pfenlon Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 2 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Pete, I did the same. Two straps welded across. I didn't go for the studs but tapped 4 x M6 holes into the straps and screwed the fan to the straps. Roger I should have gone for M6 but M5's will do I hope. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 Hi Pete, I can't imagine the fan pulling off 4 x M5 studs. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 36 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Pete, I can't imagine the fan pulling off 4 x M5 studs. Roger it'll be a hell of a fan if it does. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted December 1, 2020 Report Share Posted December 1, 2020 2 hours ago, RogerH said: fan pulling off 4 x M5 studs. Sounds like a porn film subtitle! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Opie Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Great topic. I have a question. For owners that ditched the mechanical fan altogether, how do you move the crankshaft to adjust intake and outtake valves? I have always grabbed my strong mechanical fan blades and pulled upwards. With an electric fan that option is out. Opie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfox4 Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Socket and ratchet does it for me Cheers, Alf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Opie Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 To SilverFox, Ooops. I should have known that. I will look into installing one. I read other threads here that you gain a couple of horsepower also without the metal fan. And Kastner's balance issue w/o metal only applies speeds approaching redline? Opie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 10 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Does the Silver Shadow have a viscous coupling between pump and fan? My memory says the Shadow fan is more like a propeller! Yes, this is an early Shadow with the QE2 propellor... later cars had a plastic multi-blade fan and viscous coupling, I used that shroud with the 4 blade metal fan...works good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Here's a nice example of a proper Fan Shroud: http://trippstr6.blogspot.com/2012/09/radiator-time.html It is sealed around the fan, so the fan sucks air through the whole rad core, not just the area directly in front of the fan ...this has a big positive effect on total cooling - the whole rad area has good airflow, not just a circle in the centre. Note the TR specialists sell things they call shrouds...but they are just ducts..they dont align to the sweep of the fan, so they dont create the required pressure differential over the whole core. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 I take the plugs out, then put a socket with a stubby ratchet onto the alternator pulley securing nut. it does grip enough if you press the fan belt to be a bit tighter. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Opie - like Bob, I remove plugs but cannot get socket on ratchet down there as Revotec fan and other stuff in the way. I use an open-ended wench on the end on the crankshaft (whoops, not many of those around here - actually a wrench or spanner). Tedious, but with plugs removed it's not too difficult. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 If your poor little brain has a memory issue I would suggest not using a spanner on the crank bolt head. If you forget to take it off and try to start, something will go wrong !!!! I always use a socket and ratchet. It is a little awkward but do'able. If you forget to take it of (as if !!) it will simply run against the ratchet spring. Better still is to attach a red string/flag etc to the spanner/ratchet and hang over the wing so you will see it is still there. It may also help finding the ratchet down the road when you drive off (as if (again) ) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Some years ago I sourced a ratchet spanner for the crank bolt, no access trouble at all. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 I have a Spal motorsport spec fan on mine, which is controlled via my ECU. It it has been installed since around 2015, and be completely reliable. Nice piece of kit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 In case you are interested in my other car's radiator cooling provision and reason for my above comments. [url=https://postimages.org/][img]https://i.postimg.cc/NF8gQnV0/Grill-2.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://postimages.org/][img]https://i.postimg.cc/K8GY8Zmh/Radiator-Cowling-2.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://postimages.org/][img]https://i.postimg.cc/XJTSq9CL/New-Radiator-1.jpg[/img][/url] (That's a 5l TRV V8 in a se7en.) Observant posters will note I have a two way rad. A baffle plate in the center of the rad header ensure flow is in top left, down to bottom of rad and up and out at top right. Improves cooling efficiency no end as otherwise water only flows from top left to botton right in a diagonal route hinted at above. In effect however big a fan you have, you only use a small amount of the rad to cool the water. Top marks for the shrouds above. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted December 2, 2020 Report Share Posted December 2, 2020 Oops. Plus this photo does not show the baffle plate weld, sorry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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