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Fuel gauge/sender and How to Calibrate the Fuel Guage.


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Hi, 

I have got caught out with the fuel gauge a couple of times, 

When empty the gauge is showing 1/4 full,  when full it takes a long to time for the gauge to start falling,

The tank is empty, so I moved the float with a hook, this seems to  work OK, can you adjust the float in situ i belive the float needs to be pulled up slightly to allow the arm to fall down further 

Or does it need replacing , it isn't the voltage regulator as it has been replaced, 

Thank you , (stay save)  pink

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On the back of the gauge is two little adjusters, they may be hidden behind cork plugs.

  1. Pull the gauge out and reconnect it.
  2. Empty the fuel tank.
  3. Switch on the ignition
  4. Watch where the gauge settles to.
  5. Adjust the adjuster with a small electrical screwdriver until it reads Zero
  6. Use something like a length of metal coat hangar wire suitably bent lift the float up fully.
  7. Adjust the other adjuster until the tank reads full.
  8. Check the empty position again.
  9. Stick it all back together.... job done!
  10. As you look at the back of the gauge the low level adjuster will be the r/h one.
  11. Due to the hysteresis of the gauge and sender you may have to do it several times. I have mine adjusted  so there is still a gallon or so when the gauge reads empty.

         

 

 

 

Edited by DaveN
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  • John Morrison changed the title to Fuel gauge/sender and How to Calibrate the Fuel Guage.
  • John Morrison pinned this topic

Hi all,

have changed the title a tad, to flag the  the calibration info, and have 'Pinned' topic as requested for the future.

Can I ask, does this only apply to TR6 guages, as the info is, at the moment pinned in our TR6 section, or apply to

other TR Fuel Guages also, in which case it perhaps should be moved to general technical - only asking?

John.

 

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I have an old fuel gauge and been having a play with it, i  found the 2 holes in  in the back of the gauge, 

The slots are in the iner frame of the gauge,so as you twist the driver it moves the frame, it is very hit and miss 

Definitely want to put some lube in the hole, trying to get it between the plates, very small amount as it could mess up the inside 

Pink 

 

 

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Inspired by this thread, I've just had a look at my fuel gauge. With the ignition on but the engine not running it oscillates fairly quickly between over 3/4 full to just under 1/2. 

Would this be a voltage stabilizer problem ,or maybe , as I had the dash out last year- a loose connection somewhere?

Thanks for any advice.

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/19/2020 at 10:06 AM, Mike C said:

Inspired by this thread, I've just had a look at my fuel gauge. With the ignition on but the engine not running it oscillates fairly quickly between over 3/4 full to just under 1/2. 

Would this be a voltage stabilizer problem ,or maybe , as I had the dash out last year- a loose connection somewhere?

Thanks for any advice.

 

Yep, it was the voltage stabilizer. Now I can throw away the 1/2" dowel dip stick. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/20/2021 at 6:45 AM, Mike C said:

Yep, it was the voltage stabilizer. Now I can throw away the 1/2" dowel dip stick. 

Used same on aircraft for many years. Always more accurate than Cessna gauges. :P

For the 6, I just know that it underreads by 1/4. :D 

Edited by stallie
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John, I suggest you remove the mirror from the windscreen frame and refit it with a rubber gasket, I made one many moons ago from a piece of old inner tube and this completely solved the problem you describe, which similarly affected my mirror. Just a thin piece of compliant rubber is sufficient to isolate the mirror from body vibrations.

Tim

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