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In the shed this weekend.


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Great stuff, that's a very long drill !   When you use the stretch indicator, will you also note what torque you need to get the required stretch.

Will be interested how near it is the 45 ft lb.

I presume you have your parts back from C & M by now ?

Bob.

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19 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Great stuff, that's a very long drill !   When you use the stretch indicator, will you also note what torque you need to get the required stretch.

Will be interested how near it is the 45 ft lb.

I presume you have your parts back from C & M by now ?

Bob.

Trick is to measure bolt unfitted and set dial to zero

Tighten lubricated bolt in con rod to suggested ft lbs

Measure bolt stretch.

If within given stretch keep torque wrench set and tight all con rods as required to that known torque.

here is a video on it 

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Not so much this weekend, but as it is holidays, In the shed today. Had quite a productive day and managed to get all the rear cockpit cappings and trim fitted, along with one of the seatbelts.

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What is the difference between the bolts you are measuring and normal stretch bolts. Just curious as stretch bolts are not supposed to be re used but if you are tightening all of yours to check them doesn`t that render them un usable again, or do you sacrifice 1 to find the required torque needed to obtain the neccessary stretch.

Ralph.

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13 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

What is the difference between the bolts you are measuring and normal stretch bolts. Just curious as stretch bolts are not supposed to be re used but if you are tightening all of yours to check them doesn`t that render them un usable again, or do you sacrifice 1 to find the required torque needed to obtain the neccessary stretch.

Ralph.

good question

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Nice job Peter, to late for me to borrow it though !

Will be interested to hear what torque you apply to get the required stretch. I torqued mine to 45 ft lb as per instructions. I did work out that 50° of rotation would stretch the required amount, but from what starting point ?  Other ARP bolts I have used specify a starting torque, followed by a specified amount of rotation.

Bob.

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14 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

What is the difference between the bolts you are measuring and normal stretch bolts. 

The ARP site implies that theirs are not 'stretch bolts'.  As I understand it a 'stretch bolt' is for one-use-only as it is tightened beyond the elastic limit of the material to the flat portion of the stress-strain curve, to give a constant load to the joint over a range of strain. (with a normal bolt the stress and load on the joint varies with changes of  temperature or other factors).

ARP say the fasteners should be discarded if there is a permanent length change of 0.0005" or more (which would mean they have gone into the 'plastic' region).  That means ARP fasteners are intended for use in the 'elastic' region of the curve only, so re-use should be fine.

https://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php#p7TPMc1_3

Edited by RobH
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7 minutes ago, RobH said:

The ARP site implies that theirs are not 'stretch bolts'.  As I understand it a 'stretch bolt' is for one-use-only as it is tightened beyond the elastic limit of the material to the flat portion of the stress-strain curve, to give a constant load to the joint over a range of stress. (with a normal bolt the strain and load on the joint varies with changes of stress through temperature or other factors).

ARP say the fasteners should be discarded if there is a permanent length change of 0.0005" or more (which would mean they have gone into the 'plastic' region).  That means ARP fasteners are intended for use in the 'elastic' region of the curve only, so re-use should be fine.

https://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php#p7TPMc1_3

thanks for the clarification

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39 minutes ago, R.M. said:

good question

It will be to do with the alloying properties of the steel. Normal steels exhibit a Yield point at which the strain increases without an increase in stress and the strain is inelastic. High yield steels don’t behave in the same way and fail suddenly without exhibiting a yield point. 

Rgds Ian

Edited by Ian Vincent
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1 hour ago, RobH said:

 

ARP say the fasteners should be discarded if there is a permanent length change of 0.0005" or more (which would mean they have gone into the 'plastic' region).  That means ARP fasteners are intended for use in the 'elastic' region of the curve only, so re-use should be fine.

https://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php#p7TPMc1_3

That`s a fine tolerance. I would think you could get that just by holding it in your hand for a few minutes and warming it up.

Ralph

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Nice workshop.

Ralph

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Ive started Phase III of my CB550 restoration, Project Scruffy Racer!

Phase  I was to get Scruffy running, engine was siezed, electrics burned out and nothing worked when i bought it in March

Phase II was cosmetics and suspension, Orange paint and Hagon suspension with cartridge emilators

Phase III is to do a top end rebuild on the engine, and to increase capacity to 600cc,  it’ll be interesting to see inside what was a siezed motor!

This morning i took a perfectely serviceable motorbike to pieces ! 

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52D169E4-E028-4BBA-94F9-6C732F6F7280.jpeg

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4 hours ago, Lebro said:

That's what I thought too.

Bob

 

Yup, way too much on the go.  But I'm committed now.  It is the logistics side of things that really frustrates me.  But that is inexperience and lack of a good, established network beyond this forum for sourcing reliably and quickly.  I am starting to think there is room for an upstart parts supplier based on real quality at a competitive price and outstanding customer service in this niche though.  But that may just be me not knowing my way around just yet.

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Had a few good days this week, fitted 2 map lights, the first was the small one intended as an interior light as Triumph never fitted one, the flexi light I re discovered while looking for something else, so thought it would look better on the TR than in the box of junk. Need a small terry clip for the end of that one. Installed the auxilliary socket for the sat nav etc, wired the whole lot up to the extra fuse box under the dash.

Today I have been getting on with the carpets. Had to break out the sowing machine and put some edging on the footwell side pieces, and managed to get most of the carpets to fit with some alterations, just the under seat ones to do tomorrow and mount the seats. Also fitted a clock I already had in a plastic pod from ebay which I am quite pleased with.

I am not back at work until the 11th, and only then if there is something to do, so I think I will be running out of things to do until I get some better weather to paint the doors and get them fitted.

Ralph

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Edited by Ralph Whitaker
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4 hours ago, Steves_TR6 said:

Ive started Phase III of my CB550 restoration, Project Scruffy Racer!

Phase  I was to get Scruffy running, engine was siezed, electrics burned out and nothing worked when i bought it in March

Phase II was cosmetics and suspension, Orange paint and Hagon suspension with cartridge emilators

Phase III is to do a top end rebuild on the engine, and to increase capacity to 600cc,  it’ll be interesting to see inside what was a siezed motor!

This morning i took a perfectely serviceable motorbike to pieces ! 

F8688318-E54A-48B0-A4A8-0AD017E73DDA.jpeg

52D169E4-E028-4BBA-94F9-6C732F6F7280.jpeg

Always been a bit scared of Japanese motorcycle engines, but that is a nice looking bike.

Ralph

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28 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Always been a bit scared of Japanese motorcycle engines, but that is a nice looking bike.

Ralph

Thanks Ralph

once you get the hang of the things the Honda 4s are very simple

My 550 is a mid 70’s SOHC motor so only 8 valves, last month i rebuilt a friends 16v DOHC 750 engine which was a bit more complex!

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Latest achievement. Despite having made up my mind to buy the door panels, yesterday I found myself with nothing to do, and having already bought the vinyl at the start of the first lock down, and having new pockets picked up for £1 each when Moss had an online sale a couple of years ago, I decided to have a go.

I had some 3.5mm ply in the shed, and after a false start when I forgot to allow for the capping on the doors, I cut a couple of panels and covered them with thin wadding and vinyl etc. I am quite pleased with the results, they fit the doors well, and I think I have got the shape of the pocket opening fairly right judging by pictures of others on the net.

Best thing is I`ve saved myself £150

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IMG-20210106-WA0002.jpeg

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