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Front Engine Plate Warped - Update


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Hello, in the process of checking all bits before re-assembling, one of the reasons for the rebuild was to try and cure, or reduce, the many oil leaks, there was a substantial weep from the front.  After Stuart posted a comment about front plates I checked mine and sure enough it is warped.  Across the flanges it is good but further towards the top the gap from edge to edge is in excess of 25 thou, admittedly less between the bolt holes but still a gap.  My question is will the bolts pull the plate flush? or do I need to do something more drastic? Cheers, Andrew

Edited by AndrewMAshton
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1 hour ago, AndrewMAshton said:

Hello, in the process of checking all bits before re-assembling, one of the reasons for the rebuild was to try and cure, or reduce, the many oil leaks, there was a substantial weep from the front.  After Stuart posted a comment about front plates I checked mine and sure enough it is warped.  Across the flanges it is good but further towards the top the gap from edge to edge is in excess of 25 thou, admittedly less between the bolt holes but still a gap.  My question is will the bolts pull the plate flush? or do I need to do something more drastic? Cheers, Andrew

I ended up changing the bent one I had.

Stuart.

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I don't know if 25 thou bend would clamp down okay and not leak but if it was my car, I wouldn't take the chance. New alloy versions are £40-50, presumably old steel ones are cheaper.

Nigel

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Not sure which TR we were talking about, but on a 6, I think the front plate is under 3/16" thick, so the fasteners should easily flatten a 0.025" bow.  those plates were probably stamped and punched, so a little bow might have been normal.

OTOH, new plate is not that expensive.  Check the new one for bow.

Ed

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7 hours ago, AndrewMAshton said:

Hello, in the process of checking all bits before re-assembling, one of the reasons for the rebuild was to try and cure, or reduce, the many oil leaks, there was a substantial weep from the front.  After Stuart posted a comment about front plates I checked mine and sure enough it is warped.  Across the flanges it is good but further towards the top the gap from edge to edge is in excess of 25 thou, admittedly less between the bolt holes but still a gap.  My question is will the bolts pull the plate flush? or do I need to do something more drastic? Cheers, Andrew

Andrew,

You don't say which engine, 4 or 6 cylinder? If it's a 6 cylinder I have a spare original steel saloon engine front plate which you can have for £20 + P & P. Saloon exactly same as TR6 but with 2 legs, which attach the engine mounts, that need cutting off. PM me if interested.

Dave McD

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When it's bent, no turning back. Tried in a press there's no way to get it flat again. If it leaked before, it will leak again. I had a new one laser-cut locally 2mm ticker than the original. There are few ensuing adjustments to make especially around the crank/camshafts outlets but this one is good for the rest of the century.

Edited by Geko
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  • AndrewMAshton changed the title to Front Engine Plate Warped - Update

Hello again, an interesting afternoon, since my original post I wondered if the front plate, it is a 4A by the way, was salvageable so what I needed to do was bolt it up and measure the gap between the mating surfaces, thank goodness for YouTube.  I cleaned up the mating surfaces and applied Plastigauge held in place with grease at a number of locations between the bolt holes, offered up the plate and bolted down to 16 foot pounds as per WSM, removed the plate and the gap varied between 2 and 3 thou, which I suspect can be taken up with gasket and gasket cement, any thoughts?  Incidentally this is not about doing things on the cheap, if I had to buy another plate it would be like sending Rishi Sunak £20 to put towards the deficit.  This is about having fun, although rather expensive fun, cheers, Andrew

Front Plate 1.JPG

Front Plate 2.JPG

Front Plate 3.JPG

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