Battery terminals

[Ocheye]

I'm about to replace the battery on my TR4. The existing battery has the terminals/poles at the bulkhead side but most of the batteries with the +ve on the left (viewed from the front of the car) have the terminals at the front.

My cables will reach but I wonder which is correct. My car is -ve earth btw.

Andy

[RogerH]

Hi Andy,

having the poles at the back keep the sparks away from the battery strap,

However Mine are at the front so I have the SS battery strap covered with a deep 'U' shaped piece of rubber.  Mine is a Halfords HB072

Either is correct.

Roger

[keith1948]

Hi Andy

I think the beauty of a TR is that you can get the battery to fit with either terminals at front or rear and there is plenty of room to fit different sizes. Terminals on mine are at the front nearest engine. It is useful to have the battery label showing. In your case it looks like whoever fitted yours used one with the earth on the left as viewed from the label side. To get the terminals at the engine side you need one with the earth on the right as viewed from label side. Doesn't really matter though unless you are going for concourse. In the past I have used batteries with the lead straps showing on the top. These look 'period style' BUT beware if you should accidentally drop a spanner on one of those. Makes a good arc welder! I don't use that type any more. No need to ask why!

I would also recommend a battery tray to help protect the metal of the bulkhead.

Keith

[Ocheye]

5 minutes ago, keith1948 said:

Hi Andy

I think the beauty of a TR is that you can get the battery to fit with either terminals at front or rear and there is plenty of room to fit different sizes. Terminals on mine are at the front nearest engine. It is useful to have the battery label showing. In your case it looks like whoever fitted yours used one with the earth on the left as viewed from the label side. To get the terminals at the engine side you need one with the earth on the right as viewed from label side. Doesn't really matter though unless you are going for concourse. In the past I have used batteries with the lead straps showing on the top. These look 'period style' BUT beware if you should accidentally drop a spanner on one of those. Makes a good arc welder! I don't use that type any more. No need to ask why!

I would also recommend a battery tray to help protect the metal of the bulkhead.

Keith

Thanks Keith

I'm happy to use sealed style batteries as I have no interest in concours preferring to have a good daily driver 'warts and all'. I'd like a battery tray but am a bit dismayed by the prices

Andy

[Ocheye]

10 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Andy,

having the poles at the back keep the sparks away from the battery strap,

However Mine are at the front so I have the SS battery strap covered with a deep 'U' shaped piece of rubber.  Mine is a Halfords HB072

Either is correct.

Roger

Thanks Roger

I think I'll keep the terminals at the back even if the label faces the bulkhead. I think I'm going for Exide Excell 70ah with a CCA of 540A

Andy

[rvwp]

Hi Andy,

I've just fitted a new battery to my 4A. The terminals are at the back as your picture. This seems to be the safest option. My car is - earth also.

I bought my battery from 'Numberonebatteries' on E-bay, part number 196 100 12V 76AH. Cost £44.95, free postage, 4 year guarantee.

 I ordered on a Sunday and it was delivered on Tuesday by Parcel Force. Excellent service.

If you are considering a battery box which you should, I found the TR Shop one too deep and quite flimsy and was touching the heater pipe on the back of the engine. The Moss one on my TR6 (purchased 10 years ago) is a much better fit and quality. 

Rich

[Ocheye]

1 hour ago, rvwp said:

Hi Andy,

I've just fitted a new battery to my 4A. The terminals are at the back as your picture. This seems to be the safest option. My car is - earth also.

I bought my battery from 'Numberonebatteries' on E-bay, part number 196 100 12V 76AH. Cost £44.95, free postage, 4 year guarantee.

 I ordered on a Sunday and it was delivered on Tuesday by Parcel Force. Excellent service.

If you are considering a battery box which you should, I found the TR Shop one too deep and quite flimsy and was touching the heater pipe on the back of the engine. The Moss one on my TR6 (purchased 10 years ago) is a much better fit and quality. 

Rich

Thanks Rich

[rcreweread]

I have the battery terminals nearest the bulkhead on my TR4 because I was concerned how close the terminals were to the metal restraining clamp - however there is still a danger when it is fitted next to the bulkhead as it very easy to earth a spanner onto the adjacent brake and clutch pipoes when undoing the live clamp - don't ask me how I know .

My solution was to use some appropriate sized clear plastic which I slit down the back and slid over the pipies in the immediate vicinity - worked a treat and hardly noticeable at all

Cheers Rich

[ianc]

On my TR4, which is negative earth, I have the connectors next to the bulkhead with positive terminal nearest the starter motor (and master cylinders).

In 2015, I purchased from Halford's an HB096, rated 640CCA, 70Ah.

I have a geared starter motor, and this battery spins the (modified) engine pretty rapidly.

When the battery on my Citroen 2-litre diesel failed within the warranty period, Halford's tested it and then changed it without any quibble whatsoever.

The previous battery in the TR was from Quickfit in 2002 - 13 years' service I considered to be very good.

Ian Cornish

[RobH]

1 hour ago, rcreweread said:

however there is still a danger when it is fitted next to the bulkhead as it very easy to earth a spanner onto the adjacent brake and clutch pipes when undoing the live clamp

Which is why you should always remove the battery earth connection first, and replace it last.  

[TR4ffic]

38 minutes ago, RobH said:

Which is why you should always remove the battery earth connection first, and replace it last.  

+1 ...very wise ...very important

Despite this... Many years ago, having done some work on my 4a where I'd disconnected the battery (terminals to the front), I'd finished, connected the battery and I lent over to check I'd picked up all the tools/bits & bobs out of the engine bay and promptly shorted the +ve terminal to earth using the metal strap on my watch.!! Much sparking and a nasty burn.!!!

Lesson learnt... Onwards & upwards.!

I've also known of people using a socket and ratchet wrench to do up either battery terminal and fumbled the wrench - It drops across and shorts to the other terminal... Major calamity... Always use a short correctly sized spanner.

Nick

[Tr4aJim]

I fitted plastic terminal covers on the battery terminals. I also have a negative (earth) disconnect on the battery, that I’ve made of a habit of opening every time I park the car.

Jim

[ianc]

Always remove watch when working on car - not only might it cause a short circuit (as in Nick's case), but will get mucky.

Ian Cornish

[stuart]

11 minutes ago, ianc said:

Always remove watch when working on car - not only might it cause a short circuit (as in Nick's case), but will get mucky.

Ian Cornish

Same applies for rings, I got a very nasty burn from shorting one across the starter solenoid on a tractor 50 yrs ago and never worn any since!

Stuart.

[stillp]

56 minutes ago, ianc said:

Always remove watch when working on car - not only might it cause a short circuit (as in Nick's case), but will get mucky.

Ian Cornish

I knew someone who lost all the use of his hand after reaching between two 24V busbars for a dropped washer, while wearing a stainless steel watch band.

Pete

[trchris]

first thing you learn as an apprentice first lead to remove last to attach THE EARTH CABLE

Chris

[ianc]

A plastic battery surround (potty!) may reduce the risk of shorting terminal to bodywork.

Like Jim, my negative earth battery has an isolator in its negative lead - the switch is mounted on the dashboard and I use it every time I stop the engine.

Ian Cornish