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In the shed this weekend.


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Not a lot of posting on here at present, everyone must be getting ready for Christmas, so I thought I would post my efforts for the general amusement of readers.

Decided to fit the new glovebox I had purchased some time ago, and made that my aim yesterday (Sunday). First problem was that I had fitted the overdrive relay on top of the heater support bracket not realising it would be in the way. Whilst on with moving that, I decided to move the main wiring loom which I had run over the heater support brackets behind the heater, along with the rev counter cable. This lot was preventing the heater unit sitting further back against the battery box, and the room gained would leave more room for the centre instrument panel wiring which was currently pressed up to the heater matrix.

Next problem was the heater hose, which was hanging in the way on the passenger side, so I used a 1/4 pipe clip bolted through one of the spare holes in the bulkhead, to enable me to secure the hose up to the bulkhead with a cable tie.

Finally was able to offer up the glovebox and coax it into place behind the opening in the dash. The box has cutouts which locate the perimeter around the opening and managed to get a pre punched hole to line up with the top bracket and get a self tapper and washer in to hold it in place. My Dash being a re-pro I didn`t have any holes in the bottom edge, si drilled three holes along the edge up into the glovebox itself, and secured with self tappers and spire nuts. So far so good.

Next I managed to contort myself into position laid on the floor with feet up by the fuel tank so that I could mark where the top bracket needed securing on the glovebox. The original bracket is now too short by about an inch and will not span the gap between the bulkhead and the box. So need a re think.

I have some ally angle and was looking at the possibility of running a piece of this at the back of the box between the heater support bracket and the side of the bulkhead which would take the weight of the box and contents. Not original I know, but probably better.

It was while mulling this over and taking measurements I realised that I have not yet fitted drain pipes to the vent, and that I wouldn`t be able to once the glovebox was fitted. You can barely reach anyway from the passenger side, and no chance from the drivers side over the column support bracket etc.

So finished the day with the glovebox back in it`s cardboard box where it started the day, and ordering some 3/8 bore rubber tube off ebay.

I will get it finished one day.

Ralph

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The joys Ralph, its why we do this classic car thingy, the satisfaction you'll enjoy when you, 'Win.'

I've been using Lockdown to kick on my very long term, Tr3A Project, and now going through a myriad of boxes, I seem to

be able to find three of where there should be four of something, small domed guages being the latest!

John.

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Hi Ralph, 

I'm with you on this futile exercise we call classic car ownership.

On Friday I spent the day cut & shaping some stainless steel brackets to hold the new electric rad fan in place on the rad of my 4A

When I finished I was not overly happy but they were functional.

During Friday evening I was not happy at my c*ck-up. and thougt 0f a better neater way.

Saturday I removed Friday's abortion and welded into place a couple of  1/2" x 1/4 x 13 steel strips.

Drilled 4 x M6 holes - job done.  It looks too simple to be anything other than functional.

 

Roger

 

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I am waiting for a 5/16th square nut socket to arrive so I can change the seals in the top cover of the gearbox.  Then I can reassemble the gear box, properly clean and remove all the grease and rust in the foot wells and on the gear box.  Then I can reinstall the modified clutch assembly, the T7 heater and then the wiring harness.

I wish people would use DHL.

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Hi David,

Good luck on removing the wedgelok screws on the gear forks.  Have you got replacements as they do shear off when undoing.

When you replace the 'O' rings make sure the counter bore where they fit is packed so they do not move about.

Also clean the rods coincident with the seals.  They can get quite corroded

 

Roger

 

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49 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi David,

Good luck on removing the wedgelok screws on the gear forks.  Have you got replacements as they do shear off when undoing.

When you replace the 'O' rings make sure the counter bore where they fit is packed so they do not move about.

Also clean the rods coincident with the seals.  They can get quite corroded

 

Roger

 

 

 

Thanks for that Roger.  I noticed the amount of force that would NOT even budge the screws with a 5/16" box wrench.  I thought it was me.  Well it's the right time of year to experience my first sheared bolt.  Hopefully the socket will prevent that.  Says he with everything crossed that can be. :wacko::D 

I did find out after a couple of hours of searching that square sockets are known as pipe plug sockets.  My vocabulary is expanding.  In a few directions.

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1 hour ago, David Owen said:

 

 

Thanks for that Roger.  I noticed the amount of force that would NOT even budge the screws with a 5/16" box wrench.  I thought it was me.  Well it's the right time of year to experience my first sheared bolt.  Hopefully the socket will prevent that.  Says he with everything crossed that can be. :wacko::D 

I did find out after a couple of hours of searching that square sockets are known as pipe plug sockets.  My vocabulary is expanding.  In a few directions.

Hi David,

the 'pipe plug' socket (new one to me) reduces the effort to break the wedgeloks - if they are going t break then they will break.

I did a top cover last  Spring and all three wedgeloks were actually loose.

If you have to drill out the stubs then be very very careful.  You need to be right down the centre f the stub.  If you go off and cause too much damage it is possible to Helicoil the fork.

Roger

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45 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi David,

the 'pipe plug' socket (new one to me) reduces the effort to break the wedgeloks - if they are going t break then they will break.

I did a top cover last  Spring and all three wedgeloks were actually loose.

If you have to drill out the stubs then be very very careful.  You need to be right down the centre f the stub.  If you go off and cause too much damage it is possible to Helicoil the fork.

Roger

 

 

Thanks.  If they break I will find someone competent to show me how to remove them.

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1 hour ago, Lebro said:

I shied off trying to remove those, as I did not want the hassle of removing broken bolts. I hardly had any leakage from there anyway.

Bob.

 

Leaking all over the place.  They definitely need replacing.  I have quickly learned if ain't broke leave it alone.

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I've been labouring for a chippie putting in my new workbenches.

IMG_0517.jpg

IMG_0518.jpg

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Can’t beat a good shed. 
 

my dad had 2  he was known as “2 sheds Roscoe”

:rolleyes:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

This weekend some progress.

Found out why my temperature gauge climbs right off the end of the scale as the engine warms up, it is electronic and needs a 10v regulator in circuit, so a solid state one ordered from ebay. Thats another wiring job for next week.

Wired up my auxiliary fuse box and fitted the butlers map lights and cigarette lighter socket (for sat nav etc).

Offered up my rear trim panels from Aldridge trim, managed to get the back panel in place but a bit tight between the wheelarches, could have been 1/4 inch narrower to good effect but will fit. Decided not to fit the rear wheel arch trim until I have the seatbelts so I don`t have to drill through the vinyl and foam and risk it bunching up on the drill.

Ordered a pair of inertia reel seatbelts, blimey they are dear now, but surprisingly found that Moss were as cheap as anyone on ebay.

Pondered over the glove box lid restraining arrangement. I have a spare Vitesse dashboard and may see if I can use the one from that as the originals are not available.

Hopefully next year I can spend my weekends driving the thing instead of building it, but I am enjoying the build even if it is frustrating sometimes.

Ralph

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I’ve been rebuilding a CB750 engine for a friend, reinstalled the motor this weekend and test fired !

plannis to complete reassembly of the bike and get it on the road this week.

then i can turn my attention to Scruffy, my cb550, whichnis having a rebuild to 600cc 

 

950746C7-3517-4436-9796-C3E51C1F962C.jpeg

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6 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

This weekend some progress.

Found out why my temperature gauge climbs right off the end of the scale as the engine warms up, it is electronic and needs a 10v regulator in circuit, so a solid state one ordered from ebay. Thats another wiring job for next week.

Wired up my auxiliary fuse box and fitted the butlers map lights and cigarette lighter socket (for sat nav etc).

Offered up my rear trim panels from Aldridge trim, managed to get the back panel in place but a bit tight between the wheelarches, could have been 1/4 inch narrower to good effect but will fit. Decided not to fit the rear wheel arch trim until I have the seatbelts so I don`t have to drill through the vinyl and foam and risk it bunching up on the drill.

Ordered a pair of inertia reel seatbelts, blimey they are dear now, but surprisingly found that Moss were as cheap as anyone on ebay.

Pondered over the glove box lid restraining arrangement. I have a spare Vitesse dashboard and may see if I can use the one from that as the originals are not available.

Hopefully next year I can spend my weekends driving the thing instead of building it, but I am enjoying the build even if it is frustrating sometimes.

Ralph

 

 

You must be getting close Ralph.  I am really looking forward to seeing it as it is the same colour(s) as mine originally.

Would you mind putting a picture up of your wiring/fuse box, cigarette lighter socket and the map lights.

Also, I am thinking of buying my wife a set of retractable seat belts for Christmas.  What do you think?  Good idea or the equivalent of buying her a new vacuum cleaner?  Was the part number 222-020?

Getting the heater wired into the garage today if the electrician shows up.  If that happens I will be a very happy man.  I can get all the parts painted I am off to get blasted this morning.

 

 

 

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David, you should know by now, NEVER buy the wife something for the car or the kitchen (unless its a complete new kitchen). 

Seatbelts from Moss were SBS500/30

Ralph

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6 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

David, you should know by now, NEVER buy the wife something for the car or the kitchen (unless its a complete new kitchen). 

Seatbelts from Moss were SBS500/30

Ralph

It all depends on whether or not she behaved herself this year doesn't it? 

Thanks for the part number.

 

 

 

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A small leak from the Lucas heater in my daily driver TR2 got some attention today.

I used a product in the coolant in my long door TR2 which worked very well. I had some more of it so today I got onto using it on my other TR2.

I know, summer is starting here now and the heater won't be needed until next June but I had the inspiration and didn't want to waste inspiration for a pain in the neck job.

First up drain the coolant into a container.  Flush the system with fresh water and then fill it up and run the engine for 10 minutes to flush out the coolant still in the heater and elsewhere. Drain it and repeat 4 times until the water coming out of the radiator drain tap is clear.

Fill the radiator with fresh water. Warm up to operating temp and put the stuff in the radiator. Take the car for a minimum 20 minute drive the mechanic said. I did 45 minutes because I was enjoying the drive despite the steamy 30 degC heat and some traffic.

So far no leaks from the heater. I'll drive it for a week or so and then drain the water out and refill with the coolant.

It was a 4 hour job but it is done, ready for next June.

 

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My dad used to use Bars Leak a solid crumbling product for the rad to act on cooling system I think they have a larger range now. 

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1 hour ago, Hamish said:

My dad used to use Bars Leak a solid crumbling product for the rad to act on cooling system I think they have a larger range now. 

An old favourite. I used it a few times as a lad with not too good Morrie Minors, Hillman Minx, mini etc. I recall it tended to clog any small passages in the cooling system as well as the leak.

The stuff I used is metallic looking and provided by the Triumph mechanic here in a small zip lock bag. Not sure but I suspect that when it is mixed with hot water and is exposed to air it forms a metallic epoxy.

Edited by John McCormack
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Many years ago I was navigating on a rally in a Mk1 Cortina and we punctured the petrol tank coming down hard after a yump, noticed by a marshal at the stage end. We plugged the hole with chewing gum and managed to complete the rally and get home.

Ralph

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