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Rear brakes TR3


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I have my 1959 TR3 in shop. The hydraulic reservoir was leaking so I replaced and replacing brake fluid with new clean fluid.  In the process my rear wheels have become locked up. I’m pretty sure that it is not in gear.  ( I have it on stands with wheels off).  I have brake lines and clutch lines pretty well bled. Having problem bleeding rears but most of air is out. I am not concerned about bleeding, just need a helper for a few minutes. But am absolutely baffled about unlocking rear wheels. I’m a newbie mechanic and will appreciate any help.

 

mike

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Are the fronts locking too?

Do you have a restrictor in the line from the m/c? It will be mounted on the brass manifold bolted to the chassis leg in the front wheel well. 
It could be stuck and is best fixed by throwing the internals in the bin and doing without it. 

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If the front brakes also are jammed on, Andrew is likely to be correct in his diagnosis and the restrictor can be dismantled, its innards thrown away and the casing reinstated.

However, if rear brakes only are jammed, run each manual adjuster (on the backplate at 180 degrees to the brake cylinder) anti-clockwise and, with any luck, the wheels should rotate.  Such a condition could occur if the flexible hydraulic pipe to the rear axle has become blocked internally - if so, replace it with an armoured flexible.

Ian Cornish

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Hello Mike,

I had a problem with progressive locking of the brakes many years ago, after many attempts to resolve the situation I discovered that the problem was caused by the vent hole on the reservoir cap being blocked, creating a vacuum in the reservoir, thus causing the brakes not to release after each application until they finally locked solid.

It may be worth checking that the new reservoir cap has a vent.

Cheers,

Cliff

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Thank you for help. 
 

I took the guts out of the restrictor valve and didn’t help.  Rear only locked up.

 

the emergency brake is released. I disconnected the rear brake lines and still didn’t release.  I get free flow of fluid through all bleed points. Pretty much have air out.  I replaced the reservoir and cleaned everything as well as replaced all of the fluid.

 

I have car on jacks. Turned it over in neutral and wheels didn’t turn. Turned over in first gear and they turned.

 

I’ve bled the clutch line until no air bubbles at all.

 

really stumped.

 

I took screws out of one rear hub. It didn’t want to come off. Probably could pry off but am leery of that.

 

thanks

 

mike

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Mike - you haven't said that you have released the manual adjuster on the backplate of each rear brake (see my post above, repeated here).

Turn each manual adjuster (it's small and square, and located on the backplate at 180 degrees to the brake cylinder) anti-clockwise and, with any luck, the wheels should rotate.  In order not to damage the adjuster, use a spanner with the correct size of square hole - such spanners usually have 2 square holes, small at one end, larger the other.

As the adjuster is rotated it will get tighter, then easier to turn,  Stop at the point where it is loosest - this occurs every quarter of a turn. Keep rotating in quarter turns and the brake shoes will be released.  You should then be able to turn the road wheel or the brake drum by hand.

Ian Cornish

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Mike,

Looking at what you are saying, only the rears 'On'  you are looking for something common only to the rears.

If the restricter valve isn't restricting, then I would take a close look at the single flexible hose located

on the rear axle, it could well be acting as a one way valve due to internal breakdown.

It would let you bleed the brakes forever when the fluid is flowing rearwards

but keep everything klocked up, by preventing return.

John.

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Make sure master cylinder is fully topped up, Crack open both bleed nipples and leave them open, fluid should creep out, put pipes on them and let the fluid run into a jar, this should release any pressure in the system, whilst this is happening check the wheels to see if they turn, if they turn the problem is probably hydaulic , if still won't turn problem is probably inside drums, my money is on hydraulic, Cheers, Bill

Edited by billy l
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Thanks to all of you for help.

 

I had not followed directions from Mr. Cornish. When I released the adjusters properly, the wheels released and I was able to remove the drums.  One wheel cylinder leaking, all four pads in bad shape but no evident damage to drums. I guess a result of use and neglect.  New brakes, cylinders and components on order.

mike

 ps. Have a restored TR4 as well. Little too small for me. Anxious to get TR3 ready.

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