Tony_C Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 Doh Roger, I’ve completely missed all this until just chanced upon and skimmed it..... looks good but....... Could have saved you all the hassle...... you need to upgrade to a side screen car, 2 or any 3! - Problem solved... Go on, you know it makes sense?! and a Happy New Year Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 12 minutes ago, Tony_C said: you need to upgrade to a side screen car, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 Just what I was thinking too Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 Me too! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 From reading the various projects Roger has done I expect if he had a side screen TR he’d try to convert that to electric windows as well. (Just turn the mechanism round 90 degrees.) Waiting to see how he solves the problem of getting the wires from the door through the A post so it lasts more than a few openings before the wire breaks. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 Of course the next step should be central locking, followed by linking the two so the windows close automatically. (did this on my Rover SD1) Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 ...............central locking in an open sports car..................where you can lean over and operate the other door........... On the Nissan 340Z the windows are a very close fit into the body work. When you pull the door opening handle the windows immediately come down about 1/2" before the door opens. That is quite easy to do bur !!!! I do like the idea of inbuilt windows on a TR3 - there may be a way. !!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 There were two main reasons I bought my TR3a; it had a separate push button starter and it had side screens. Wind up windows on a sidescreen car?.... Never. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 19 minutes ago, RogerH said: I do like the idea of inbuilt windows on a TR3 - there may be a way. !!! Roger There is Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 (edited) Hi Ian, not wind up windows but plasma screens. I was an ardent viewer of the early Star TRek prog's. They had plasma screens that you could turn on/off by a simple command to the ships computer. Everything on ST has been coming TRue. All we need to do is install a ships computer into the TR2/3/3A/3B - we shall call it 'Rusty' - in keeping with the cars spirit. Roger Edited January 1, 2021 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 The technology to darken windows through electrical means already exists, but making them dissolve and return at the flick of a switch, or a voice command, may take some additional thought. TT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 I'm thinking !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 On 1/1/2021 at 10:04 AM, Charlie D said: From reading the various projects Roger has done I expect if he had a side screen TR he’d try to convert that to electric windows as well. (Just turn the mechanism round 90 degrees.) Waiting to see how he solves the problem of getting the wires from the door through the A post so it lasts more than a few openings before the wire breaks. Charlie. Hi Charlie, the door to 'A' post wiring is easy. The spirap takes the load and keeps it in place. There is very little movement of the actual wires. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Hogan Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 Just to add another comment to an earlier posting, Racetorations did indeed fit electric window kits and i believe Moss also offered them. I've been contemplating fitting them to my dove for as Roger says, its a bit of stretch to open the passengers window when you are belted in. I'm told they use Golf units and there was a fair bit of bracketry used inside the door I saw being worked on. I was about to buy one of the window kits Roger mentioned but having seen his comments I wont be going down that route. Maybe motors and gubbins from a Stag is the way to go. It keeps the conversion 'in house' and I never had any problems with the lifts on my Stag. The window glass on a Stag is probably just as heavy if not a bit more so. All Roger has to do now is to fit an electric quick clear windscreen. They are brilliant at demisting the TR! hoges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 Hi Paul, earlier in the first lock down I fitted a better fan to the heater unit. It clears the screen quite quickly. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 (edited) Hi Folks, I've just finished (nearly) the last piece of the leccy window jigsaw. I needed somewhere to put the Up/Down switches. The obvious place to me was to make the dash support gear stick surround wider. I made a mockery mock up of the gear stick surround to prove the idea and it worked. I then made a 'finished' gear stick surround that looked (for me) good. The next step was to re-cover the vertical section of the support. Originally this is a vinyl hot formed cover over a foam base. The 1/4" thisck foam is there obviously for helping to absorb any crash impacts - dream on. I tried to reproduce this foam by coating in 'builders' gap filler foam. The trial appeared to work but in practice it was was not good. So clean it all off and start again. This time I glued wood to the outside of the legs and then TRimmed it back to give a nice curve similar to original. This was then covered with 6mm medium density sponge. The leather was then stretched over this. It needs to be stretched so as to remove all the wrinkles caused but the various concave/convex bends in the legs. The bottom area where it attaches to the floor I have left uncovered. It will not notice as the carpet will cover it. Also TRying to get the leather neatly over it was well out of my skill range. I (have made some fancy Stainless Steel covers that fit over the leg base and carpet that look pretty swish. From the pics you may be able to see the extra width of the gear stick surround. Originally the front of the surround would be about 3/4" narrower than the width of the legs. The surround is now in line with the legs. Another waste of time that I did was to reproduce the raised lip around the gear stick hole. The leather, over this, is sewn down onto the base (plywood). I then spun a bezel to go over this. Doh!!. The bezel hides the lip and the sewing and holds the leather down as was the intention of the sewing. The radio is courtesy of Stuart and looks very period. Roger Edited January 19, 2021 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 Looking good Roger, only proviso is you may find for taller people it may interfere more with left leg space. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 That looks great Roger. How did you sew the leather to the plywood? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 Hi Stuart, I have a felling that I will not be getting any taller. I have got the original dash support so it is easily swapped back. Hi Pete, Not having any understanding of upholstery sewing I drilled holes in the ply chassis and passed the thread through it. if I had thought about it much deeper then the sewing and the new lip would nt have been needed as the spun bezel takes care of that area. And before it is pointed out the seat still lift up fully. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 Roger you have a PM (not related to this topic) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2021 Hi Bob, your unrelated mysterious PM has disappeared !!! Has not arrived. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 20, 2021 Report Share Posted January 20, 2021 Resent in reply to yours Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted January 20, 2021 Report Share Posted January 20, 2021 Hi Roger, I've just been catching up with this thread, amazing work! The centre console looks very smart indeed. Just a thought on safety. Is there space inside the doors to fit side impact bars? Every car made in the last 20+ years has them, and retro fitting to TR4-6 may be possible?? Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 20, 2021 Report Share Posted January 20, 2021 9 minutes ago, Nigel Triumph said: Hi Roger, I've just been catching up with this thread, amazing work! The centre console looks very smart indeed. Just a thought on safety. Is there space inside the doors to fit side impact bars? Every car made in the last 20+ years has them, and retro fitting to TR4-6 may be possible?? Nigel Late US TR6 doors already have them. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted January 20, 2021 Report Share Posted January 20, 2021 Door impact bars were discussed recently on this TR6 link Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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