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Wire Wheel Painting


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Mine were rusty chrome wheels (very rusty) that I picked up for £60 for the set. After checking for true and broken spokes I took them to LSN Coatings in Castleford where they were chemically stripped, blasted and powder coated for £160 for the 4 (£40 each). Apart from a few minor pit marks where the rust had got a hold on the metal which you have to look very closely to see, I think they look great. Choice of colours and different silvers, mine are Old silver  which has the least sparkle and is nearest to the standard silver paint they were originally done in.

Check out their website.

Ralph

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Edited by Ralph Whitaker
Mention of colour
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We have a quality company here is Sussex, Bulldog Blasting in Ringmer., Sussex.  This probably a bit far for you !!! But he does a good job and spends all day in a large barn full of dust and the air is very poor quality. I feel sorry for him.

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I hope he has proper breathing apparatus 

shouldn’t be using companies that cut corners on safety 

IMO

 

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Powder coating is not the best solution either.

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Thanks Guys, interested to hear why not powder coated? I think that's what they are now. I have tried to paint one but it reacts with the coating. Not sure if that means it cannot be powder coated as an original coat or not. 

Neil

 

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After spending money on powder coating then having the rubber fitted surely the prosses of putting on the tyres removes or chips the powder coating on the rims allowing them to rust again and also look tatty, money down the drain i would say, if you paint them yourself then you could touch up the paint after the rubber is fitted, this is my thinking on the subject, 

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1 hour ago, R.M. said:

After spending money on powder coating then having the rubber fitted surely the prosses of putting on the tyres removes or chips the powder coating on the rims allowing them to rust again and also look tatty, money down the drain i would say, if you paint them yourself then you could touch up the paint after the rubber is fitted, this is my thinking on the subject, 

Surely then the tyre fitter is not taking enough care. I put my own tyres on and none of mine are chipped.

Sounds like you have had a bad experience with some poor quality cold coating.

 

Ralph.

Edited by Ralph Whitaker
Additional paragraph.
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1 hour ago, NCS_TR3A said:

Thanks Guys, interested to hear why not powder coated? I think that's what they are now. I have tried to paint one but it reacts with the coating. Not sure if that means it cannot be powder coated as an original coat or not. 

Neil

 

Unlikely to be powder coated. I have had items powder coated as a base coat and then painted over them, my D1 Bantam is a case in point where the original mint green could not be matched in a powder so the entire frame and mudguards etc were coated black and sprayed with 2 pack. Can also be used a a filler coat on pitted metal and flatted back to a smooth surface prior to painting. 

Whatever refinishing method you choose you will probably have to pay for them blasting anyway.

Ralph

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1 hour ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Surely then the tyre fitter is not taking enough care. I put my own tyres on and none of mine are chipped.

Sounds like you have had a bad experience with some poor quality cold coating.

 

Ralph.

now you mention it no, no problems with my wheels,  you are more than likely right about that, alloy wheels would mark if the tyre setting tool was too aggressive leading to many insurance claims from disgruntled customers, maybe what i have seen over the years are owners fitting their own wheels with back on with metal tyre levers and probably not putting the tyre on something soft rather having them scrape across the ground while they wrestle the rubber back on.

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Powder coating has its place, this isn't one of them. Wire wheels a very flexible by their construction and powder coating is thick and non flexible. In time both ends of the spokes will start to rust, this goes for chrome in the end too.

Mine were factory paint finish and looking a little scruffy after 12 years service so I clean/de-greased them thoroughly and used scotchbrite pads, these are like kitchen scourers but come in a range of grades. Put your favorite tunes on and get stuck in, about an hour per wheel. Then primer, light flat over and spray.

I have a turn table I made (out of a Cortina mk5 timing belt bearing and a disc of MDF) which works well. Might be a little daunting if your not used to spraying things regularly, (its part of my job and I have the kit) but IF you have the time its very rewarding and as mentioned before, touch up is easy.

probably took 3/4 of a litre of colour. Have to say I opened the silver up and couldn't bring myself to use it (as they would look the same as everyone else's!) so I wacked a dollop of Black in to bring the it down, very happy..... The present Mrs Cluley wasn't quite so happy as I was spraying them the night before we caught the ferry to the Isle of Wight to go on holiday last year :rolleyes:

Slightly darker doesn't show the brake dust either B)

IMG_20190621_200948 (2).jpg

Edited by Nigel C
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7 hours ago, Nigel C said:

Powder coating has its place, this isn't one of them. Wire wheels a very flexible by their construction and powder coating is thick and non flexible. In time both ends of the spokes will start to rust, this goes for chrome in the end too.

 

Are you saying that this will not happen with painted wheels then ?

Ralph

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no, there is still the same amount of movement of the spokes etc but IMHO paint is a thinner coating in general and seems to adhere better over time (IF applied well). With powder coating, if a crack appears then moisture can/does track/travel behind it.

I get it that powder coating is easy to get done (no hard graft by the owner) and whilst you're having it blasted its easy to get it coated; the finish is nice and shiny and a lot of the surface pitting for instance has gone (due to the thickness). Chassis' and suspension seem to be common items but I've found in the past components that are bolted/clamped to it crack this surface and again moisture travels behind and it finally comes away like a sheet of plastic.

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8 hours ago, Nigel C said:

no, there is still the same amount of movement of the spokes etc but IMHO paint is a thinner coating in general and seems to adhere better over time (IF applied well). With powder coating, if a crack appears then moisture can/does track/travel behind it.

I get it that powder coating is easy to get done (no hard graft by the owner) and whilst you're having it blasted its easy to get it coated; the finish is nice and shiny and a lot of the surface pitting for instance has gone (due to the thickness). Chassis' and suspension seem to be common items but I've found in the past components that are bolted/clamped to it crack this surface and again moisture travels behind and it finally comes away like a sheet of plastic.

I too have heard that about the coating cracking, but LSN explained to me that it happens for 2 reasons, one the surface was not blasted to give a good key, and two, most industrial companies use a cold coating process, ie the powder is sprayed on to the item cold, and then heated in the oven and sometimes this is enough to melt the surface powder but not sustained long enough to ensure a good key to the metal. Everything at LSN is HOT coated, ie the item is heated in the oven first and then taken out and coated whilst hot and the powder melts into the surface on contact.

I can only go by my own experiences using LSN for the last 25 or more years on different projects, and I know how difficult it is to remove, such as when needing to obtain a good earth point, usually needing to resort to filing or similar to get down to bare metal.

Each to their own as they say, but I have always been delighted with results on my items. On the TR apart from the wheels, I have had most of the suspension components, including the coil springs coated, the skid plate under the radiator, the rocker cover in silver, the hood frame, center dash panel in wrinkle black, and various brackets etc.

On the Austin the front spring pans and coil springs were coated, the rad grill in silver, as were the steel wheels (2 sets), the dashboard in wrinkle black. After 12 years, mostly stood outside in all weathers, the current wheels are showing slight signs of rusting deep in the centre where the nave plate is welded to the rim, but I was told this might happen as it is impossible both to get existing rust out and get the powder deep in to the crack, and I was advised to run some waxoyl or similar in to delay the rust creeping out.

Similarly my Vitesse has many powder coated parts. 2 of my BSA motorcycles are entirely powder coated, the black 250 and the burgundy D3.with no painted parts at all.

So if it`s testimonials you want from an entirely satisfied customer, look no further.

I must point out that although I have got to know the guys (and gal) at LSN over the 25 or more years I have been using them, I have no connection to the business and gain no reward from reccomending their services, though as a regular I do sometimes get a discount or a bit of "preferential" pricing.

Anyway, I am not touting for business for them, just relating my own experience, and one must decide for oneself.

Ralph.

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Gents, 

      It's a really interesting conversation. I have all the spray kit but I wouldn't say I do a lot so spraying. A lot more when I was younger. The wheels are not that bad but I have tried to spray one of then with silver with slight metallic base coat with a plan to spray a 2 pack lacquer over it. The base coat has reacted and so I'm into a bigger job. The 2 pack doesn't react though (I tried just to check) 

      So now I think I'm into shot blasting anyway, so tyres off and blast. With this in mind I thought I might as well get them done well. From what I've picked up you can paint on top of powder coat so I have this option at a later date if I choose to refresh in a few years if needed. 

Ralf, I've contacted LSN after your initial recommendation. They are about an hour away from me so not that bad really. They quote £180, but that includes taking tyres off and putting back on. 

  Overall it sounds like a reasonable first step and I can see how they degrade over the coming years and make further decisions at that stage. Thanks all for your thoughts, its always good to get a wider view. 

  I'm actually thinking of going a slightly darker silver just to be a little different :)

 

Thanks, 

Neil

Edited by NCS_TR3A
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Hi Neil, just a thought, how long have the tyres been on, just wondering if the rim tapes will be ok to re use or whether you will need new ones.

Ralph.

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Hi Ralf, 

     Not sure I know what rim tapes are. I changed the tyres 3 years ago, not because the they were worn, just because they were around 15 years old. The tyres have inner tubes fitted. I'll be Googling rim tapes now :)

Neil

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22 minutes ago, NCS_TR3A said:

Hi Ralf, 

     Not sure I know what rim tapes are. I changed the tyres 3 years ago, not because the they were worn, just because they were around 15 years old. The tyres have inner tubes fitted. I'll be Googling rim tapes now :)

Neil

Rim tapes are used to cover the spoke ends where they enter the wheel rim. They protect the inner tube, where fitted, and help to provide an air tight seal.

Rob

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Neil, might be a good idea to supply LSN with new tapes to fit just in case.

Ralph

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Only last week I asked the paintshop manager of the local jag dealer what it would cost to have my wire wheels repainted. He told me they sent theirs to a company that removes the tyres, strips them, powder coats them then refits the tyres. Its about £60 per wheel. They have not had any problems over the years, but I suppose it depends on how many years your looking at.

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49 minutes ago, Phil Read said:

Only last week I asked the paintshop manager of the local jag dealer what it would cost to have my wire wheels repainted. He told me they sent theirs to a company that removes the tyres, strips them, powder coats them then refits the tyres. Its about £60 per wheel. They have not had any problems over the years, but I suppose it depends on how many years your looking at.

I suspect he was quoting you based on them having alloys refurbed not wires.

Stuart

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A question I've always wondered about and not seen mentioned in any post on this subject is that the original Dunlop wire wheels as fitted to my TR4 out of the factory had a coating of clear lacquer over the silver painted surface. In my opinion they look much better finished this way - yet no one seems to mention it these days?

Cheers,

JEFF

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