In the shed this weekend.

[Ralph Whitaker]

On 8/6/2022 at 6:14 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Hi Ralph,

Do you have the down pipe gasket ?  I am sure I have a few NOS Triumph copper ones lurking in the gasket drawer.  Spares as I no longer have a manifold to down-pipe joint requiring a gasket. 

PM if you want one or two in the post.

 

Not going for the Jaguar fix then...

Drill out stud from below and fit nut and bolt.

Peter W

Thanks Peter, I used my last spare gasket and was about to order a couple from Moss but if you have some better quality original items I will avail myself if you can spare a couple. 

Managed to get the broken stud out with plenty of heat from the oxy acetylene, luckily there was enough left to get the stilsons on, so carried on to replace all 3. Next one came out, but the last one broke inside the hole and had to be drilled out, but all replaced now and did 100 miles yesterday with no problems.

I noticed that the inlet and exhaust manifold flanges were not sitting level with each other when bolted together, so drilled out the 2 holes where they bolt together to allow a bit of movement and only tightened the nuts after the manifolds were clamped to the head.

I will PM you with my address re the gaskets.

Thanks, Ralph

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

6 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Thanks Peter, I used my last spare gasket and was about to order a couple from Moss but if you have some better quality original items I will avail myself if you can spare a couple. 

Managed to get the broken stud out with plenty of heat from the oxy acetylene, luckily there was enough left to get the stilsons on, so carried on to replace all 3. Next one came out, but the last one broke inside the hole and had to be drilled out, but all replaced now and did 100 miles yesterday with no problems.

I noticed that the inlet and exhaust manifold flanges were not sitting level with each other when bolted together, so drilled out the 2 holes where they bolt together to allow a bit of movement and only tightened the nuts after the manifolds were clamped to the head.

I will PM you with my address re the gaskets.

Thanks, Ralph

Ralph.

The answer is yes.  I need your postal address please.

Peter W

Edited August 8, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Getting closer with the hinges.

Made phosphor bronze thrust washers for each end of the leaf.  0.030” thick

Had to mill a clearance in the flap to allow the grease nipple to pass when the door is closed!

Next task is press the hinge pins home and return to their owner.

Peter W

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Double post

Edited August 8, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Getting closer with the hinges.

Made phosphor bronze thrust washers for each end of the leaf.  0.030” thick

Had to mill a clearance in the flap to allow the grease nipple to pass when the door is closed!

Next task is press the hinge pins home and return to their owner.

Peter W

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Just now, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Getting closer with the hinges.

Made phosphor bronze thrust washers for each end of the leaf.  0.030” thick

Had to mill a clearance in the flap to allow the grease nipple to pass when the door is closed!

Next task is press the hinge pins home and return to their owner.

Peter W

WTF?

Edited August 8, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Fixed the broken duck boards with timber left over from brother’s new summer house.  Now I do not trip on broken boards or sink into split ones

The original duck boards were the sides of packing cases from an India engineering companies delivery of cylinder liners, United Engineering of Ahmedabad.  https://united-cylinderliners.com/. (and they still list TR wet liners in 86 & 87 mm)

They lasted well but have started to break up some 40 years after their first use as duck boards.   The pistons & liners are going ok too in an engine they were fitted to for test purposes.

Edited August 14, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Tidied up and fully fixed the overdrive logic controller made and supplied by RogerH  the box is up by the master cylinder pocket.  I modified an original switch casing to get the momentary switch installed and the ‘on’ warning LED.

Works as expected.

Now have to remember to not switch out of overdrive when changing gear as the box does all that for me.

The  warning light is dimmable when the instrument lights are on, a very welcome feature for night driving.

Thank you Roger.

Peter W

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

On 8/6/2022 at 1:51 PM, Ian Vincent said:

I fitted grease nipples in my hinges when I refurbed the hinges during my rebuild.   Not having the wherewithal to machine a grease groove, I just pressed the new pins (made out of 9mm rod) home and put a blob of weld on the end to hold them in place. The grease gun needs a bit of a squeeze to get the grease to flow but it does get there.  I suspect they will outlast me.

Rgds Ian

PS Does anyone have a fix that stops the door dropping slightly when the sidescreens are attached, even though there is no obvious play in the hinges.  It seems like the back plate of the door distorts slightly.

This is Stuarts A post bracing.

He will correct me if it was not his photo I have reproduced  

 

 

Edited August 18, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Ian Vincent]

Thanks Peter,  (& Stuart) I have the technology to do that.

 Rgds Ian

[Lebro]

Not this weekend, but yesterday !

I wanted to fit 2 X remote controllers for the new sat nav / radio etc fitted to my Jeep. Tried various locations, but decided the best place would be inside the steering wheel just above the existing cruise control panels. This required some special brackets to be made to suit the contours of the rear of the wheel.

Started with CAD (Cardboard Assisted Design), then transferred to 1.5mm aluminium alloy sheet.  Lots of trial & error to get the shape right, but got there in the end.

    

Click on to enlarge.

Bob

[Richardtr3a]

That is a serious bit of work Bob. Well done

Richard & B

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Quick release bonnet and boot hinge pivot pins to assist brother’s rebuild.  

He has an old set of hinges with the pivot pins punched out, each part of the hinge is fitted to either body or hinging panel (boot bonnet)    The pins slide in and out simply to allow quick removal of the panel when testing fit.

 

The scruffy ends are because these are made from old Hoover Senior brush axles that were worn to excess.

 

Edited October 10, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Lebro]

That's a deep knurl you have there, must be a good tool to do that.

Bob

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

6 minutes ago, Lebro said:

That's a deep knurl you have there, must be a good tool to do that.

Bob

Not as crisp as I would have liked.
 

 

This tool from Hemingway.  http://www.hemingwaykits.com/cgi-bin/sh000029.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.hemingwaykits.com%2f&WD=knurling&PN=Knurling_Tool.html%23aHK_201110#aHK_201110
 

These Knurling wheels from RDG

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=knurling&PN=HSS-KNURLING-WHEELS-HSS---COARSE---3-4--DIA-93200234.html#SID=296

 

plus lots of suds.

Edited October 10, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

A collection of tasks.

Drilling an angled 12 mm hole  through 20 mm spot welder arms to hold electrodes at 20 to 25 degrees 

Next task was check the level of the lathe bed and the centring of the tail stock to the head stock   Now within half a thou up down and side to side over 10” of bed travel.  This is done using a ground test bar - thank you brother.
 

Final task was to tram the milling head to the table    That now within 0.0003” across the length of the table.

 

 

Edited January 30, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Motorsport Mickey]

As a relative newcomer to spot welding, with the angled electrodes coming together at an angle, I take it the contact faces are filed so they contact through the workpiece with parallel faces ?

Mick Richards

[boxofbits]

38 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

As a relative newcomer to spot welding, with the angled electrodes coming together at an angle, I take it the contact faces are filed so they contact through the workpiece with parallel faces ?

Mick Richards

Hi Mick

The contact faces are ground to be hemispherical usually, which creates a weld of approximately 1/8” and allows some rotation of the electrodes and machine when welding. There is still a small contact point in the centre of the electrode.

 

Kevin

 

Edited January 30, 2023 by boxofbits

[Motorsport Mickey]

Thanks for that Kevin, my electrode "sharpener " creates the hemi spherical shape and I've used that on flat panel faces with the electrodes about at 90 deg to each other, as shown in your photo.

I wondered if the angled electrodes would still use the hemi shape or need a parallel face, the action of the applied electrode moves in 2 arcs, towards the other electrode and also being pulled across it. Hemi shape it is.

Mick Richards

[Lebro]

Been a busy boy Peter. (wish I had a mill, but no room !)

I know how to center the tailstock sideways, but how did you adjust verticaly ?

bob

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

1 hour ago, Lebro said:

Been a busy boy Peter. (wish I had a mill, but no room !)

I know how to center the tailstock sideways, but how did you adjust verticaly ?

bob

You need two 1/10 th clocks one for vertical one for horizontal.   Set them to zero as near the headstock as possible, turn the spindle to prove concentricity.  
That’s why a ground check bar is used that fits the morse taper in the headstock spindle concentrically.  

 It is used first to check/abjust for twist & rise/drop in the bed.  Mine was low at the tail stock end so adjusted it up a couple of thou with the end adjuster after slacking the hold down bolts.   Then adjust for twist along the bed, using the front and back adjusters at the tailstock end of the bed, again adjustment was needed.  Bolting it all down finds a small change of about 1/2 thou.  I had previously set the bed level in x and y axis using a spirit level and that was clearly not accurate enough for precision turning.    There are videos out there about doing this without the test bar but you will need a length of ground silver steel 7/8” dia (biggest that will go in my Boxford) 

try this   https://hackaday.com/2018/08/07/lathe-headstock-alignment/

 

After Using the morse taper mounted test bar for setting the bed the tailstock is fitted with a centre and that inserted in the end of the bar’s csk. The bar will flex from zero if the tailstock is out of line, simply adjust the tailstock then side to side.    Slow task as the tailstock clamp must be released to make the sideways adjustments, reclamped and the csk re inserted to the bar and any bar deflection observed.   A bit hit and miss but satisfying when it clocks up as expected.    Maybe now I will not turn unintentional tapers on long work pieces.   A test skim along a bar held first in the collet then between centres finds any unintentional taper.

 

 

Edited January 30, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Lebro]

HMM  I see, Had not thought of actually altering the bed mountings to get the tailstock center at the right height.

Will take a look.

Thanks

 Bob.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

25 minutes ago, Lebro said:

HMM  I see, Had not thought of actually altering the bed mountings to get the tailstock center at the right height.

Will take a look.

Thanks

 Bob.

Shimming is the other way but I would think the tail stock to lathe ways would be fairly worn.  Probably a stock thing to do on modern cheap import machines due to hit or miss precision and poor material choice.  Some one could work out the trigonometry I suppose of a tool on centre at the head stock but 0.004" low 20" away when supported by the tail stock centre.  What the change in cutting diameter is, as the tool cuts further up the circumference of the work.  Any mathematical types wish to work that out?

[boxofbits]

12 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Thanks for that Kevin, my electrode "sharpener " creates the hemi spherical shape and I've used that on flat panel faces with the electrodes about at 90 deg to each other, as shown in your photo.

I wondered if the angled electrodes would still use the hemi shape or need a parallel face, the action of the applied electrode moves in 2 arcs, towards the other electrode and also being pulled across it. Hemi shape it is.

Mick Richards

Yes, in practice it’s a tricky one, as getting in awkward places means sometimes you can’t help but hold the machine at an angle, so some ‘roll’ of the head of the electrode seems inevitable when trying to clamp the workpieces together.

Kevin 

[Ian Vincent]

1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Shimming is the other way but I would think the tail stock to lathe ways would be fairly worn.  Probably a stock thing to do on modern cheap import machines due to hit or miss precision and poor material choice.  Some one could work out the trigonometry I suppose of a tool on centre at the head stock but 0.004" low 20" away when supported by the tail stock centre.  What the change in cutting diameter is, as the tool cuts further up the circumference of the work.  Any mathematical types wish to work that out?

If I knew what the hell you were talking about, I could probably do the maths.