New 3A owner, needs Mechanic Advice.

[Paul M]

Hi, just got my TR3a delivered and looking great but got a water leak!

not being very mechanically minded I am looking for a recommendation for a mechanic in the Rutland area who knows these cars?

any suggestions?

cheers 

Paul

 

[Hamish]

Paul

welcome to the forum. 
 

if you got the car from a dealer I suggest you get them to sort it out. Or if too far away they sort out a local repair for you. 
 

H

others will be along with local repairers recommendations for you.

[Paul M]

Thanks Hamish

I bought it privately and would like to get to know a local recommended place to get it serviced properly etc.

 

cheers

paul

[John Morrison]

Good morning Paul, welcome to our forum, and congratulations on buying a great car.

I've taken the liberty to alter this thread title to better suit your needs, if there is  a problem, I'll soon switch it back.

John.

[John McCormack]

1 hour ago, Paul M said:

Hi, just got my TR3a delivered and looking great but got a water leak!

not being very mechanically minded I am looking for a recommendation for a mechanic in the Rutland area who knows these cars?

any suggestions?

cheers 

Paul

 

As these cars need pretty constant attention it might be a good opportunity to do some exploring. Fluid leaks are usually a pretty straightforward fix.

[Wayne Scott]

H Paul,

 

Great to hear from a fellow Rutlander - I have my optional MOTs at Halls Garage, Morton, Bourne. They are an MG specialist but know all British sports cars well. 

https://www.hallsgarage.co.uk/

Also - no personal experience but we have RH Classics on our patch at Melton: https://www.rhclassics.co.uk/ 

Post-COVID - make sure you get along to Camb Followers local group meets, Tracy is doing a great job there and also Leicester Group who are also very vibrant and active:

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/camb-followers 

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/leicestershire 

They will doubtless have many more local contacts to share with members. 

[Ian Vincent]

The most common areas for a water leak in my experience (apart from the radiator) are at the hose connections, principally the supply hose from the bottom of the radiator up to the water pump.  This is made up of two kinked rubber (or silicon) hoses and a length of steel tube.  Getting the hoses to seal on the steel tube can be an issue, you need decent hose clips.

I'm sure others will be along soon to suggest the water pump etc., but touch wood that hasn't been a problem.

Rgds Ian

[RogerH]

Hi Paul,

TRGB are not that far from you at Somersham. They have a workshop but don;t know how far they go.

https://www.trgb.co.uk/

Roger

[iain]

Welcome to the great world of sidescreen  ownership.

Have you found a puddle on the floor? If yes, where in relation to the hoses, rad etc.

Are you sure you are not over filling the rad expansion tank and it’s just getting pushed out of the overflow. When you open the rad cap, you should just see water on the floor of the radiator extension...no more.

Good luck

Iain

[Andrew Smith]

Simple things first, so don't chase the fault or pay someone to sort a simple fix for you - where's the water collecting under the car and trace it back to a source.  If you've been out driving the car, then parked it up and then found a pool of water under the radiator (left side from the front) then it could be something as simple like too much water in the rad.  There should only be about 1/2" of water in the radiator  (expenasion) neck, anymore than this and it will overflow through overflow tube onto the ground.

Welcome to the forum, you'll find lots of useful help from like minded enthusiasts on here - enjoy your 3A and consider joining the club if you haven't done so already.

Cheers, Andrew

Edit: it seems Iain and I were replying at the same time, although my fingers must be slower.............

Edited November 29, 2020 by Andrew Smith

[Paul M]

thanks everyone for the welcome and the information. I have found the issue  - drain tap on block appears to be the issue and have spoken to previous owner who said he tried to drain and refill before delivery but couldn't get the tap to open and I think he has damaged it in the process.

I have a new one on order and then will see if I can do it or I will look into one of the recommendations to sort for me but hopefully this will not be a big issue  

[RobTR3]

If you've bought from one of the usual TR suppliers, test it before you fit. I bought a replacement engine block tap some time ago and it leaked through its shut off valve, absolutely useless, I sent it back for a refund. Stand it on it's end with the tap closed and put a small drop of water at the end that screws into the engine, after a few minutes see if it's leaked past the valve. In the end I fitted a standard plumbing brass blanking plug with the thread wrapped in plumbers tape. Never leaked after that. Sorry, can't remember the thread size.

Rob

[Ian Vincent]

Alternatively go to a ship's chandler and buy a marine one.

Rgds Ian

[Paul M]

thanks for the tips. will give it a test. I have ordered it from Moss so hopefully ok

[Mick Forey]

Welcome to the forum Paul. I also bought a new block drain and it leaked despite my best efforts to get it to seal. I removed it, cleaned it and filled it with silicon from the block side and replaced it. Perfect, not a drop of a leak. Easy to drain the block; just remove the valve.

Mick

[Motorsport Mickey]

If you actually want the valve to work (especially on a new one) strip the valve removing springs etc and "lap" the the valve body into the core with grinding paste. About 10 mins work will give you a matching mirror image fit, replace springs washers pins etc and try it...no leak.

Of course unless you drain the block twice a year (that's what they used to do, drain the block add antifreeze in winter, drain the block remove antifreeze for summer, replace with water only) by using it it will gum up again, use it or lose it.

Mick Richards