Ian Vincent Posted November 29, 2020 Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 (edited) I have finally completed the task of replacing the rebuilt engine (and gearbox although that hasn't been rebuilt) in my TR3a and it does seem like a mammoth task, particularly when working in a single garage with minimal side clearance. And what a pig of a job to finish with, replacing the gearbox tunnel. Many years ago when I was working in Australia I remember a phrase from one of their motoring magazines that went along the lines of, "If the Poms made their cars any more difficult to fix, we wouldn't bother. We'd throw them away and buy a new one". The comment was directed at a Land Rover but it could equally have been applied to some elements of a Sidescreen car, e.g. the aforementioned tunnel. As an example, why on earth didn't the Triumph engineers make the upstand flange on the floor panels a bit taller and raise the the bolts that secure the rear end of the tunnel to the flange by say 1/2" off the floor so that you could get some sensible purchase on the bolt that you are trying to install? Not being a purist, I have replaced as many as possible of the bolts (set screws) with cap headed socket set screws so that I can hold the screw in the magnetic bit on my battery operated drill to make it easier to place and fix but it still took a good couple of hours on my knees to get it fixed all round and the carpet and trimmings fitted. Whinge over. I haven't been able to take it for a drive yet but I did make sure it all worked by sitting it on axle stands running it up through all the gears and the overdrive, so fingers crossed. Rgds Ian Edited November 29, 2020 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomMull Posted November 29, 2020 Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 I leave out the one or two screws which are too difficult to get started every time I remove the tunnel. Soon it will rely on gravity alone. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 29, 2020 Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 Well done for completing the rebuild, looking forward to hearing how it performs on the road. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted November 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 I'm not expecting a significant change in performance, just as long as the oil leaks are at least diminished. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 There was a picture floating around of a tunnel that had hinged access panels. I can't seem to find it. If anyone has done this what did you use to first seal the panel and secondly, what did you use to lock the panel down? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 On 11/29/2020 at 1:14 PM, Ian Vincent said: ...upstand flange on the floor panels... What I find is that every time I pull the gearbox out I tend to flatten the upstand in places with the weight of the box resting on it. I keep meaning to make some MDF panels to sit on the floor to the same height as the upstand, but I always forget before it is too late. Do other people have this problem? Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, David Owen said: There was a picture floating around of a tunnel that had hinged access panels. I can't seem to find it. If anyone has done this what did you use to first seal the panel and secondly, what did you use to lock the panel down? Maybe this thread above. A removable inspection plate made of aluminium sheet, held by two dzus fasteners and sealed with a thin strip of rubber. On the operation valve side by the hand brake, two additional holes allowing the valve to be accessed and removed if necessary, without the tunnel coming out. These more recent photos with the tunnel out might help. Iain I have used butyl body panel sealer to seal the tunnel back into the car. Edited January 7, 2021 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 2 hours ago, iain said: Maybe this thread above. A removable inspection plate made of aluminium sheet, held by two dzus fasteners and sealed with a thin strip of rubber. On the operation valve side by the hand brake, two additional holes allowing the valve to be accessed and removed if necessary, without the tunnel coming out. These more recent photos may with the tunnel out might help. Iain I have used butyl body panel sealer to seal the tunnel back into the car. Nice mod. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Very nice. And I have 4 extra fasteners so that is very timely. Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 6 hours ago, David Owen said: There was a picture floating around of a tunnel that had hinged access panels. I can't seem to find it. If anyone has done this what did you use to first seal the panel and secondly, what did you use to lock the panel down? Was this it David. Scroll down to the transmission tunnel bit......https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2020/04/1694/In-the-Garage-April-20 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 3 minutes ago, Drewmotty said: Was this it David. Scroll down to the transmission tunnel bit......https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2020/04/1694/In-the-Garage-April-20 Thanks Andrew, That wasn't the one but after reading the accompanying article I've changed my mind. I didn't occur to me that the tunnel would contribute tot he car's stiffness to the degree it does. I was looking to clean up this mess: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) Blimey David. It looks like a rat has chewed through it! For reference I hold my transmission tunnel door closed with a tie wrap. I don’t bother to seal it although it could just be taped over as access isn’t required very often. Edited January 7, 2021 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) 40 minutes ago, Drewmotty said: Blimey David. It looks like a rat has chewed through it! For reference I hold my transmission tunnel door closed with a tie wrap. I don’t bother to seal it although it could just be taped over as access isn’t required very often. It does. Thanks for the input. I'll clean up the edges and put a hinged flap over it once I have the new gearbox top I am waiting for. Then I can make sure I can get to the RLB dipstick I ordered. I will see if I can use a DZUS fastener to secure the bottom. I like that idea. What would you use around the edges of the flap to seal it? Some kind of rubber with a slot for the edge of the flap? Edited January 7, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 9, 2021 Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 On 1/7/2021 at 11:05 PM, David Owen said: It does. Thanks for the input. I'll clean up the edges and put a hinged flap over it once I have the new gearbox top I am waiting for. Then I can make sure I can get to the RLB dipstick I ordered. I will see if I can use a DZUS fastener to secure the bottom. I like that idea. What would you use around the edges of the flap to seal it? Some kind of rubber with a slot for the edge of the flap? These people might help with fasteners. https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/menus/ha/fast.html Yes some type of rubber stick on or clip on would me ideal as a seal I am lazy and seal my tunnel edges with gaffer tape (duck tape) Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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