.  I was about to buy one of the window kits Roger mentioned but having seen his comments I wont be going down that route.  Maybe motors and gubbins from a Stag is the way to go.  It keeps the conversion  'in house'  and I never had any problems with the lifts on my Stag. The window glass  on a Stag is probably just as heavy if not a bit more so. 

All Roger has to do now is to fit an electric quick clear windscreen.  They are brilliant at demisting the TR! 

hoges.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Folks,

I've just finished (nearly) the last piece of the leccy window jigsaw.

I needed somewhere to put the Up/Down switches. The obvious place to me was to make the dash support gear stick surround wider.  

I made a mockery  mock up of the gear stick surround to prove the idea and it worked.  I then made a 'finished' gear stick surround that looked (for me) good.

The next step was to re-cover the vertical section of the support.

Originally this is a vinyl hot formed cover over a foam base. The 1/4" thisck foam is there obviously for helping to absorb any crash impacts - dream on.

I tried to reproduce this foam by coating in 'builders' gap filler foam. The trial appeared to work but in practice it was was not good.

So clean it all off and start again. This time I glued wood to the outside of the legs and then TRimmed it back to give a nice curve similar to original.

This was then covered with 6mm medium density sponge. The leather was then stretched over this. It needs to be stretched so as to remove all the wrinkles caused but the various concave/convex bends in the legs.

The bottom area where it attaches to the floor I have left uncovered. It will not notice as the carpet will cover it. Also TRying to get the leather neatly over it was well out of my skill range.  I (have made some fancy Stainless Steel covers that fit over the leg base and carpet that look pretty swish.

From the pics you may be able to see the extra width of the gear stick surround. Originally the front of the surround would be about 3/4" narrower than the width of the legs.

The surround is now in line with the legs.

Another waste of time that I did was to reproduce the raised lip around the gear stick hole. The leather, over this, is sewn down onto the base (plywood). I then spun a bezel to go over this. Doh!!.  The bezel hides the lip and the sewing and holds the leather down as was the intention of the sewing.

The radio is courtesy of Stuart and looks very period.

Roger

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Edited by RogerH
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Looking good Roger, only proviso is you may find for taller people it may interfere more with left leg space.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

I have a felling that I will not be getting any taller.   I have got the original dash support so it is easily swapped back.

 

Hi Pete,

Not having any understanding of upholstery sewing I drilled holes in the ply chassis and passed the thread through it.

if I had thought about it much deeper then the sewing and the new lip would nt have been needed as the spun bezel takes care of that area.

 

And before it is pointed out the seat still lift up fully.

 

Roger

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Hi Roger,

I've just been catching up with this thread, amazing work! The centre console looks very smart indeed.

Just a thought on safety. Is there space inside the doors to fit side impact bars? Every car made in the last 20+ years has them, and retro fitting to TR4-6 may be possible??

Nigel

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9 minutes ago, Nigel Triumph said:

Hi Roger,

I've just been catching up with this thread, amazing work! The centre console looks very smart indeed.

Just a thought on safety. Is there space inside the doors to fit side impact bars? Every car made in the last 20+ years has them, and retro fitting to TR4-6 may be possible??

Nigel

Late US TR6 doors already have them.

Stuart

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