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Moss spin on oil filer adaptor- again!


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Hi Guys,

Fitted a Moss Spin on oil filter adaptor to my 4A. Just undertaken the first engine start after rebuild. All runs well but noticed a small leak from the adaptor, dam it!

I know this has been discussed before and a modification to the adaptor has been written up by a forum member (can't find it now) to overcome this problem involving some machining of the two parts of the adaptor. 

Luckily I printed the description before I fitted the the adaptor but decided not to modify it but fit as provided, mistake!  I am now about to remove the filter housing together with the filter and undertake the modification as described. I have a lathe so no problem.

Questions -

As the filter housing is above the oil level in the sump, can I assume that the oil spillage when removing will be minimal if I do not drain the sump.

The filter fitted is from Moss, if I have to replace it as it becomes damaged, what  filters can I get  available from local motor factors rather than buy from Moss, with their silly postage cost, that would be compatible?

Thanks 

Rich

 

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An excellent oil filter look-up facility: https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterLookup.aspx Just enter the number written on the filter and this will tell you the Wix equivalent which are available from most motor factors.

Mick

Edited by Mick Forey
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I think Bob's article provides some excellent advice. Last year I installed the Moss spin-on kit, but not modified as he suggests. I had already removed the filter head in order to give it a good cleaning and an inspection and found that it was much easier to install the adaptor per the Moss instructions with it all clean and shining on the bench, in particular I was able to carefully install and seal a new O-ring and then torque the adaptor nut to the rather low value of 11-12 ft-lbs using a small beam torque wrench. It all went back on the engine and no leaks. So far so good.

However, upon doing the first oil change I found the filter ( a Wix 51516) too tight to be removed by hand. When I used a strap wrench I saw to my horror that the adaptor was starting to rotate as well. I tightened it back up snug and resorted to using two strap wrenches- one to hold the adaptor ring tight and the other to remove the filter. I was lucky in that no leaks subsequently developed but if they do I will follow the article and JB weld the parts together. 

Andy

635-828.pdf

Edited by Andy303
correct Wix filter number
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Hi Guys,

Thanks for the reply's. I have now modified the Moss spin on adaptor as Bob's  download.

I had the same experience as you Andy when I tried to remove the filter, the whole adaptor came undone, and if I  wasn't going to take it apart anyway to modify it, not sure it would have sealed again with a replacement filter? So glad I have under taken the modification to overcome this problem in the future and stop the annoying drip!

Great list of alternative filters, should be able to get one locally.

Thanks

Rich

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When I tried the spin on conversion I had the same problem of the filter coming undone with the adaptor. My experience with the conversion also involved a leak on our newly block paved drive, SWMBO was not happy! I sold the conversion kit on and reverted to the factory canister set up. I have a pit at home so no sweat to change the filter.

Tim

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Had the same problem with my spin on oil filter adapter but lost all the oil from newly rebuilt engine after running it for 2500 miles, ordered new parts fitted and did another 700miles before putting the the car in the garage for three weeks, (doing bathroom conversion). Had to move the car out of the garage yesterday and no oil on the garage floor, left car running for a while come to move car back into the garage and there’s oil on the drive, looks like I will have to do Bobs conversion to stop this happening again. 
 

Has anyone JB welded the parts together?

Mike Redrose group 

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Something I forget to mention was that my TR4A is late production (April, 1967) and came with a Tecalemit filter head which uses the thinner O-ring. As this often seems to be a problem I sourced and installed an earlier Purolator filter head. It uses a thicker o-ring and I believe that helps reduce leakage (fingers crossed).

Andy

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3 hours ago, brenda said:

Had the same problem with my spin on oil filter adapter but lost all the oil from newly rebuilt engine after running it for 2500 miles, ordered new parts fitted and did another 700miles before putting the the car in the garage for three weeks, (doing bathroom conversion). Had to move the car out of the garage yesterday and no oil on the garage floor, left car running for a while come to move car back into the garage and there’s oil on the drive, looks like I will have to do Bobs conversion to stop this happening again. 
 

Has anyone JB welded the parts together?

Mike Redrose group 

Mike that’s terrible. You put all that time and money into the engine only to be let down by a  critical part supplied by a 3rd party. 
what is wrong with the part that the manufacturer can’t fix !!!

terrible !!!!

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I think the reason the standard item from Moss, or anybody else is made that way is to allow for slight variations in the dimensions of the filter head.

The sliding collar will always tighten up on both rubber seals. The problem is that the upper seal does now not  get changed when a new filter is fitted.

My modification requires careful measurement of the individual head prior to machining which of course the manufacturers cannot do.

Bob.

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Just got a new spin on oil filter adapter and this one is different than the one I have on, this new one is a one peace unit looks like the bolt holds all the unit on, my old one is in two bits and the oil filter pushes the adapter plate onto the large rubber seal. 
 

Mike Redrose group 

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That looks similar to the one the PO fitted to my car. Unfortunately I don’t know the brand. However the pressure housing says Purolator, so maybe the whole thing came as a kit.

Jim

DA66E823-D8D6-4794-8B39-26878B1BF9C6.jpeg

Edited by Tr4aJim
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Morning all, I may of found the problem with the oil leak, this morning I came to remove the oil filter and the adapter plate spun round as well, when I installed it I did torque it to 12 lbs, and only put the filter on hand tight. As I have a new one may as well put it on, did a dry run first to see if all fitted, there were some slight differences in measurements but not a lot.  All fitted and car has been running for about 30 min and no oil. The only thing I did not do last time was the put blue loctite on the adapter bolt do you think it could of loosened with the vibration?

Mike Redrose group 

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C28B3900-F96B-4136-851E-15A25AEA6838.jpeg

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No, I think that the outer part was always free to rotate as it is not clamped to the inner part or to the filter head.

Your new one should not suffer from that problem.

Bob.

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Hi Mike, where does the copper pipe that is heading towards the filter end up? can't quite see because of the hose. Reason I mention it is that on my TR5 a few years ago I was using the same size filter and it was very adjacent to a fuel pipe heading to the metering unit. after several months of use and whilst finishing a run at Aysgarth Falls Hotel, My car spluttered and coasted into the car park. It transpired that the filter had been rubbing against said pipe and had eventually caused a small hole to which the remaining fuel in the car (not much fortunately) had exited. Having repaired pipe with some high pressure hose supplied by Phil Leach (Thank you) and filled up with some fuel supplied by Ian Landon (Thankyou) I was able to complete the very enjoyable weekend.

Just a word of caution in case on your 4 it is very close to pipe also.

Paul

image.png

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18 minutes ago, Harbottle said:

Hi Mike, where does the copper pipe that is heading towards the filter end up? can't quite see because of the hose. Reason I mention it is that on my TR5 a few years ago I was using the same size filter and it was very adjacent to a fuel pipe heading to the metering unit. after several months of use and whilst finishing a run at Aysgarth Falls Hotel, My car spluttered and coasted into the car park. It transpired that the filter had been rubbing against said pipe and had eventually caused a small hole to which the remaining fuel in the car (not much fortunately) had exited. Having repaired pipe with some high pressure hose supplied by Phil Leach (Thank you) and filled up with some fuel supplied by Ian Landon (Thankyou) I was able to complete the very enjoyable weekend.

Just a word of caution in case on your 4 it is very close to pipe also.

Paul

 

Different system altogether on the 4 cylinder, the copper pipe your referring to is the brake pipe.

Stuart.

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