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In the shed this weekend.


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On 1/7/2021 at 12:53 PM, MilesA said:

My old pockets had been cut into by the cables when used to open the doors, so I slipped pieces of slit windscreen washer tubing over the new pocket edges to protect them. In practice I use the external handle to open the door except on the rare occasions when the sidescreen is in place. 

Miles

Should be a metal hook riveted to the trim panel inner face to support the cable so it does not cut the door pocket.

 

Peter W

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Should be a metal hook riveted to the trim panel inner face to support the cable so it does not cut the door pocket.

 

Peter W

Noticed on John Skinners door cards there is a nylon or plastic block on the back next to to pocket, which I presume is a guide for the cable.

Ralph

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2 hours ago, roy53 said:

How about TR 3 Stuart ?   [ not 3a ]

TR3 doesnt have the buttons either.

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Should be a metal hook riveted to the trim panel inner face to support the cable so it does not cut the door pocket.

 

Peter W

Correct and often missed on repros.

Stuart.

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Just now, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

My kit came from Roadster Factory and included the metal hook.

Peter W

Manufactured in this country IIRC.

Stuart,

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

TR3 doesnt have the buttons either.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart,  so the same as a tr2. Dose anyone have a photo of this ?   Also the metal hook mentioned.

Roy

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Taking note of the mention of the metal hook to prevent the door release cable cutting into the cardboard pocket, I modified a couple of picture hooks and have attached these to the back of the door panels with epoxy glue. I have not seen any originals, so this is my best guess at shape and placing on the panel.

Ralph

20210109_121820.jpg

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10 minutes ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Taking note of the mention of the metal hook to prevent the door release cable cutting into the cardboard pocket, I modified a couple of picture hooks and have attached these to the back of the door panels with epoxy glue. I have not seen any originals, so this is my best guess at shape and placing on the panel.

Ralph

20210109_121820.jpg

Looks good.

here is a photo of my old door casing.  Hook is at the back only.

 

006E31B7-5930-46DC-A692-BBFF844E4521.jpeg

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When I removed the right side door (needed to grind some bad welds) one of the bolts fell in behind the panel.  IS here a way to retriever it without removing the fender? 

IMG_4451.JPG.2b6ee47393d5b76a62917945d5250e25.JPG

 

Also, is there any reason not to significantly shorten the hoses for the heater?  These were cut to the same length as the hoses being replaced.

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33 minutes ago, David Owen said:

When I removed the right side door (needed to grind some bad welds) one of the bolts fell in behind the panel.  IS here a way to retriever it without removing the fender? 

IMG_4451.JPG.2b6ee47393d5b76a62917945d5250e25.JPG

 

Also, is there any reason not to significantly shorten the hoses for the heater?  These were cut to the same length as the hoses being replaced.

Inside the rear of the front fender is a bolted on sealer or baffle plate.   If you remove that it may give enough access.  Challenge is undoing the bolts that  hold the plate in place.

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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38 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Or what about removing the circular "speaker" plate on the inside ?

Bob.

Do they all have that? 

Ralph.

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1 minute ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Do they all have that? 

Ralph.

Not on late cars no.

Stuart.

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Looks good.

here is a photo of my old door casing.  Hook is at the back only.

 

006E31B7-5930-46DC-A692-BBFF844E4521.jpeg

Not a bad guess then, I got it pretty much spot on by the look of yours, and almost the same shape.

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16 minutes ago, David Owen said:

 

You did.  How close are you to driving?

My target is this spring if we are allowed to play out. I can see there being a delay in the registration process due to Covid restrictions though, so I am starting the process now if possible to get a head start. 

Ralph

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32 minutes ago, David Owen said:

 

If I remove the left side sealer plate would I be able to see if the captive nuts for the dimmer switch mount are installed?

Yes you should be able to if you can get it undone.

Stuart.

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33 minutes ago, David Owen said:

 

If I remove the left side sealer plate would I be able to see if the captive nuts for the dimmer switch mount are installed?

My comment about late cars was in reference to the speaker hole in the right hand footwell side not being fitted on late cars.

Stuart.

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I’ve decided to have Scruffy’s engine out for paint, being as lockdown not set to end anytime soon.

so today cleaned and primed the removable covers

tomorrow will have the engine cases out and bolt them to engine stand for prep and paint

 

2A9E7857-9665-4CD2-8B99-5D44F0A14FDD.jpeg

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5 hours ago, stuart said:

Yes you should be able to if you can get it undone.

Stuart.

Thank you.

 

5 hours ago, stuart said:

My comment about late cars was in reference to the speaker hole in the right hand footwell side not being fitted on late cars.

Stuart.

Got it.

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On 11/30/2020 at 6:19 PM, David Owen said:

 

 

Thanks.  If they break I will find someone competent to show me how to remove them.

Hello David, did you find someone competent to remove them? The o rings on my 3A tranny leak badly. I have an extra lid which I planned to re-do with new o rings and use. But in spite of all care the square screws sheared off. I used every tool I had and extractors I had to buy and every fluid I’ve heard of but the sheared off, hardened stubs, are still in there. I’d gladly send the lid to someone who could extract the broken screws. Thanks. Paul

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