Phil H 4 Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Having just driven for 2 hours through freezing fog with the hood down...that's another story I appreciated how ineffective the heater was / is. Essentially I don't have any heat at all, was OK'ish last year. Suggestions where to start appreciated. Thanks Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Hi Phil, is your heater valve on the head fully open - the original type is quite useless and can be closed when you don;t knowit. You may have an airlock in the heater matrix remove both hoses (in the engine bay) and connect to garden hose and give it a blasting. When reconnecting ensure you do not put the air bubble back in. I assume you do have air flowing through the heater matrix to your feet. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Phil My heater valve was completely blocked allowing nothing through changed to the Everco type now gets very warm Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted November 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Hi Rog, Heater value is in the fully open position. No hot air to my feet ( difficult to tell with hood down and a blanket over my legs ) but coming through the side dash vents. Fan working OK. I will try the garden hose tomorrow, if that doesn't work should i replace the heater valve ...what type is best. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted November 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Chris, Is that dash out etc to replace Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 If your car is a CP, make sure you have the flap open to allow the airflow, it seems a little counterintuitive but it does work with the heater. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted November 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Hi Ian, Yes it's a CP, i hadn't appreciated that it would get hot air through, tells how many times i've used it in the winter. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Hi Phil The heater valve is located at the back of the cylinder head easy to remove check once engine warm if the hose gets hot first obviously with control inside on warm I would also check the distribution control cable do this by operating whilst looking at the flap on bottom of heater unit in the car from either the drivers or passenger foot well sounds like it will be the valve on the head as other say its not a good design Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 50 years of debris completely blocked the matrix on my heater, might be worth dropping an inspection camera in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 1 hour ago, Phil H 4 said: Having just driven for 2 hours through freezing fog with the hood down...that's another story I appreciated how ineffective the heater was / is. Essentially I don't have any heat at all, was OK'ish last year. Suggestions where to start appreciated. Thanks Phil What about keeping all tools stored and just touch the hoses under the dashboard with your hands for a first test? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted November 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Thanks all. Will advise the outcome, may be benificial to others with heater issues. Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted November 26, 2020 Report Share Posted November 26, 2020 Marco’s advice is spot on to get a decent diagnosis.... feel the hoses to/from the heater valve and the heater box. You should feel an increase/decrease in the temp of the hoses when altering the valve position (assuming it isn’t blocked so badly that it hardly alters) As mentioned, be sure to have the outside air scuttle-flap open otherwise the matrix won’t be getting any airflow. if you get to the point of flushing the matrix and hoses with a garden hose be careful not to crank the pressure up too high - you could damage the matrix. ....... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 27, 2020 Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 (edited) A very simple rule: most problems are solved by watching and thinking about - and not with tools in your hands. Ciao, Marco Edited November 27, 2020 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted November 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2020 Flat tyre and roll bar installation delayed investigation... will revert. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2021 So back to the heater.... Looks to be the valve although it looks pretty new. Reading another thread which highlights valve issues other members have had it steered me in the right direction. Thanks Guys.. At the risk of repetition ! I have ordered Four seasons Everco 74648 through Rock Auto part £22.59 plus FedEx and VAT £39.39 ( plus duty tbc) Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 Valve arrived today 4 days from order, great service from over the pond...and no duty paid. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2021 Starting on the cooling system today, despite a backwash being part of the service carried out by a TR specialist 3 years ago, findings were not good. The heater valve as you can see was totally blocked despite looking reasonably new. Having flushed the system every which way with cold water I'm now at the stage of adding the Speed flush. The recommendations are having added the cleaner and topped up the water, fast idle for 10 minutes, drain, flush and refill with antifreeze / water mix. Would it be preferable to leave the cleaner in for a day or so, start up again to give a good stir and then drain or would this be detrimental. I have presently removed the thermostat and have silicone hoses. Direction on the best procedure appreciated. Thanks Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 21, 2021 Report Share Posted January 21, 2021 When i looked into flushing out the cooling system on my 6 i found that Holts offered a two part cleaning product which seemed to get good reviews i used this and ran part 1 for a couple of hours of driving, a LOT of **** came out when i flushed afterwards! this was 2013 and the cooling / heating system has worked well ever since and coolant stays blue now. Not sure that helps you Phil but though i’d share experience! steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2021 Thanks Steve, I think the Holts two part has been replaced with Holts - Speedflush. I'll put it in run and drain. I bought a two pack so can always repeat to make sure. Thanks Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 21, 2021 Report Share Posted January 21, 2021 Good luck Phil, let us know how it goes! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted January 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 Flushed, new valve fitted, replaced thermostat and coolant bung. Hardest part was removing the extension to separate the valve, a couple of soakings of Blaster release agent did the trick. Now have heat in the cabin, hopefully not too long until i can give it a road test.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 Excellent Phil i’m hoping mine will arrive next week as i’m planning for TR garage action next weekend :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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